Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Unfortunately I don't have photos and didn't see it. Surveyor saw it this morning since it was on blocks, I didn't look at it in great detail when I saw the boat and just noticed that there are no photos of them online. Just curious on peoples thoughts.
 
Bravo III drives are known for corrosion issues, if in doubt get it checked by mercruiser tech, in bad cases they can need to be replaced if its just minor then a bit of refinishing may be all that is required
 
Re: Newbie

Just closed on a 2005 280 Sundancer last week. Took "Miss Millie" out for the first time last Sunday and it was such a HUGE relief to finally say we were the new owners. First time backing into the slip was a little tricky, but so many people offered such great advice so it only required one turn-around! Ha! That noted, we plan to celebrate this weekend (Memorial Day) by staying out for 2-3 days. It seems like our packing list keeps growing, but I'm interested in knowing if there's anything that you would recommend to NOT FORGET?? I'm so paranoid over things like batteries running down or the CO build-up within the cabin. Am I paranoid or just trying to be a good, safe boater? Either way, I just want to have a great time with the DW and not screw this weekend up. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated - even the most common sense ones!!:huh:
 
Re: Newbie

Lots of luck with the new boat, and welcome to CSR. One thing that I always carry is one of those battery booster packs. I have one at home and one on the boat. Also, how old are the batteries? That was the first thing I had to replace in my boat, and might not be a bad idea to start with a fresh set of batteries. I buy the Costco marine batteries, and they are a good value. I had used Optima on prior boats, but heard their quality has gone down. Anyway, enjoy the 280.

Oh, I hear you about the hard time backing in the slip. Mine is a single screw, and I'd sure love a bow thruster for those windy days.
 
Re: Newbie

I'd get 1 or 2 of the portable CO detectors if you're going to run the genny at night. Don't rely soley on the hardwired one that came with the boat. Alot of ice and beers are a no brainer!
 
TheBigb said:
Hey Everyone,

I'm getting a "non critical engine alarm" for "Engine Trim Sensor." When i click more info it reads engine trim sensor not working properly. Its only the starboard engine and only comes on when I go above 4,000 RPM's or make a sharper turn. Anyone have experience with this?
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Usually this means the trim sensors need to be replaced. We had the same problem on our 280. Everything worked but the error got annoying. I had the dealer install new pucks as part of the end-of-year maintenance as the boat needs to be out of the water for this.
 
Just purchased a 2001 280 and during inspection found the sliding window above the aft berth to be very hard to slide. Any recommendations for the right lube? Silicone spray?
Thanks
 
Re: Newbie

Ice and beer.......no worries. They were the first thing on the list!! Went round and round on the CO detectors - marine versus house. Bottom line, I got another one and feel good about it. My survey recommended replacing the hardwired one, but that one will come with the next month's budget!
 
Hate to ask this one as it really seems too stinking simple. How do you change the light bulbs on the swivel lights? Do you pop the clear, plastic cover off the front or is there another secret to getting to the bulb? Cue the "how many boaters does it take to change a light bulb" jokes..................
 
joandj1 said:
Hate to ask this one as it really seems too stinking simple. How do you change the light bulbs on the swivel lights? Do you pop the clear, plastic cover off the front or is there another secret to getting to the bulb? Cue the "how many boaters does it take to change a light bulb" jokes..................
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If it's like mine it pulls apart at the silverish plastic joint between the front and back halves. The clear plexy shield in the front doesn't come out.
 
jason78 said:
OK, here are the grill pics. I thought long and hard about where to install this grill before doing so. I could not mount it to either gunwale behind the arch because I frequently have boats tied up to me and would not want to cook over someone else’s boat. Also, could not pedestal mount it under the swim platform lid like some do because I wanted my platform ladder and platform to be accessible to the kids at all times. Given all these conditions, this was about the only way to do it. So far I am glad I did it this way. I used it last summer with no problems. It is tight on the platform when cooking but the platform and ladder remain useable and the kids can carefully get around the grill and in to the boat. I have not had any grease drips but I plan to have my canvas guy make a "bib" to lay down on the transom under the grill. It will have a hole in it that the grill mount arm will go through. The mount pivots to provide different angles. Seems like there is no perfect place to mount these grills so you just have to consider all conditions and do the best you can. This is the Standard Magma Kettle 2 with Magma Flush Mount. I have a canvas cover and store it under the cockpit sink.
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Jason, I know this post is super old but I had a question. Does your grill fit in the under sink compartment with the stock cooler in there as well?
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Thanks.....
 
jason78 said:
Might be a bad connection or fixture or just cheap bulbs? I switched to LED fixtures and are very happy with them. I went with the Attwood 3500 Series 2NM lights as they are the direct replacement (basically same footprint) as the OEM Attwoods. I also changed the masthead light to Attwood LED and am very happy with that.

