The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

It sounds like it's the 260DG for dragster. Mine has the 2:20 and I should have mentioned that with the RPMs and engine size I have. I would think with the correct 2:20 gears and the 6.2 the 26" would be ideal. RByers has a 6.2(383) and if you PM him, he may volley in what his set up is.

Best of luck. I would put the $$ in the gears vs different props. If you have an issue, have your prop guy take them in trade.
 
Nehalennia, I have 60 more horses than you do so I can't understand how you can turn a 26P without having to achieve a too low rpm at WOT. I like your cruise numbers 27-28mph @3400-3500 rpm but you didn't mention WOT.

Phil
 
I believe, (it's been awhile), that my WOT is 4600, maybe 4800. If you have lower gears at 2:43 and lower props 22, then it makes sense that you're all messed up. The only mystery to me is why is your WOT not higher that 5K.
 
Bimini and Camper Top Joint

I hope this question doesn’t sound too dumb, but after owning my boat for 3-1/2 years, at long last I took the Bimini and camper tops off for the first time to wash them and reapply water repellent. The project went very smoothly, and everything is back on the boat all zipped up and looking great. One question remains though. The camper top zips to the Bimini top and there is a rubber tube on the camper top that looks like it could go under a flap on the Bimini top that covers the zipper. The flap is long enough to cover the rubber tube, and has a nicely formed edge that could fit over the tube, but then the tube might be located such that it keeps water from running up under the flap if the flap is positioned at the edge of the tube rather than covering it. I forgot to make comprehensive photos of it all before we took it all down, and I haven’t found any references yet as to what the ideal configuration looks like once it is all back up and in position. I would be grateful for any advice on this minor item. I also have a question on battery trickle charging and I am hoping that someone on Lake Wylie, South Carolina, could let me know how to contact them to mull this over, while looking in the engine compartment of my boat.


Many thanks,
Jan
 
Jan, the bimini "flap" is meant to go over the zipper to help prevent water ingress. It doesn't always stay put, though - sometimes it curls up out of the way.

I'm not on Lake Wylie, but basically the OEM charger is a "turn it on and forget about it" device. Whenever possible, turn the charger (labelled "converter" on the MDP) on and leave it on 24/7.
 
We have the same rubber tube across the top of the camper top and I always thought that the flap was supposed to go over the tube. When we replaced the entire top last year from Great Lakes, I expected that we would be able to get the flap to go over the tube again (figured that the old canvas just shrunk)... but alas it was not to be... even the brand new top, the flap won't stay over the black tube and it ends up being pushed back and sitting in front of it.
 
Anyone know where to find replacement windshield wipers? No one seems to sell refills anymore and the last two I ordered online as refills ended up being the whole wiper arm.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
rbryn said:
Anyone know where to find replacement windshield wipers? No one seems to sell refills anymore and the last two I ordered online as refills ended up being the whole wiper arm.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You can buy the refills at Walmart or AutoZone. I use Rained refills and they're perfect.
 
Hello all!

Does anyone have an idea how long a 6 gallon hot water heater should last on a 2004 should last in a 260 used in salt water?

I just lost mine after almost 10 seasons and wanted to know if it could have been more of A winterization issue or just salt water taking it's toll..
 
wood136 said:
Hello all!

Does anyone have an idea how long a 6 gallon hot water heater should last on a 2004 should last in a 260 used in salt water?

I just lost mine after almost 10 seasons and wanted to know if it could have been more of A winterization issue or just salt water taking it's toll..
Click to expand...

B.matt said:
10 seasons in salt water sounds pretty good.
Click to expand...

Yes if raw water is passing through it then 10 years is a long life. If it's FWC (Fresh water cooled, or closed cooled) then it should still be ticking.
 
I have a 2000 260, and have a trim issue. It is a factory Bennett set up. I have a leak on the port side in the bilge area. I hear a gurgling at the point it goes through the transom, and there has been some fluid pooling behind the hot water heater. Does anyone have schematic of the system? The factory manual is less than desirable for this job. All of the threads and articles talk about fixing the actuator that is in the water, but not the portion that is in the bilge.
 
Last edited:
boobad00 said:
I have a 2000 260, and have a trim issue. It is a factory Bennett set up. I have a leak on the port side in the bilge area. I hear a gurgling at the point it goes through the transom, and there has been some fluid pooling behind the hot water heater. Does anyone have schematic of the system? The factory manual is less than desirable for this job. All of the threads and articles talk about fixing the actuator that is in the water, but not the portion that is in the bilge.
Click to expand...

