1978 Sea Ray 260 gas tank removal

[Rayfor]

I finally got the tank broken loose from the foam. The motor has been removed and the bulk head into the engine compartment has been cut and the damn thing still won't come out. Before I cut the bulk head into the cabin can anyone tell me if the tank can be removed via sliding it into the cabin? Or do I have to cut up the tank which makes me nervous. The tank appears empty but there is a faint smell of gas fumes. That said I also hate cutting it up without seeing the condition of the tank underneath. Appreciate any advice. Thanks

 

[scoflaw]

I filled mine with water and then cut it up

 

[Thornton69]

In my 245, the tank goes forward into to the cabin and then out the door. The bulkheads don't have to be removed, but the door frame did. Going to slip it back in today and hopefully have it in the water soon.

It is a 400 liter tank.

 

[Cap10patNC]

Nice to read these messages, and see that picture. I had to replace my gas tank when I bought my boat, a 1980 26 Weekender model. Similar centerline fuel tank and a 260 V8. But it was easier on the Weekender. Just a screwed on cover in the center of the cockpit. And there was no foam to get stuck on. Just a plywood box - like a coffin - with straps to secure the tank. The tank was metal and corroded, and leaking. I replaced it with a fiberglass tank that fit perfectly. Still working great. Weekender is a great model!

 

[Rayfor]

I filled mine with water and then cut it up

Good one. That's what I'll do if I can't get it out in one piece. The tank is aluminum and doesn't look too bad from the sides and top so I'm hoping to evaluate it if I can get it out.

 

[Rayfor]

In my 245, the tank goes forward into to the cabin and then out the door. The bulkheads don't have to be removed, but the door frame did. Going to slip it back in today and hopefully have it in the water soon.
View attachment 82759
It is a 400 liter tank.

Did your tank have that extra height on the engine compartment end? Because of that I'll definitely have to cut to get it out through the cabin if I decide to try. Nice picture. That's how I want mine to look when it's all said and done. Thanks

 

[Rayfor]

Nice to read these messages, and see that picture. I had to replace my gas tank when I bought my boat, a 1980 26 Weekender model. Similar centerline fuel tank and a 260 V8. But it was easier on the Weekender. Just a screwed on cover in the center of the cockpit. And there was no foam to get stuck on. Just a plywood box - like a coffin - with straps to secure the tank. The tank was metal and corroded, and leaking. I replaced it with a fiberglass tank that fit perfectly. Still working great. Weekender is a great model!

 

[Rayfor]

Nice. Mine is a Sundancer. The foam was a nightmare trying to get the tank loose. The tank is a 100 gallon aluminum tank with an extra high end by the engine compartment. I'd love to get it out in one piece but I may not be able to. I have to take another look at it now that I have regained some energy that was completely exhausted dealing with the foam lol. See what happens but I doubt I'll be able to do it. It's clear Sea Ray built around the tank and there was no consideration for it's removal like perhaps your Weekender design. Thanks

 

[Thornton69]

Did your tank have that extra height on the engine compartment end? Because of that I'll definitely have to cut to get it out through the cabin if I decide to try. Nice picture. That's how I want mine to look when it's all said and done. Thanks

Yes

 

[Thornton69]

I couldn't get any info on mine from Sea Ray. The only thing they could tell me was the facility it was built in and that it was a custom build. The model is an SDC which I would guess to be SunDancer Custom maybe? The owner manual that came with it references the 270 SDB which has a bridge. This one came without it.

 

[Rayfor]

Yes
View attachment 82842

That's the one. I have a fiberglassed sort of wall that comes all the way down to the top of the low end of the tank not far behind the high end. I clearly have to cut that to get the high end into the cabin. I'll see what it looks like and perhaps give it a try. Thanks

 

[Thornton69]

That's the one. I have a fiberglassed sort of wall that comes all the way down to the top of the low end of the tank not far behind the high end. I clearly have to cut that to get the high end into the cabin. I'll see what it looks like and perhaps give it a try. Thanks

That isn't how mine was set up. It has a self bailing high deck with 2 steps down into the cabin. The lower step was a removable panel with a bus style heater in it. My tank was also not foamed in or failed. Dodged a bullet there. It was removed to chase soft stringers. Had to eventually remove the starboard cabin wall as the outer stringer on that side was failed well into the cabin.

 

[Rayfor]

That isn't how mine was set up. It has a self bailing high deck with 2 steps down into the cabin. The lower step was a removable panel with a bus style heater in it. My tank was also not foamed in or failed. Dodged a bullet there. It was removed to chase soft stringers. Had to eventually remove the starboard cabin wall as the outer stringer on that side was failed well into the cabin.
View attachment 82850 View attachment 82851

I have to step down into the cabin also. I'm in the process of taking everything out of the boat to assess the stringers among other things also. Once everything is out and cleaned up I want to get a surveyor to look it over and verify what I need to do. It's a project. there's some pictures where you can see the tank and the openings I have to deal with. I already did a cut at that wall that came down on the low end of the tank but after some measuring it's clear it won't come out through the cabin. I have to cut the tank up.

 

[Thornton69]

That's too bad. Doesn't look like you have the same amount of room to work with. If you do cut it out, What is your plan for a replacement tank and installing it?
You will want to have a good look at the transom as well when inspecting stringers. I found the outer stringers were worse than the inners and are not accessible until the deck was removed. They were dry but crumbled apart. The transom had better than a 1/2" of glass shell on the outside of it. I had to replaced a few square feet where water had worked it's way in through starboard trim tab screws. You will want to have a good look at it as well. Tapping around the inner hull with a rubber mallet, will help to identify the soft and delaminated areas. You may want to give it your own test before hiring someone to do theirs.
The material cost to do our stringers and lower decks were about $2500. Did take my time, but will likely be in the neighborhood of 300 hrs for labour before it's done. Would have been a deal breaker for me if I had to hire someone.
Good luck with yours!

