'03 260 sundancer engine cooling on 5.0

[smittyasc3]

I am in the process of purchasing a 2003 260 Sundancer. It is currently shrink wrapped so I cant get into the engine compartment. I was wondering how the engine cooling works on this motor. It has a bravo 3 drive. I used to have an alpha drive on my old boat and had to replace the water pump impeller every year. I want to run the engine this weekend and test everything out. Thanks for your help!

 

[Lazy Daze]

Great boat you're looking at there! Although, I guess I'm a little biased!

It still uses an impeller, but the pump (with impeller inside) is located on the engine and is belt driven (it's the accessory that's located on the bottom, starboard side with two large hoses). There is nothing in the drive. Typically (even with an Alpha) you shouldn't need to replace it every year - maybe every two or three. But, it depends on the type of water you're in - seeing where you are located you might be in shallow, sandy water a lot. That would likely require replacing it more often.

There's good access to the engine in this model boat. It's actually one of the easiest small boats to work on.

Check out this thread: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/23453-The-official-99-04-260DA-Sundancer-thread

Good luck!

 

[smittyasc3]

Thanks Dennis. And it only has 160 hours on it.

So if I wanted to run it in dry dock how would I go about doing that?

 

[Nehalennia]

Welcome to the 260DA Club. Dennis hit it on the spot. I would recommend this flush kit. It's a Mercury/Quicksilver Part # 44357Q2

 

[smittyasc3]

Thanks. But i thought the pick up for the water was through the hull on this boat? Does it pick up water through the drive?

 

[Lazy Daze]

I use the same one that Todd does - there's no chance of it coming off like the standard one.

Normally, the water pick-up is the same as your Alpha was. However, it can be changed over to a thru-hull. You'll know when you take a look. If it's a thru-hull, you'll use a "Fake-A-Lake". Basically, half of the above picture with an adjustable pole (think small boat cover support pole) that will hold the "cup" against the intake, wedged from the ground.

You're not planning on just running it the driveway before you buy it, are you? Are you at least going to do a compression test? Checking all of the other systems - both 12v and 120v? It can be done in a driveway, but you really need to have some experience in this matter to do it successfully. Even then, sometimes problems don't rear their heads until a good (not just 10 minutes) test drive. I'm not saying you don't possess those skills - just a word of caution.

Don't get too starry-eyed by the low hours. That isn't always a good thing. Make sure everything checks out.

 

[smittyasc3]

I was planning on running at the marina on land. Its a mutual friends boat (someone who I see alot). The boat has an extended warranty on it through 2012. I am bringing a mechanic with me to check the engine and drive. I plan on doing compression test and all electric system test. Not going to splash it because the marina wants $180 to put it in and another $180 to take it out. I would still have to de-winterize the entire boat, wax, bottom paint, zincs, etc....May main queston was how to run it on land.

 

[Nehalennia]

Yes as Dennis mentioned there are two types of water pick ups for the pump. Through the drive or through a through hull fitting and strainer.
It's good that you are bringing your mechanic to have a close look. Pull the drive for inspection too. This is very important. Have the drive inspected pressure tested and then move to the engine.