1989 280 - Good Auto Windlass Question

icewoz

New Member
Oct 10, 2004
19
Lake St. Clair, Michigan
Boat Info
Boatless right now, but interested in a 1998 370 Sundancer
Engines
none
Can anyone tell me if there is an emergency release to let the line out of a Good Automatic Windlass?

I can't get mine to go up or down, it just clicks when you move the switch. Anyone have any idea's what may be causing this?

In any case, I'd like to use the anchor, but can't get it to release the line.

Thanks!!!
 
icewoz said:
Can anyone tell me if there is an emergency release to let the line out of a Good Automatic Windlass?

I can't get mine to go up or down, it just clicks when you move the switch. Anyone have any idea's what may be causing this?

In any case, I'd like to use the anchor, but can't get it to release the line.

Thanks!!!

no-there is not
there is 2 kinds of of Good windlasses
If your has ATF stamped on housing it is FREE FALL windlass "F" letter is for free fall "A" for line size
There is aluminum guide over line inside windlass - this guide can break and jam rope, or there is screw missing on side of windlass holding that guide in place - those screws are known to vibrate out.
Check for any empty holes on housing to be sure that no screws are missing. Also those windlasses are sensitive to quality of rope, but usually on worn rope they drop down but cannot be pulled up.
 
Thanks for reply. I was at the boat today and didn't see any screws missing. I'm wondering if it's worth pulling the top off to see if the plastic piece you mentioned is broken.
 
icewoz said:
Thanks for reply. I was at the boat today and didn't see any screws missing. I'm wondering if it's worth pulling the top off to see if the plastic piece you mentioned is broken.

you can take top off but do it slowly.
There are gears and one compartment (the one with gears) is filled with oil. Gasket probably will give some troubles when you try to take pieces apart. Once you remove all hex head screws holding top cover use flat screwdriver to pry cover out a little on each side
Piece is aluminum. Inside you will see spring loaded clutch - it can go bad too. You can always send winch to manufacturer for repair.
http://www.goodwindlass.com/
 
Good does a very nice job or reconditioning their windlass if you send it to them. They can also supply the correct replacement rode.
 
I just had Good send me a new motor for exactly the same problem. Thirty minutes later I was back in business for under $200.
 
Did you send them the motor? Is it difficult to remove? Can I just remove it from underneath, or do I have to take the entire contraption off? Do I need to call them? Did you have a mechanic or anyone verify that that was the problem?

Thanks for your reply.

Steve
 
Call them up to get some guidance. I had the stripping arm break on one on my last boat. The rode was actually stuck in the unit and I could not get it out. At their suggestion I unbolted the entire unit which actually is not that hard to do, removed the anchor and then UPS'ed them the entire mess, including the 200' of line. It came back in a week in perfect working order with the line recoiled on a spool and a new gasket to install it. I bolted in back in and did not have another problem with it for the 5 remaining years that I owned the boat. One the same subject I would only get the rode from them if you need to replace it. The unit is sensative to the proper line size and type. I have another Good unit on my 370 and it works perfectly, and get a good work out almost every weekend of the summer. As soon as it give me any fits, off it will come, except this time I can drive it them since I now live in NJ.
 
Thanks for the info.

My line is stuck in there now.

I called and left a message and sent an email to Good, and have gotten no response. How did you get to talk to them?
 
Icewoz, if you can verify that it is just the motor, as in my case, they are not repairable according to Good. I gave them the model and serial number off the unit and they sent me a brand new motor. I didn't need to send them anything or go through the trouble of removing and shipping the whole unit with the rode.

It took a couple of days, but they contacted me by phone originally and helped diagnose the problem. By the way, my unit would not move up or down and made a clicking noise at the solenoid in the anchor locker.
 
Also, I forgot to mention that there are only four bolts holding the unit to the deck with metal backing plates underneath that the solenoids are mounted to. Very easy to unbolt the unit, lift it up and one screw holds the motor to the windlass assembly. I am no mechanic, although I try, and me and a dockmate had the unit off and reinstalled the new motor in under an hour. My local Sea Ray dealer wanted $300 in labor and suggested a new windlass.

I'm happy and the admiral is really happy now that she won't have to go to the bow and retreive the anchor...
 
Thanks for the info.

The brilliant mechanic at the marina somehow managed to get the clutch to release some line, and it was pretty chewed up, and now the motor works just fine. So I bought some new line (1/2 inch nylon) and will replace it. Hopefully my windlass problems are over!!!

Thanks again for your info, I may need it in the future.

Steve
 
can somebody help me with my windlass. I have good windlass , and when I’m picking up anchor about every minute or so it stops, I have to go to cabin , pull the rope down and it will work for another min or so. What could it be?
 
Thanks for reply. I was at the boat today and didn't see any screws missing. I'm wondering if it's worth pulling the top off to see if the plastic piece you mentioned is broken.
I am having the exact problem and have the same one. All I get is a clicking. Did take off the top housing and all seemed fine a little tricky getting the adjuster screw in but it will go. Also be very careful,,,, do NOT over tighten the screws. It has a solenoid (50 amp) I used a volt meter and was bad replaced and back in business. You can order thru good windlass and are $80 I went to west marine.
 

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