 

[Rayfor]

That's too bad. Doesn't look like you have the same amount of room to work with. If you do cut it out, What is your plan for a replacement tank and installing it?
You will want to have a good look at the transom as well when inspecting stringers. I found the outer stringers were worse than the inners and are not accessible until the deck was removed. They were dry but crumbled apart. The transom had better than a 1/2" of glass shell on the outside of it. I had to replaced a few square feet where water had worked it's way in through starboard trim tab screws. You will want to have a good look at it as well. Tapping around the inner hull with a rubber mallet, will help to identify the soft and delaminated areas. You may want to give it your own test before hiring someone to do theirs.
The material cost to do our stringers and lower decks were about $2500. Did take my time, but will likely be in the neighborhood of 300 hrs for labour before it's done. Would have been a deal breaker for me if I had to hire someone.
Good luck with yours!

Sounds like you've done what I plan to do. I'm not in a hurry and expect to do most if not all the work. There's a certified hull surveyor that lives near me and I would like his expertise so I know for sure what I need to do. That said I want to do my own check and see if my findings compare at all with the surveyor. I have a newer pioneer 197 sportfish that gets me on the water now but I'm looking forward to the day I can get this old sea ray going, plus it's pretty interesting and dare I say fun working on it. Gas tank excluded. Thanks for the info

 

[claytonfamca]

I know this is an old thread but I am just finishing my tank install. I have a 1978 240SDC. I have the same exact tank as Rayfor. I don't know exactly what size but I am guessing around 100. According to the brochure they came with 70 but that doesn't seem right. Anyways, to remove mine I had to remove the bulkhead that separates the engine bay from the cabin and then slide the tank forward and then up and out the cabin door. This was a very big paid and had to remove the sliding door as well but its out. The new tank is sitting in my garage. It is starting to rain for the next week and so I have to wait until it clears up to get the new tank installed. I found a place in San Diego that used my old one as a template and made me one exact to fit. Message me if you want more info or pics. All i can say is a winch and a ladder on the back deck and ratchet tie downs save me in the removal. Have fun.

 

[claytonfamca]

Sounds like you've done what I plan to do. I'm not in a hurry and expect to do most if not all the work. There's a certified hull surveyor that lives near me and I would like his expertise so I know for sure what I need to do. That said I want to do my own check and see if my findings compare at all with the surveyor. I have a newer pioneer 197 sportfish that gets me on the water now but I'm looking forward to the day I can get this old sea ray going, plus it's pretty interesting and dare I say fun working on it. Gas tank excluded. Thanks for the info

I know this is an old thread but I am just finishing my tank install. I have a 1978 240SDC. I have the same exact tank as Rayfor. I don't know exactly what size but I am guessing around 100. According to the brochure they came with 70 but that doesn't seem right. Anyways, to remove mine I had to remove the bulkhead that separates the engine bay from the cabin and then slide the tank forward and then up and out the cabin door. This was a very big paid and had to remove the sliding door as well but its out. The new tank is sitting in my garage. It is starting to rain for the next week and so I have to wait until it clears up to get the new tank installed. I found a place in San Diego that used my old one as a template and made me one exact to fit. Message me if you want more info or pics. All i can say is a winch and a ladder on the back deck and ratchet tie downs save me in the removal. Have fun.

 

[Thornton69]

When you get around to installing your new tank, what is your plan for bedding it? I used 5200 to bond 1/4 x 2" strips of neoprene to the tank directly under it's internal baffles. You don't want to have any surface contacting the tank that can trap moisture.

 

[claytonfamca]

Sounds like you've done what I plan to do. I'm not in a hurry and expect to do most if not all the work. There's a certified hull surveyor that lives near me and I would like his expertise so I know for sure what I need to do. That said I want to do my own check and see if my findings compare at all with the surveyor. I have a newer pioneer 197 sportfish that gets me on the water now but I'm looking forward to the day I can get this old sea ray going, plus it's pretty interesting and dare I say fun working on it. Gas tank excluded. Thanks for the info

I know this is an old thread but I am just finishing my tank install. I have a 1978 240SDC. I have the same exact tank as Rayfor. I don't know exactly what size but I am guessing around 100. According to the brochure they came with 70 but that doesn't seem right. Anyways, to remove mine I had to remove the bulkhead that separates the engine bay from the cabin and then slide the tank forward and then up and out the cabin door. This was a very big paid and had to remove the sliding door as well but its out. The new tank is sitting in my garage. It is starting to rain for the next week and so I have to wait until it clears up to get the new tank installed. I found a place in San Diego that used my old one as a template and made me one exact to fit. Message me if you want more info or pics. All i can say is a winch and a ladder on the back deck and ratchet tie downs save me in the removal. Have fun.

When you get around to installing your new tank, what is your plan for bedding it? I used 5200 to bond 1/4 x 2" strips of neoprene to the tank directly under it's internal baffles. You don't want to have any surface contacting the tank that can trap moisture.

I had the company that built the tank weld on some aluminum pads on the bottom. They suggested glassing some wooden pads onto the fiberglass hull then set the tank onto that. However I'm thinking to add some nitrile in between.