2000 210 Sea-Ray with Merc 5.0 efi

xxpilot

New Member
Apr 11, 2010
25
New Berlin, WI
Boat Info
2011 Sea-Ray 250 SLX 8.2L Mag HO, Bravo 3x, Bravo 3XR 27p stainless props - 2015 F-350 Diesel
Engines
8.2L Mag HO - Bravo IIIx Drives - 27p Bravo3XR props
Have owned this boat since new. Never had a problem before, always winterized and stored in my heated garage. Had the boat out last weekend for the first time all year. Ran perfect as usual.

Took it out yesterday for the 2nd time. Wouldn't start. Turns over great. Pulled the flame arrester off and no fuel is coming out of the injectors. (boat has plenty of fuel) and not getting spark either.

Poured a little gas into the trottle bodies and not even a hint of starting, checked for spark and none.

Acts just like the boat would act if the kill switch was activated. (turns over fast, not even a hint of starting)

Any ideas? All fuses under the dash are fine, not sure what fuses are in the engine compartment that might have blown.

Will take it to the dealer this week but thinking its probably something simple, thought I'd ask here.
 
I would also say the fuel pump; however, the no spark thing has me thinking it's more then that. Is there no spark from the distributor? Or are the plugs sparking but wet?
 
Do you have a fuel injected motor? If so when you turn the key do you hear the fuel pump pressurize the fuel system? If you can't hear any pressurization then it may be a fuse or the pump itself. If it pressurizes, use the neutral lock out button on your shifter and advance the throttle about half way to see if it will start that way. I only ask because if you have a TBI or MPI motor the Idle Air Controller may have failed in which case you will get the engine to crank but it will not start. However, this problem seems more prevalent on MPI engines rather than TBI engines.

If you have a carbureted engine then none of this applies.

Dave
 
Its fuel injected.

When I key on, I do hear the fuel pump pressurize like normal.

I also advanced the throttle and tried to start it that way, nothing. When I pulled the flame arrester off and looked while someone else cranked it over there is no fuel coming from either fuel injector. Checked for spark and no spark either. Its like the motor is getting power to run the starter started, but no power to the spark plugs or the fuel injection system.

It turns over fast but not even a hint of starting. Very uniform sound, no firing at all, no "almost" starting or anything.

Sounds exactly like the way the engine sounds when I try to start it with the kill switch activated. (but of course i checked and the kill switch is in the run position.)

Oh well... I'll take it to the dealer in the morning. I'll post up what I find out.
 
Last year one of my motors would not start after using the week before. It turned out to be the coil. My boat is the same year with the 5.0 efi
 
It sounds like the mercruiser ignition sensor under the distributor cap has gone bad on you.

Below is an example of how to test for a No spark from a ignition sensor. Even though this link is not for your style EFI engine it's about the same test that would be in the service manual for your engine.
http://forums.iboats.com/showpost.php?p=2302459&postcount=3

See number 6 in this link below that may have went bad on you.
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=809500%2099&ivar=images/COMMON/14151.png&inbr=4856&bnbr=80&bdesc=Distributor+And+Ignition+Components

While cranking the engine over does the RPM gauge move up to 300-400 RPM's?
 
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stuckinforward, yes it has a lanyard kill switch. I did check that and it is in the run position (although perhaps the switch went bad?) I even jiggled the wires behind the switch to make sure there wasn't just a loose connection there.

Boat Tech, I think you might be right... When I checked spark I checked it coming out of the distributor, not going in.

If that sensor was bad, would the FI system still be squirting fuel in to the throttle bodies when I attempt to start our would that problem prevent the fuel injectors from activating also?

I don't recall what the reading on the tachometer was when I tried to start it.

Boat is at the dealer this AM. I'll post up as soon as I find out.

Thanks for the replies.
 
Boat Tech, you were dead on... It was the ignition sensor!
 
Boat Tech, you were dead on... It was the ignition sensor!
Thank you for the update, Glad the dealer was able to get you in and out so quick., Sometimes that is hard to this time a year.
Did they look busy?
 
its embarrasing with the lanyard thing, especially when you do it for a living and you need to be towed in because the clip comes off, ask me how i know
eric
 
Thank you for the update, Glad the dealer was able to get you in and out so quick., Sometimes that is hard to this time a year.
Did they look busy?

Its still at the dealer. They had the sensor in stock, but also said they needed to order the "cap and rotor" too? (does that sound plausible?) (wondered why they can't reuse the old one) That they are waiting on. I should be floating again by Friday. (which is fine since I only boat on Saturday afternoons usually)

They were a little busy recommissioning boats for the year, but being early April in Wisconsin, most people aren't getting their boats out yet so I think I beat the rush. I'm hard core, I boat anytime its dry and above 45 degrees or so. Last year I boated mid-march through the very last weekend in November.