It may be best to start a new thread as it's not an issue exclusive for our models. Start the thread with "TABMAN" in the title. Tom from Bennett peruses the forum looking for issues and his advice is always sound. Good luck.
 
boobad00 said:
I have a 2000 260, and have a trim issue. It is a factory Bennett set up. I have a leak on the port side in the bilge area. I hear a gurgling at the point it goes through the transom, and there has been some fluid pooling behind the hot water heater. Does anyone have schematic of the system? The factory manual is less than desirable for this job. All of the threads and articles talk about fixing the actuator that is in the water, but not the portion that is in the bilge.
Click to expand...

The plastic line screws onto the 90* brass fitting. The 90* fitting screws onto a short nipple (pipe). The pipe goes through the transom and screws into the upper hinge (the piece of the cylinder that is on the outside of the boat, at the top... ie, the piece that is connected to the transom). Remove the plastic line and tighten the nipple a little bit -- just a bit -- a turn +/- tighter than by hand. The pipe is screwing into nylon/plastic. That should fix it.
 
Lazy Daze said:
The plastic line screws onto the 90* brass fitting. The 90* fitting screws onto a short nipple (pipe). The pipe goes through the transom and screws into the upper hinge (the piece of the cylinder that is on the outside of the boat, at the top... ie, the piece that is connected to the transom). Remove the plastic line and tighten the nipple a little bit -- just a bit -- a turn +/- tighter than by hand. The pipe is screwing into nylon/plastic. That should fix it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, I will give that a try the next time I am out at the boat!

-Brad
 
Lazy Daze said:
I put in a new radio last year. I didn't look around extensively, but I wasn't having any luck finding a new radio that would work with the current remote. Then I figured "no big deal, I'll just run a new wire for the new remote"... Wrong! I found out the remote wire is run underneath the headliner (just forward of the companionway door). I lost interest at that point and now the remote on the dash is just there for good looks. I believe the "easiest" way to run the wire would be to first run it down the starboard side into the engine room, then across to the port side and forward to the breaker closet. Not really all that hard, but I didn't really care about the remote so I didn't do it.
Click to expand...

rabyers1 said:
"Do you know where that remote wire runs. I have the remote on my dash but it doesn't work. I lowered the panel under the dash to upgrade the VHF and noticed the remote has a bundle of wires comming out of it that just end in a connector. I can't find the other end of that connector ?"

I finally got around to installing my new Clarion M309 this weekend. I also put in the MW1 wired remote at the same time and a Sirius SCC1 satellite tuner.

I am very pleased with it overall as it now gives me a USB connection for my IPOD along with satellite radio, a CD player and an AM/FM tuner. Here are the things I found out / decisions I made during the install;

1. Prices. Got the M309 & MW1 as a package deal (new in manufacturers sealed wrap, MW1 25' cable included) for $325.00 on ebay. Paid another $70.00 at Best Buy for the Sirius tuner.

2. M309 Installation. The unit basically fit into the opening where my factory Clarion unit was located in the electrical control panel in the cabin - with a little play. I modified the bracket that comes with the stereo by adding some 90 degree tabs to fasten the radio in the slot and then I also built a small wooden shelf behind (inside) the electrical panel for the M309 to sit on. The M309 is deeper than the CMD1 (has a large heat sink on the rear) so in order for the radio to fit all the way into the space I had to move the 110V wiring harness (ziptied cable bundle) down an inch and re-attach to the back wall of the cabinet. In order to get all of this done I had to remove the switch/breaker panel located below the radio location, which leaves a large opening to gain access to the inside of the electrical cabinet. The M309 is a direct plug-n-play with the boat's existing wiring harness for the electical supply and speakers. Using the existing radio antenna was no problem either. I have tested every function on the M309, including balance and fade of the factory speakers and it all works perfectly using the factory connections. The M309 has a removable faceplate, with a carrying case, if you choose to remove that from the boat for some added security while away. I am pleased overall with the mounting of the M309 in the space, using the brackets I fabricated, but I still have to fashion a little flat trim plate to clean up the finish as the one supplied with the M309 is no larger than the dimensions of the unit itself.

