Recently purchased a 1970 SeaRay SRV 180 for a little project before summer rolls around. The deck was a little soft right in front of the motor and the carpet was toast but otherwise in good shape. I already knew I was gonna be replacing the plywood deck but once I had it open i found about half the foam was soaked. I already have it apart and am replacing the stringers as they are soft toward the middle of the boat. I was hoping for some insight as I put it back together. Since there are only 2 stringers running the length of the boat for the deck to rest on and the old foam could withstand being stood on without compressing would I be better off using the 2lb or 4lb foam for a replacement as I'm sure it was adding strength/support to the deck. Also what is the recommended method for filling the foam? install deck then drill holes and fill or fill then trim then install the deck. The most rot to the deck before I tore it apart seemed to be around the fill holes where the glass had sunk and cracked into them. Trying to avoid this potentially happening again.
1970 SRV 180 Project
CKOMO, Go to the Hull Truth board Section "How To" and you will find a boat load of valuable information. You could also go to CLASSIC MAKO another board with a wealth of knowledge about the information you need. Good Luck, JC
Ike
Active Member
- Dec 17, 2011
- 460
- Boat Info
- 1972 Sea Ray SRV 190 I/O
12 Ft Rowboat
8 Foot Sailing Dinghy
- Engines
- Mercruiser 165 6cyl inline GM 250
A little late to the party but what you are doing sounds exactly like what I had to do with my 1972 SRV 190. Look here. I posted the process on my web site. https://newboatbuilders.com/pages/SeaRay190.html Many people use 2 lb density two part foam. But if you do expect to have to replace it sometime in the future. Because pour foam is notorious for soaking up water. It's advantages are convenience, and because it is a polyurethane foam it is impervious to solvents such as gas, oil, bilge cleaners. Those things will melt polystryenes. But Polystyrenes are cheaper, you can buy them in sheet form at Home Depot or any hardware store, and they don't soak up water. However you do have to bag them to keep gas, oil, etc away from them. Look at my website to see how I did it.
As for 4 lb, flotation foam, it weighs twice as much and doesn't necessarily provide any additional strength. It's not a structural foam. It has very little compressive strength. And doesn't provide as much flotation as the same cubic feet of 2 lb.
Replacing the stringers and sole (floor) are pretty straight forward carpentry work. I would strongly suggest you put several layers of epoxy on all the wood. I used a penetrating resin that really soaks into the wood but you need PPE and a respirator to use this stuff, so if you have no experience working with toxic stuff I wouldn't recommend it. But it will keep the wood from ever rotting. Then after applying the CPES I coated it with three layers of System Three Epoxy.
Anyway, look at my website and you'll see a lot more. Otherwise I'll have to rewrite it here. LOL.
As for 4 lb, flotation foam, it weighs twice as much and doesn't necessarily provide any additional strength. It's not a structural foam. It has very little compressive strength. And doesn't provide as much flotation as the same cubic feet of 2 lb.
Replacing the stringers and sole (floor) are pretty straight forward carpentry work. I would strongly suggest you put several layers of epoxy on all the wood. I used a penetrating resin that really soaks into the wood but you need PPE and a respirator to use this stuff, so if you have no experience working with toxic stuff I wouldn't recommend it. But it will keep the wood from ever rotting. Then after applying the CPES I coated it with three layers of System Three Epoxy.
Anyway, look at my website and you'll see a lot more. Otherwise I'll have to rewrite it here. LOL.
Thanks for your response, I actually came across your site while looking to see what others have done and took some inspiration from it. I think I'm going to go with 2 part foam in part because I took out the entirety of the floor and should be easier to deal with the changes in shape thought the boat, if I do it right I won't need to do it again is the hope. The old foam seemed pretty stout even though it was pretty wet so wasn't sure of it had any structural benefit using 4lb as the stringers in mine seem pretty minimal in comparison to yours as mine does not have a ski locker and only 2 small pieces of plywood wedged horizontally between the stringers for support.
Ike
Active Member
- Dec 17, 2011
- 460
- Boat Info
- 1972 Sea Ray SRV 190 I/O
12 Ft Rowboat
8 Foot Sailing Dinghy
- Engines
- Mercruiser 165 6cyl inline GM 250
Glad to hear you found my website. The bad news is that in 2020 somebody hit my boat and although there is not a lot of damage I am going to have to take it to a fiberglass shop to have some work done. It also needs a new drive. The old one finally died after 48 years. So it will be in the shop for a while.
1ofthesedays
New Member
- Jan 18, 2012
- 6
- Boat Info
- 1986 Sundancer 268, original owner. Marlin 21 daycruiser, jet
- Engines
- 4.3 twins.455 olds
Just read thur your entire web site repair. Thanks, for info. will help in what i need to do. Nice job by the way. Sorry about the damage.