For most people in Wisconsin, season starts mid-late may and ends early-mid september.
 
Its still at the dealer. They had the sensor in stock, but also said they needed to order the "cap and rotor" too? (does that sound plausible?) (wondered why they can't reuse the old one) That they are waiting on. I should be floating again by Friday. (which is fine since I only boat on Saturday afternoons usually)

They were a little busy recommissioning boats for the year, but being early April in Wisconsin, most people aren't getting their boats out yet so I think I beat the rush. I'm hard core, I boat anytime its dry and above 45 degrees or so. Last year I boated mid-march through the very last weekend in November.

For most people in Wisconsin, season starts mid-late may and ends early-mid september.
Yes normaly you do need a new rotor because of the way you half to pull the rotor off the shaft by using one or sometimes two big screwdrivers to pry up the rotor, Because they use blue loctite on the bottom side of the rotor to hold the rotor down to keep the rotor from floating up while spinning.
You Normaly do bend/Damage the rotor blades while prying up, So it not worth using the old rotor, As far as the cap goes, I'm sure it was time for a new one because You should be changing it out every year or two or around 100 hours or so anyways. If it has any build up of stuff or worn down on the tips on the inside of the cap then it's time for a new cap.

You might want to think about inquiring about the sparkplugs as well while it's there just to be safe.:wink:

But don't worry about the sparkplug wires, They last a very long time in most cases.
 
I have the same boat and had an issue a few weeks ago, apparently I had burnt my pickup ignition coil, I thought it was the fuel pump because it wasn't getting any gas, but a friend looked at it, who is a mechanic and helped me replace the pickup ignition coil, and I was good to go............hope this helps.
 
Am having the same exact problem ax XXPilot with my 5.7 EFI Bravo engine (yr 2000 serial # 0L608377) ! My mechanic did the same test as mentioned in a link in this post and it resulted as the ignition module. He is still not 100% sure about it though !

Does the ignition module in my engine has anything to do with the ECM ? Im really not at all technical and dont have much knowledge in marine engines so if someone can explain or elaborate about this thing it would help a lot.
 
Am having the same exact problem ax XXPilot with my 5.7 EFI Bravo engine (yr 2000 serial # 0L608377) ! My mechanic did the same test as mentioned in a link in this post and it resulted as the ignition module. He is still not 100% sure about it though !

Does the ignition module in my engine has anything to do with the ECM ? Im really not at all technical and dont have much knowledge in marine engines so if someone can explain or elaborate about this thing it would help a lot.
If he did the test like in that link and it came up bad, Then it sounds like it's time to put a new sensor in and see what happens.

The ECM is a control module for the EFI system.

The ignition sensor under the cap basically just helps fire the coil.

Dose your mechanic work on boats?

You will want to order mercruiser part number 90-8613271 - SERVICE MANUAL #24 to help you or and your mechanic out better.

Your sensor part number for your engine is 87-892150Q02 $64.92

Good luck with it.
 
Thanks for your reply BoatTech ! I just downloaded that manual # 24 on my netbook ! My mechanic does work on boats but he is not really into in EFI and MPI engines :( since those type of engines are not so common in Malta !

Tomorrow we are going to do the test again and also try a brand new OEM Ignition Sensor. What I need to know is where is or what is the Ignition Module of my engine because my mechanic is saying that its part of the ECM :huh: I just dont know anything about this.. Neither the parts diagram of my engine does not even give an Ignition Module for it !
 
Thanks for your reply BoatTech ! I just downloaded that manual # 24 on my netbook ! My mechanic does work on boats but he is not really into in EFI and MPI engines :( since those type of engines are not so common in Malta !

Tomorrow we are going to do the test again and also try a brand new OEM Ignition Sensor. What I need to know is where is or what is the Ignition Module of my engine because my mechanic is saying that its part of the ECM :huh: I just dont know anything about this.. Neither the parts diagram of my engine does not even give an Ignition Module for it !
Sorry, I see what your asking now.:smt115
On your engine the Ignition Module is the ECM, Thoes two sets of wires coming out of the distributor go to the ECM.

The test with striking the purple/white wire that was in thoes links still do apply as a test to a point, But you should not follow that link, You need to follow what's in service manual 24, Page 5G-43.

You will want to study section 5G of service manual 24, It will help you through this.

See page 5G-39 thru 5G-43 for example.

Also look at page 5G-20, 5G-30.:thumbsup:

Good luck with it.
 

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