'07 36 DB - Anchor Light too Tall for New Covered Slip :-(

[Boomer]

I recently bought a "dockaminium" - nice covered slip - everything was fine - until the first time I backed in.

My all-around anchor light - mounted on a mast such that its at the highest point (about 8 inches higher than my open array), is too tall for the roof line of the slip - the lowest point is at the entry of the slip - given the slope of the dock roof. From the top of the array to the lowest point of the roof, I have only about six inches clearence.

Yes, I broke the light off the mast - frown :-(

Not only do I not know how to get on top of my hardtop (mostly a hard top with a bimini at the rear) to address this problem - once I know how to get up there, I don't know how to rig the anchor light so as to recify the problem.

Granted, I could make the anchor light just a bit taller than the array, but if I'm backing in my slip and a wake hits the boat, the bouncing boat will again have the anchor light hit the roof line at entry into the slip.

Do any folks here have any creative ideas? - like:

- a flexible anchor light mast

- maybe mounting a battery operated anchor light on my VHF antenna (which is easily adjustable) and when antenna is tilted fully up it will then easily be the highest point and comply with USGA specs.

- etc.

Remember...I have two problems - 1) how to get up on top to start fixing the problem and 2) the anchor light rigging.

Thanks everyone - hope someone can help.

Mike

 

[chumbley]

Ladder? Hang from the rafters of the dock? Cherry picker? Get bitten by a radioactive spider and swing up there on your web?

Can you have the dock roof modified with a higher area where the will light pass? Even just a "notch" in the roofline? I wouldn't mount the light to the antenna. Not good for the antenna, no way to run wires, would look like crap.

Probably not much help - but wanted to say hello to a fellow Travis boater.

 

[HUMPH]

I imagine they make anchor light stems that pivot so you can fold it over. I doubt if you will find one that is motorized though...

 

[At Ease]

Google for retractable anchor light. There are some post out there for such a product. Mostly for go fast boats.

 

[LTD.330]

What a crappy problem to have. What will you do when the water rises and your open array hits the roof?

I suggest you paint a go/no-go line on a piling visible from outside of the slip so that you can tell if your boat will fit.

 

[wetpaint]

buy a smaller boat

 

[chumbley]

What a crappy problem to have. What will you do when the water rises and your open array hits the roof?

I suggest you paint a go/no-go line on a piling visible from outside of the slip so that you can tell if your boat will fit.

Our docks float on this lake, as it varies in depth as much as 50 feet or more depending on how wet or dry it is. So the clearance will always be the same (sans any wave action).

 

[Henry Boyd]

Ok,

Getting to the top might not be too difficult if the bimini unzips from the hardtop edge. If it is one of the semi-permanent tops it might be a hassle.

I assume the light pole is mounted to the base of the radar array and is just a big "L". How does it attach to the base? Is there a set screw that could be replaced with a thumb screw?

There are fold down mast lights, but placement with an open array is going to call for a creative solution. There has just been a discussion on the placement of the white light and the appropriate requirments.

The solution might be to add a white light (meeting the 2NM visibility requirement) on the transom where it is in clear view for 135 degrees. If there is room in front of the array you could place a forward facing (also 2 nm ) covering a 225 degree arc. I don't believe the mast light has to be the highest point on the boat if you have a total of 360 degrees of visible white light between the transom and forward mast light. If you could get the 225 degree arc in the front, that light could even be below the sweep of the array.

Here is the link to the thread:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34198

Look at post # 9. Illustration 1B is what I am suggesting.

Henry

 

[CMG]

I had my sea ray dealer change out the taller light for a shorter one. As tall as the boat is you should not have any problems with the two mile light requirement. As far as getting up on top good luck, try going threw the canvas on the back.
Craig

 

[chumbley]

Ok,

Getting to the top might not be too difficult if the bimini unzips from the hardtop edge. If it is one of the semi-permanent tops it might be a hassle.

I assume the light pole is mounted to the base of the radar array and is just a big "L". How does it attach to the base? Is there a set screw that could be replaced with a thumb screw?

There are fold down mast lights, but placement with an open array is going to call for a creative solution. There has just been a discussion on the placement of the white light and the appropriate requirments.

The solution might be to add a white light (meeting the 2NM visibility requirement) on the transom where it is in clear view for 135 degrees. If there is room in front of the array you could place a forward facing (also 2 nm ) covering a 225 degree arc. I don't believe the mast light has to be the highest point on the boat if you have a total of 360 degrees of visible white light between the transom and forward mast light. If you could get the 225 degree arc in the front, that light could even be below the sweep of the array.

Here is the link to the thread:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34198

Look at post # 9. Illustration 1B is what I am suggesting.

Henry

I'm pretty sure you need 360 degrees above the highest point for anchor. You would be alright with your 270 front plus stern for running.

