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Hi there I had a similar leak at the transom and unfortunately it turned out to be the transom seal that had lost its shape and "flattened out" I ended up pulling the motor and replaced the transom assembly, whilst in there I noticed there was a void at the lowest point of the transom assembly...

Hi all When returning from my last outing in fairly sloppy conditions I noticed we had distinct prop cavitation at low speed. With the drive right in the existing 141/4 x 17p 4 blade was loosing "bite" and would slip with higher rpm and see no increase in speed. I was told once that my existing...

Hi there I have just gone through the exact same scenario but without all the people. Check my thread.

I am sorry for responding to my own thread but I can't help but notice the difference between the Barr type manifolds and the merc ones, and I am of the belief the crusader is a better package and maybe one reason is the manifolds design?? Do the crusaders use flapper valves?

Thanks again for the responses. Yes I have read that bulletin and pretty much every other piece of info on the net relating to water ingestion! Given that we have only owned this boat for 10 years and it is the original engine I suppose I cannot rule out exhaust valve/s sticking as a possible...

Thank you again for the replies I am having great difficulty believing in this day and age there is not a better system available!! So a brand new searay will have this same exhaust design?

O.K No space for riser extensions and I noticed upon removal of the risers one of the less than 12 month old flappers sticks open and it doesn't take much for the other to "stick" as well. They in my opinion are no guarantee in stopping water flowing back. I know it is a long shot but what about...

Thanks for the replies. After checking I found there is no space for any riser extensions, so here and now it seems the "water lift" is the only way to go. Does this mean the "Y" pipe becomes redundant and I can plate over the transom hole? So the exhaust exit pipes above the water but in the...

ANYONE..... care to comment????

As expected, I do not have 330mm or 13" above the w/line I have about 50mm or 2" With 2 adults on the platform (which is flush with the hull/deck join) the water sometimes washes over and this means the riser outlet is BELOW THE WATERLINE! What are my options to ensure I do not experience this...

Thank you again for the replies, I will check those dimensions tomorrow but I reckon there is no way I would have 13" above the waterline.

Hi everyone As the title states I am curious if I need riser extensions as I have just replaced an engine due to water ingestion and cannot rule out the possibility that the swim platform with people sitting on it effects the water level in the "y" pipe whilst not underway. Thanks in advance...

Hi there We are currently going through a similar scenario with a 1994 model and my advice is to remove the transom assembly whilst the engine is out and check for transom damage from water and replace the seal.

Thank you for the reply thornton There appears to be ONE! stockist in Australia who is only interested in unloading the EFI unit for $17 500 Aussie Pesos! I am of the understanding amongst other things the crusader has a better manifold/riser design and I am considering a merc long block and...

Hello Could someone please confirm if crusader still make a carb 350 engine and if so do they require a through hull water feed on full closed cooling? Also would any dealers ship to Australia? Thanks Darylle

Hi I have just removed our 5.0 with water damage from unknown source, how did you find the hole? Ours is '94with 700 hours and no previous drama and it looks like no 1 is where it started.

OK grease hey? I might be onto something! Motor and drive have been removed, have photos and will forward when computer is repaired after last nights storm!

No mercathode on ours, ANY water in the bilge will find its way into this cavity and due to the transom angle and the transom cut out angle it is trapped I am of the opinion the hoses and fittings seldom require attention and if I went with foam it would be easier to remove.

Hello A question regarding filling in the void/cavity where the trim/tilt hoses pass into the lower section of the G/housing, below the Y pipe. Upon removal of our 20 year old unit I discovered that once water collects in this area it is permanently trapped and gradually corrodes the internal...

Could anyone confirm if a water pressure guage would be a worthwile addition and if I could just drill and tap the thermo housing?