1990 270DA Rain Water Leak - HELP

Dear all,
Thank you very much for all your help.
Went to the boat today. Once again water present in the storage compartment below eletric panel. Pluged the outside of the anchor locker drain hole and filled it with water in the inside. Water level was stable with no water loss. No gelcoat cracks. Just wondering...at the moment my side windows rain deflectors are not installed. Do you guys think it may be the reason for the water entering in my cabin? Regards.
 
Dear Pirate Lady,
Thank you very much for your help.
I have attached a picture of what I call a side window rain deflector. Sorry if i am not correct!
Regards.
 

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Ok...maybe drain vent cover will the right name? Sorry...
 
Dear Pirate Lady,
Thank you very much for your interest and help!
Yesterday, after a long long battle I think that I found the origin of the leak...a really tiny gap in the sealant between rub rail and gelcoat near port side window!! The problem was that water was entering in the cabin distant from the outside point of entry! Had to remove fabric and foam to expose the fiberglass and use paper roll to try to identify the leak! Sealed the gap and no more water in the cabin!
Attached are some pictures. Let´s hope that problem is solved...
Thanks very much for all help received!
Without ClubSeaRay.com it would be impossible for me to be successful!!
Best regards,
Tiago
 

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OK, that's good you found where it was leaking in!

But... did you only use sealant where the rubrail meets the gelcoat? Meaning, if you didn't remove the rubrail completely, you still haven't correctly sealed the leak. What was done is only a bandaid (short-lived repair). The place where the rubrail touches the gelcoat actually does NOT need any sealant. The "real" leaking point is beneath/under the rubrail - either where the deck/hull joint is and/or the screw penetration. The proper way to fix is to completely remove the rubrail and all screws. Then apply new (use the good stuff) sealant, along with sealant on each screw thread. For best results, go all the way to/around the bow since the water could be leaking in anywhere up there then travelling before leaking inside.

This may sound like a lot of work, but it isn't that bad. Plus, at 3 decades old, it's overdue.
 
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Dear Lazy Daze,
Thank you very much for your comment. So much information!
In fact I have just sealed where the water was entering. I am planning to remove the rubrail during summer. But i am not sure if I can do the job by myself...In some places, mostly near the bow, the rubrail is not even touching the gelcoat...I would say there are several 2mm gaps between the rubrail and the deck...
Do I need to completely remove the rub rail or I just need to "separate it" enough to apply the sealant? Do you think that I will be able to reuse the rubber seal that covers the screws?
Sorry for so many questions. I love my boat and I do want to keep it!
Best regards!
 
You're welcome!

So, there are two parts to a rubrail. There's the vinyl part that touches the boat, called the rubrail. Then there's the rubrail "insert" - in your case, it's a vinyl (the one you referred to as rubber) insert. Some boats use a stainless insert, some use a piece of rope.

But, the rubrail actually has nothing to do with sealing water out, so those gaps mean nothing. It's the screws that hold the rubrail on that need sealing, along with the deck to hull joint. Your deck fits over the hull like a shoebox lid.

So... yes, you need to take it all the way off. And, yes, most likely the vinyl insert will be re-usable. A rubber mallet will help pop it back in. You may want to make some reference marks before disassembly.
 
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Dear Lazy Daze,
Might be wrong but i am almost sure that in my boat the rubrail part that touches the deck is made from metal (aluminium?). I am afraid that when trying to remove it I might damage it...let´s hope for the best!
Is it a bad job only to remove all the screws that hold the rubrail and reseal them along with screw threads?
Regards.
 
No, you could be correct - especially going back to '91.

Just have a helper so you don't kink the rubrail as you remove it.
 
Well I may as well jump in. I am having same issues in different areas though. Starting to think this is a common issue for 270DA's of those years. Mine is a nightmare right now. I'm literally reupholstering the entire cockpit area, made new plywood panels that I blame on years of previous owners not replacing leaky canvas. I caulked a suspected leak near the radar arch did the same thing using tubing on a caulk gun. Still didn't solve all my leaks. Major problem is I get a pool of water in the aft cabin starboard rear corner. Sucks cause thats where my son sleeps. I do have a leak up front and did indeed suspect the rub rail......would like to thank you all for the posts on here because I think you're pointing me in the right direction looks like I have to rip off my rub rail and reseal next year. Too late this year boats in the water. Guess I'll have to check out the windows too.
 
Other projects anyone know alot about the cockpit panel? and where I can get some schematics? I am literally replacing every switch and push button breaker. Can't get the wipers to work, though I never use them but would like them to work if I can help it. The major piss off is the instrument panel won't light up. I replaced the breaker but am about to replace the dimmer switch anyone ever have an issue with that? I definitely overpaid for this boat last year thats what I get for rush looking at it. She's quite the turd though it is what it is and I'll get through it. I havn't even gotten into the trim tab issue and the engines yet......Also disregard profile pic thats my old sea ray.
 
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