 

[Henry Boyd]

Jeff,

I just checked on Boatsafe and the anchor light has to show "360 degrees anywhere it can be seen". It also states that boats less than 20 meters in length do not need to show an anchor light. Sea Ray shows the 2007 36db at 11.43 M LOA.

I tried to wade through CFR 33 part 84 on lights, and the best I could come up with is that on boats less than 12 meters the white all around light has to be 2.5 meters above the gunwale and 1.0 meter above the colored navigation lights.

So it would appear that most of us are not required to show an all around anchor light. Personally, I wouldn't anchor overnight without using one, but it becomes personal choice not a requirement. But since it is not a requirement, there would seem to be an element of freedom in where the light could be placed.

Henry

 

[Woody]

Jeff,

I just checked on Boatsafe and the anchor light has to show "360 degrees anywhere it can be seen". It also states that boats less than 20 meters in length do not need to show an anchor light. Sea Ray shows the 2007 36db at 11.43 M LOA.

I tried to wade through CFR 33 part 84 on lights, and the best I could come up with is that on boats less than 12 meters the white all around light has to be 2.5 meters above the gunwale and 1.0 meter above the colored navigation lights.

So it would appear that most of us are not required to show an all around anchor light. Personally, I wouldn't anchor overnight without using one, but it becomes personal choice not a requirement. But since it is not a requirement, there would seem to be an element of freedom in where the light could be placed.

Henry

I couldn't find this, do you have a direct link?

 

[Henry Boyd]

I couldn't find this, do you have a direct link?

I'm embarrassed to say I can't find the boatsafe link. But CFR 33 part 83.30 reads:

(a) Vessels at anchor. A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen:
(1) In the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball; and
(2) At or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (1), an all-round white light.



Here is the link to CFR 33 part 83.30 (scroll down the page)

http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr;sid=db175b9b74c78f3014773d02bf9357f7;rgn=div5;view=text;node=33%3A1.0.1.5.38;idno=33;cc=ecfr#33:1.0.1.5.38.3.26.3

I couldn't find the less than 12 meter exemption in the CFR. But I'll keep trying to find the Boatsafe link again.



BoatUS in this link in the section 'Masthead Light' makes the point that the masthead light does not have to be at the top most part of the boat:

http://www.boatus.org/onlinecourse/reviewpages/boatusf/project/info2c.htm

Henry

 

[Boomer]

Hey Jeff - thanks for the note/thoughts! I'll figure something out...

Mike

 

[Boomer]

Thanks everyone for all the excellent responses.

Here are some pictures of the challenge at hand:

Pic 1: I've just lowered the mast (after breaking the light from the mast) so I could get into the new slip.

Pic 2: The broken light

Pic 3: Where the mast is attached behind the open array. Also, you can see where I've strung a string from the dock supports to get a clear sense of available height. The string doesn't show as well in this pic but it's about 6 inched above the array - just about an inch or two taller than the bottom of the eaves on the lowest point of the roof. Of course I'll have to have enough cleanance to tolerate possible waves/wakes when I'm backing in

Pic 4:You can clearly see how the all around light WAS originally rigged - too high for me now - but maybe high enough to allow me to shorten it enough and still be the highest point.

Pic 5: Again, another view of the rigging on top of the hardtop as I was backing into my prior/taller slip.

So, once again everyone - thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions.

When I finally solve this I'll post and update...

Mike

 

[Henry Boyd]

Mike,

If the existing light tube can be shortened enough, i.e. the vertical section is long enough to be shortened to the clearance you need and leave enough for the light to mount, you can re-use the existing tube.

The light head just screws into the tube (although it may be pop rivited). Drill out / remove the rivit/screw and extract the broken piece of tube. NOTE: There is a front and back to that light head - See comments on 135 degree arc towards aft 225 degree arc towards bow. Use an electrician's conduit cutter to shorten the tube. Then use a set of sheet metal snips to split the short piece (and the broken piece) and remove them from the wire. Now drill a hole for the set screw to hold the light head. Now you can stuff the wire back down the tube and attach the light head without having to cut and splice the wires.

Henry

 

[Dave S]

Here is a motorized retractable light that might work. http://www.innovativelight.com/powerlight-motorized-led-stern-light_p_1473_11558_1.cfm The biggest problem would be whether you could find a satisfactory way to deal with the mast in your bridge area when it is lowered.

Dave

 

[PMC]

I have this style:

If you can find a mast that extends within reach with the canvas up.

 

[Boomer]

Thanks Henry - that's just about what I'm thinking - great minds!!!

 

[Boomer]

Here is a motorized retractable light that might work. http://www.innovativelight.com/powerlight-motorized-led-stern-light_p_1473_11558_1.cfm The biggest problem would be whether you could find a satisfactory way to deal with the mast in your bridge area when it is lowered.

Dave

Thanks Dave - what a great product, but you are right - no place to hide the antenna when it's down.

Thanks still the same.

Mike