240 Sundeck Thread - Questions and Answers

Water depth

New to this forum,but anyways we are getting an 01 sundeck 240 ,and I was wondering if I need a certain water depth before I try to get up on plain.
 
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Re: Water depth

New to this forum,but anyways we are getting an 01 sundeck 240 ,and I was wondering if I need a certain water depth before I try to get up on plain.

Your going to need to expand on your question a little, not sure what you are asking. The normal draft is going to be about 42"+-.
 
Re: Water depth

How deep of water 3ft, 4ft, before I try to get it up on plain.
 
Re: Water depth

How deep of water 3ft, 4ft, before I try to get it up on plain.

With the draft being 42+-" IMHO you need to stay out of 3' of water. (grin) I would like at least 3 or 4 feet below me if I'm going to be running at planning speed so say 7' or 8' of water???
 
Re: Water depth

I agree with Chuck. I set my depth alarm at 10 ft. and do not like getting much less that 8 ft. Love my sundeck too much to mess her up. Also....had an experience in deep water where I hit some trash just below the surface early last season. Cost me about $2800 for a new upper gear set.
 
Drain Plugs

I have the 3 point drain system. Every spring I dread reinstalling the lower drain plug in the photo attached. You have to be a contortionist to reach the hole let alone start the plug. Has anyone come up with a better way to deal with the plugs. Has anyone done anything like a petcock or something else instead of the plug. Just curious.

NewPicture.png
 
We purchased our 2007 240 Sundeck new in 07 after trading in our 01 210 Sundeck. After 2 seasons the Bravo3 was so corroded it was replaced under warranty VERY RELUCTANTLY by our dealer and they basically told me I am on my own and don't come back with any problems. They never tested the drive in the water for electrolysis at our marina like they were supposed to (told us too bad). Now, two seasons later, the replacement drive is worse the the original! Whole pieces are flaking right off. Now, I will say that we maintain our boat and the drive properly with the correct paint and anode replacements every season. Many people have told us back then and now that it is most likely an issue with the Mercathode or a wiring issue from the factory but our dealer would never say if that was the case and the paperwork said nothing about that (which I had to fight to get a copy of). The dealer keeps telling us that our location is a "hot bed for electrolysis and Bravo III problems". I have been at the same marina for many years and NO ONE has ever had an issue that bad with a B3 and no one is currently having their anodes look so badly corroded. At the end of each season they are completely shot. I think I need to have an independent Mercruiser dealer diagnose the problem and bring that info to our selling dealer. After doing a lot of searching out on the net I have a found a few cases similar to mine and they all had to do with incorrect wiring from the factory.
Has anyone else had this issue with their 240 Sundeck with a B3 drive???
 
I have the same model 240SD. I would call Mercury direct and talk to them. That is what I had to do to get a warranty issue straight.
 
Drain Plugs

I have the 3 point drain system. Every spring I dread reinstalling the lower drain plug in the photo attached. You have to be a contortionist to reach the hole let alone start the plug. Has anyone come up with a better way to deal with the plugs. Has anyone done anything like a petcock or something else instead of the plug. Just curious.
I have the 496 and I can easily see mine. I just replaced the water pump impeller and thought it was going to be worst than it was. I don't even know what you call it, but do you remove your fiberglass cowling under the rear seat for better access?
 
I have the same model 240SD. I would call Mercury direct and talk to them. That is what I had to do to get a warranty issue straight.

Did you have a corrosion issue with your B3 also? I am supposed to be talking with the MarineMax regional service manager tomorrow about the situation. I am definitely going to talk to Mercury directly and I am also planning on having a different authorized Mercruiser dealer do a full test and diagnosis on the electrical system and the Mercathode system.
 
My boat stays in dry storage when not in use. my problem was a bad raw water pump. The pump shaft snapped in two and had to be replaced. Dealer took four weeks to fix, including the fourth of July week. I had the engine serviced while they were working on the boat. They tried to bill me for the whole job stating warranty was up. I had to contact Mercury about the warranty.

Mercury does not like dealers giving them a bad name.

Drain Plugs

I have the 3 point drain system. Every spring I dread reinstalling the lower drain plug in the photo attached. You have to be a contortionist to reach the hole let alone start the plug. Has anyone come up with a better way to deal with the plugs. Has anyone done anything like a petcock or something else instead of the plug. Just curious.

NewPicture.png

After having the above raw water pump replaced, I tried to winterize the boat at the end of the season. It was my first time and I had to locate the plugs. When I first touched the lower plug it fell out and went under the engine. Went to WM and got a replacement. It took two hours to get that plug back in and 6 months for my elbow to stop hurting! I removed the front fiberglass of the engine compartment which helped some. Thankfully the plug did not fall out while under way. Next time I just plan on removing the pump, drain, replace the impeller and reinstall. Have also thought about installing the Winterizer system, but if I replace the impeller yearly then the Winterizer would be of little help.
 