Satellite Tuner. The Sirius SCC1 has a direct cable connection with the M309, with a generous amount of supplied cable. I simply made that connection and then mounted the SCC1 to the left-hand side wall of the electrical cabinet, down adjacent to where the switch/breaker panel is mounted. There is plenty of clearance in there for it.

MW1 Remote. This was the most difficult part of the install. I started by removing the port side paneling in the adjacent aft-cabin (has the mirror on it) and the trim piece that goes across the top of the threshold (holds the track for the sliding accordian privacy curtain). I then removed the panel above the aft cabin doorway. With all these out I could see workable paths for the wired remote cable, the satellite antenna and the USB connection cable end. For the MW1 remote - I ran the cable out of the left side of the electrical cabinet into the opening behind the removed aft-cabin (mirrored) panel. There is a large opening between those two spaces so no drilling was necessary. Then at the back upper corner of the aft cabin (still port side) - there is an opening thru that bulkhead to the engine compartment that has several electrical cables going thru it and is stuffed with silicone caulk. I was able to pretty easily use my fingers to work an opening thru the caulk that was big enough to push the cable thru into the engine compartment (right above the water heater). Inside the engine compartment I ran the cable directly across the backside of that bulkhead from port to starboard, zip tying it at various places to the existing cable run along the top of the bulkhead. On the starboard side I was able to then push the cable up thru an opening into the back of the cockpit sink cabinet (opening is above the holding tank - didn't know it was there as it is covered by the carpet lining the floor of the cabinet). At that point I had to drill my first hole for this cable. I removed the starboard side cuddy that is located next to the helm under the shift/throttle. That creates a large access area and from there I was able to get a drill into the right side to bore a hole thru to the inside rear corner of the cockpit sink cabinet. I then fished the MW1 cable thru that space, zip tying it to the existing cable run. At the front end of that cuddy, there is direct access around the corner into the instrument panel. I found I had about 3 - 4 feet of cable to spare. At this point all I had to do was mount the MW1 and make the connection. As the MW1 remote is quite a bit larger in diameter than the factory remote, I did decide not to carve up the instrument panel where the old remote lies, but instead I left that in place and cut a new hole in the lower right access panel of the helm and mounted it there. I tested it on the water yesterday and was very pleased with access/operation in that location and the increased shading from the sun on the somewhat weak digital display of the remote. Functionally, the MW1 works great. I also left the old wired remote cable in place (wherever it may run).

Wireless Remote. The wireless remote that comes with the M309 works to control the MW1 as well as the M309 unit itself. So, you can use the wireless remote from anywhere in the cockpit or the cabin. The family loves this new toy.

Satellite Antenna. For this I decided to mount it on the angled section of the cockpit bulkhead by the front companion seat just above the back cushion (port side adjacent to the cabin sliding door). To do this, I looosened the 4 nuts that hold that back cushion to the bulkhead and pushed a block of wood in there to create a temporary space. Then I drilled a hole thru the bulkhead from the cabin side for the antenna wire. (actually two holes side-by-side to create an oval opening to fit the 90 degree cable connector thru). I then fished the antenna cable thru that hole from the cockpit side and ran it down to the satellite tuner in the electrical cabinet below (thru the same opening that I had fished the MW1 cable thru earlier). Then I caulked in the hole I drilled. I left just some of the antenna cable behind the cushion just in case I had to later move the antenna to a more open spot, but found that it receives the signal just fine being mounted only about two inches above the top of that cushion (which leaves just a very small amount of antenna wire showing). I mounted the antenna to the bulkhead using two-way tape.

USB connection. The M309 comes with about a two foot cable connected at the rear with a USB port on the outbound end. I simply brought that cable up thru the same opening on the top right hand side of the electical cabinet and left it lay on the shelf above. Once I replaced all of the trim pieces, I wound up having the cable coming out of the left hand corner with just an couple of inches showing along with the USB port. It is very easy to then plug in the IPOD and let it just sit up on that shelf. Once you plug your IPOD in the M309 takes over all functionality and charges the IPOD battery at the same time, so there is no reason to touch your IPOD, except to remember to disconnect it and take it with you when you leave the boat.

Old CD player. I just left it installed in its factory location for now as it really isn't in the way of anything. It does not connect directly to the M309 and I don't really see having much use for it so I didn't spend any time exploring ways to connect it. For the few times we play a CD, I think the single player in the M309 will work just fine.