Some people have just put an LED bulb in the fixture. I will do that on inside lights all day long but it is obvious the OEM fixtures leak so really dont want water leaking in on LED bulbs that are as critical as NAV lights are.

Here are the links to West marine for reference but you can likely find them cheaper elsewhere.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...Id=-1&searchKeyword=attwood+3500#.Uly2IVPmKZQ


http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...&subdeptNum=50580&classNum=50581#.Uly3LVPmKZQ
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Jason - Does the Atwood Mast Light in your link uses the same screw holes as the old light?
 
Hey,

2 Questions on the Galley light. Why does it have its own switch separate from the others? Mine seems to not always work. I don't think its the bulb because I've taken the bulb out and put it back in and it lights up fine. I come back an hour later and its not working. I tap on the housing and it comes on. What would be loose in there?
 
saopm said:
Jason - Does the Atwood Mast Light in your link uses the same screw holes as the old light?
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The mount uses the same screw holes from a "space apart" standpoint. Based on the placement of the drilled wire hole from the factory on mine I had to redrill the screw holes to make it work right and use the old wire hole. Then had the old holes filled with gel coat. I put the same light on a 340 (that had the same OEM Perko) and all 3 of his holes lined up right (as I recall).

Just make sure when you install, you place it so the Chrome Attwood logo faces forward. The instructions were at one time a bit unclear. I believe they have updated them.
 
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TheBigb said:
Hey,

2 Questions on the Galley light. Why does it have its own switch separate from the others? Mine seems to not always work. I don't think its the bulb because I've taken the bulb out and put it back in and it lights up fine. I come back an hour later and its not working. I tap on the housing and it comes on. What would be loose in there?
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Do you have the AC/DC Dual Galley light with 2 bulbs in it or just a DC Bulb? I know some of the earlier boats have the dual fixture, including mine but not sure when they went away from that.
 
jason78 said:
Do you have the AC/DC Dual Galley light with 2 bulbs in it or just a DC Bulb? I know some of the earlier boats have the dual fixture, including mine but not sure when they went away from that.
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Hey,
When I took the cover off there was just one bulb with two prongs. Its a 2008 so maybe just AC?
 
TheBigb said:
Hey,
When I took the cover off there was just one bulb with two prongs. Its a 2008 so maybe just AC?
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If it has two prongs and is only one bulb I would expect it is a DC light. I can't imangine they would have gone with an AC only. The AC/DC model has two bulbs. The AC bulb is similar to a night light bulb with a strange european base.

I would suspect the socket is having issues. If it was left on for days at some point maybe it got hot and messed with the connections. Assuming it is 12V, my first try woudl be to switch it to a LED replacement bulb. If it still does not work reliably, you may need to consider replacing the socket or fixture.
 
jason78 said:
If it has two prongs and is only one bulb I would expect it is a DC light. I can't imangine they would have gone with an AC only. The AC/DC model has two bulbs. The AC bulb is similar to a night light bulb with a strange european base.

I would suspect the socket is having issues. If it was left on for days at some point maybe it got hot and messed with the connections. Assuming it is 12V, my first try woudl be to switch it to a LED replacement bulb. If it still does not work reliably, you may need to consider replacing the socket or fixture.
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I still wonder why it has its own switch? Aren't the other lights all DC anyway? I think your right though on fixture. I'm going to try another bulb and see if that makes a difference, as that light does get very hot.
 
TheBigb said:
I still wonder why it has its own switch? Aren't the other lights all DC anyway? I think your right though on fixture. I'm going to try another bulb and see if that makes a difference, as that light does get very hot.
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Every DC light in my cabin has it's own switch. The "master" switch is on the wall just inside the sliding door but every other DC wall or ceiling light has it's own switch so it can be turned on/off individually. In my case with the AC/DC Galley light, I have 2 switches just under the galley cabinet, one for the AC and one for the DC bulb. The LED bub will also solve the problem of it getting too hot.
 
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