160 Stereo upgrade (and looking for opinions on interior)

The cracking vinyl was mainly on the rear seat. I don't know if sun tan products caused the damage or cleaning agents but that seat takes a lot of abuse as people step on it to get in/out of the boat.

I had what I think they called the convertible top. Where a bimini is up high, this one connected to the front windshield and folded back. I had side windows and a backside canvas w/window that snapped to the transom. The convertible top stored in the front of the engine compartment. I didn't ever use it that much except when caught in an unexpected rainstorm. I left the rest of the top in my garage at home.

As you indicated I had no floor storage. I would keep the skis and life jackets under the rear seat. The engine compartment did have a lot of storage. On the port side there was a built in cooler though I didn’t use it that way because ice didn’t last long in the hot engine compartment. I usually kept ropes and smaller accessory items in the cooler. I installed 2 trolling motor batteries and a battery charger underneath it as that space was hard to get to without unscrewing the cooler. On the starboard side there was tons of storage space. The compartment was big enough to fit in and you could easily reach a lot of the important engine parts from this side including the starter, spark plugs, etc. Now this wasn't a dry compartment so you had to pull anything out there to dry it after a storm. I usually kept the throw cushion; extra life jackets and the kneeboard would also fit back there.

It was a great boat. As you stated it was easy to tow around and it did a great job pulling a skier or tubing with the kids. It could be towed with almost anything and would easily fit in the garage. It just got way to small for us. I saw the boat at the shop last summer. The once pristine prop was mangled and repaired the owner. It was getting a starter repair because the owner broke a bolt and then drilled the broken bolt out wrong. I didn’t have heart to look at the fiberglass because I’m sure the pristine keel has been beached and allowed to scratch and chip.
 
Nate,

the gunwales are mostly open. About halfway, there is an open shelf that runs the length of the cockpit on both sides. Open below the shelf (you can see the curvature of the hull).

the good part is that I have all spring/summer to figure out what to do!

Yes, a zodiac counts, IMO. get on the water by any means necessary!

Jackson/Lansing area is some pretty nice country. I lived out that way for a couple of years ('98-'99).
 
The cracking vinyl was mainly on the rear seat. I don't know if sun tan products caused the damage or cleaning agents but that seat takes a lot of abuse as people step on it to get in/out of the boat.

I had what I think they called the convertible top. Where a bimini is up high, this one connected to the front windshield and folded back. I had side windows and a backside canvas w/window that snapped to the transom. The convertible top stored in the front of the engine compartment. I didn't ever use it that much except when caught in an unexpected rainstorm. I left the rest of the top in my garage at home.

As you indicated I had no floor storage. I would keep the skis and life jackets under the rear seat. The engine compartment did have a lot of storage. On the port side there was a built in cooler though I didn’t use it that way because ice didn’t last long in the hot engine compartment. I usually kept ropes and smaller accessory items in the cooler. I installed 2 trolling motor batteries and a battery charger underneath it as that space was hard to get to without unscrewing the cooler. On the starboard side there was tons of storage space. The compartment was big enough to fit in and you could easily reach a lot of the important engine parts from this side including the starter, spark plugs, etc. Now this wasn't a dry compartment so you had to pull anything out there to dry it after a storm. I usually kept the throw cushion; extra life jackets and the kneeboard would also fit back there.

It was a great boat. As you stated it was easy to tow around and it did a great job pulling a skier or tubing with the kids. It could be towed with almost anything and would easily fit in the garage. It just got way to small for us. I saw the boat at the shop last summer. The once pristine prop was mangled and repaired the owner. It was getting a starter repair because the owner broke a bolt and then drilled the broken bolt out wrong. I didn’t have heart to look at the fiberglass because I’m sure the pristine keel has been beached and allowed to scratch and chip.


I have read that suntan lotion and things of that nature can discolor vinyl and turn it brittle.

I guess what I have would be called a convertible top as well. Mine doesn't have side curtains or a back though. It would be interesting to see what a 160 would look like with the enclosure on.

Sounds like you had a good bit of storage!! Perhaps more so than my layout. But it does seem like it would be a bit more difficult to work on the engine. I'm pretty happy with the fact that when I remove my engine cover, I have quick and easy access to everything. One thing I've done so far to make oil changes easier is I installed a drain tube to the oil pan drain with an in-line valve. Now to drain my oil I just run the tube out the drain plug in the transom, remove the end cap from the tube and open the valve! So much easier than using an evaluator pump or cramming something under the oil pan to catch the oil.

Isn't it funny how that works? Sell something you took good care of, see it later on and invariably it will be destroyed. Home prop repair... just the idea of that makes me cringe! You don't happen to remember what size prop you ran do you? When I got mine it had an aluminum prop that wasn't the same specs as the factory recommended. I ended up swapping it out with a Michigan Prop Apollo stainless in the "correct" size/pitch.
 
Nate,

the gunwales are mostly open. About halfway, there is an open shelf that runs the length of the cockpit on both sides. Open below the shelf (you can see the curvature of the hull).

the good part is that I have all spring/summer to figure out what to do!

Yes, a zodiac counts, IMO. get on the water by any means necessary!

Jackson/Lansing area is some pretty nice country. I lived out that way for a couple of years ('98-'99).


That does sound like a tough position to be in when you want to add speakers!!!

I'm pretty happy with the area; it's not big enough to get lost, but it's not so small that you can't find anything you want/need. And the lakes within 50-60 miles... great selection; they aren't big, but it's enough for some water sports!

With any luck I'll get the boat out to lake St Clair this summer a couple times. Where are you usually at on the lake?
 
Nice looking setup! And from what pictures we can see of it, nice looking boat; looks well maintained. I wonder what all that sounds like? Probably awesome. And then I wonder how much $$$? :grin:

I hear you on the teal color; when I purchased my '95, it had the same color interior as yours. We replaced it all with Navy blue; one of the three choices offered that year (Teal, Maroon, Navy Blue). Looks tons better!


btw... I think all told I have around $900-$1000 into this stereo; that includes two pair of coaxial speakers, one sub, one amp, CMD5 head unit w/ wired remote, materials and supplies included (and I can not even begin to tell you how much wire loom I went through!!!).

That's not really too expensive for all sealed marine products; Labor to install would have ran somewhere north of $500 I'd assume (building the sub box would have been a decent chunk of that). Truth be known, most stereo installs are DIY projects if you're willing to research, ask questions and take your time.

One thing I can't stand about most electronics install places... CRIMP CONNECTORS; chaps me to no end! The electrical connection isn't as good as soldering, and when you solder wires together they WILL NOT come apart on their own. I also use sealant lined shrink tubing for all of my connections; this makes a water tight bond. For ring terminals where the end of the soldered wire is exposed, just for extra protection I coat the joint with liquid electrical tape before installing the shrink tubing over the joint and terminal base.

If anyone decides to tackle an install on their own, I'd be more than willing to lend some advise and experience... and if I don't know the answer (and believe me, there is still A LOT I have left to learn), I know some top notch resources to find the answer!
 
Last edited:
JL Audio makes by far the best small enclosure marine sub. It,s no contest unless you are using a cheap amp to drive it. They hit hard but crave good clean power.
P1010026.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,248
Messages
1,429,278
Members
61,128
Latest member
greenworld
Back
Top