All in all this was a great upgrade for us from the circa 2000 factory system and really wasn't as difficult an install as I was fearing. I estimate that I put about 8-9 hours into it. A solid 2 hours of that was figuring out and messing with those aft cabin panels / trim pieces. Of course, I am just too big and old to work well in that space, especially as it was 92 degrees and very humid here on Saturday.
​
Click to expand...


Dennis and Robin
I want to thank you for the information on this. Seattleite and I have become friends and I've helped him get acclimated to his new to him 2002 260DA. It's a very nice, clean and well kept boat. He found a great one.
Anyway I just installed a Clarion M303 head unit and XMD1 remote. I used a glowstick to pull the new remote cable through from stereo cabinet to the engine bay. The factory remote was routed this way also. I didn't have to take any of the mid-cabin apart. I just removed most of the silicone sealant, ran the glowstick in and pulled back the new remote extension cable. I then ran it across the engine bay bulkhead, zip tying it along the way and drilled a new hole above the other group of wires and sealed it all back up on both sides with new silicone.

It turned out great and the remote does fit on the helm. I had to redrill the main panel though to remove the recessed pocket and allow the 3" dia base to set flush.

Panel partially removed.



I drilled the hole offset with a 3" hole saw to the right of the recessed pocket. This aligned the 3" hole in the panel to the 3" hole already in the helm.


Back view of the remote installed


Done


Now I think I'll be doing this on my boat. I was impressed with the Bluetooth capabilities of the stereo. It worked great.
 
I'll be doing this to my boat soon and am glad I don't have to pull apart the mid-cabin, but the engine bay yoga was fun.
 
I did this last year and the only thing I really disliked after the install was how bright that remote is at night. Ended up finding some red cello tape to put over it.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Donewith - I just noticed this discussion and Todd's last item on it "Mine has the 2:20 and I should have mentioned that with the RPMs and engine size I have. I would think with the correct 2:20 gears and the 6.2 the 26" would be ideal. RByers has a 6.2(383) and if you PM him, he may volley in what his set up is.

Best of luck. I would put the $$ in the gears vs different props. If you have an issue, have your prop guy take them in trade." I know that it has been a few weeks and you may have already ordered/changed props or gone after new gears, but for what it's worth, here my numbers. I put a mercruiser 383 stroker in my 2001 260da a couple of years ago. The motor is the equivalent of the 6.2 mpi, as it is a stroked out 5.7 small block. Specs are 350 H.P. and (I think) 390 torque with W.O.T. of 4800 - 5200 when coupled to an outdrive. I run the original bravo 3 with 2.20 gear ratio that came in my boat from the factory along with the original 24P props. With about a half tank of fuel and half tank of water and myself, my wife and 3 little ones (let's say 450 lbs. of human payload) and a typical boatload full of family gear, I can get W.O.T to just over 4900 RPMs. At that, I will be running about 41 mph on the GPS. With a lighter load, I can push it to about 5K and 42-43MPH. My boat does have ablative bottom paint and it is none too smooth, so that affects top-end somewhat. I don't go W.O.T. very often, but I do like to get up on plane rather quickly. With the stroker's big torque curve (for a small block anyway) my boat really jumps on plane effortlessly with the 2.20s and the 24p's. I cruise at about 23 MPH at around 3200 - 3300 RPM depending on payload and can usually run 28 to 30 MPH all day long at around 3800 RPM. Most of my boating is in the ICW, so it is typically a mix of somewhat flat to wake-choppy (more wake choppy on the weekends).
 
Last edited:
Rabyers1, Thanks for giving a shout out, Todd gave me a different name accidently so I could not find you previously. I had a choice to make so talked to 2 mechanics and we basically hashed it out with all the boats they've worked on and drove and decided to go with a 2.0 gear ratio and try the 22 prop then if too big get a used 20. They too stated that the 6.2 is a decider because of the extra performance. We have access to a 20 but I just can't test it now because of me training for the Masters (Senior) track and field competitions (pole vaulting) and bike race training with my 4 races (2 time trials and 2 road races) in 10 days .... plus I have to work on my old 2350 Chaparral to get it out of my back yard and sell to recoup so money.
Also am trying to decide how to configure some new carpeting from Corinthian.. just got a template sent yesterday ...... so I got things to do ...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,172
Messages
1,427,834
Members
61,084
Latest member
AntonioJamm
Back
Top