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I am trying to figure out better propping for our 240 Sundeck with 5.0MPI and 2.20 Bravo III. We are always boating very light. Two adults, one 4 year old and only light gear. Ours is currently propped with a 22 pitch non-cupped set and tops out at 46.6 mph @5200 rpm on the GPS. I have seen the 240SD with 5.0 propped with 22, 24 and 26 pitch B III props.

What props do you run on your 240SD and have you repropped.

My objective is to get a bit more speed at same RPM. Would love to cruise 30 mph around 3000 rpm.

Help appreciated!
 
Re: 2004 240 Sundeck, lost seat cushion, any ideas where to get a new replacement?

Hello, I have an 04' 240 Sundeck that I had out this weekend. I almost always tow with the covers on, but this time we were in a rush so I didn't put them on. Got home and saw the engine cover up, and I lost one of my seat cushions. Drove the road back and it was no where to be found. I want to purchase a new replacement through my dealer, but the initial answer I got was that SeaRay wont make a seat new seat cushion for any boats over 5 years old. My boat is immaculate and looks brand new, it's making me sick that I lost the cushion :smt021:smt021. My dealer is going to make another call to SeaRay to se if they can get one made for me or get a pattern or something. I'm trying to be proactive here and see if anyone else has gone through this or knows of another source in case my dealer can't get one for me. I'm really surprised that SeaRay would stop having availability on something like this after only 5 years???? Does anyone know if the seats are the same in later years, or when they made a design change? In case it matters this is the seat on the port side of the boat just behind the bucket seat (boat has the twin captains bucket seat layout). Any help would really be appreciated. Thanks.

Dave
 
Re: Thermostat replacement Bravo 3, 6.2 how difficult (2004 240 sundeck)?

If you are talking about the engine thermostat, which I think you are talking about, on every General Motors OHV V-8 engine I have had the thermostat is located at the forward top end of the intake manifold. Looking down on the engine there is a cover which has a couple of black coolant hoses attached to, it is held down by two bolts. Remove those bolts, lift the cover free and there sits the thermostat. Be sure and install the same one(same temp) and a new gasket. I always lightly apply anti-sieze to the threads of the bolts and use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts. It is about a 20 minute job. Simple if you have a raw water cooled system, not sure of stuff in the way on a closed cooling system. Oh, be sure and use a marine grade thermostat if you boat in salt water, auto types will rust up in that enviroment.
 
Re: Water depth

Re: Thermostat problem ?

Hi All,

My Toy is a 2007 Sundeck 240 5.0 Engine. Here is the problem, sounds simple but my Mechanic and I cant figure it out. Temp was running 175 F as it should, then it last week temp reading on both the Dashboard meter and the shipcraft was reading only 135 or so. So we replaced the thermostat..... mechanic said it was fine..... went for a spin , still only reading 135. I went to the head mechanic told him the problem and said maybe it was a bad replacement thermostat from the factory and replaced it. After it was replaced he and I both went for a sea trial and it went up to about 170 and he said all fixed.....

As we head back to the dock it drops back down to 135 degrees and he has no idea whats wrong. I suggested that maybe its the sensor, but he said the the dashboard analog meter and the shipcraft LCD meter are on two different sensors, so he doubt two sensors failed... so any ideas ? The boat also seems to be running a little sluggish, but that could be in my head, we were running WOT and only hitting 39 MPH with just the two of us.

Also, as a seperate issue, noticed that the lights on the round analog meters dont seem to be on, nor the light on the LCD for the shipcraft, tired all the switches on the dash and checked the fuses and cant seem to find out why the internal meter lights dont turn on. Makes it very tough when riding at noght :)

Thanks
Les
 
Re: Water depth

My guess on the termpaerature problem is that you sucked in some sand or grit at some point and it is preventing the thermostat from closing all the way to maintain the higher temperature (just 1 small piece of grit prevents it from fully sealing). I've been down this road 3 times with the exact same problem (after changing thermostats). If you look at the thermostat I'm betting you will find a small stone/grit either on the section where it closes off, or in the spring section. You can verify that you have a functional thermostat by taking it out and putting it in a pot of water on a stove and making sure it opens at your set temp. My boat is 160 degree. Can't help with the other items sorry.
 
Re: Water depth

We have tried 2 differnt thermosats in the last week and it apears its not the Thermostat, my Mechanic is puzzled
 
In my first boat which had a 3.0 115hp Mercruiser replacing the thermostat was a common occurance. But before I started replacing it myself I took it to my friend Doug who is a certified Mercury mechanic. He hooked up a seperate gauge directly to the engine and also used a heat gun to take temp readings before and after he replaced the thermostat. Are you sure it's not a bad gauge?
 
Thoughts 5.7L engine

I'm new to the forum and am looking to purchase my first Sea Ray. I'm currently looking at a 2006 240SD. Very clean boat with a 5.7L engine, not the more common 5.0MPI or 350MAG. The boat has a BravoIII drive. Based on my research, I pretty sure this engine is carbureted with TKS system. I will definitely confirm this next week.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this engine in the 240SD? Ideally, I wanted the 350MAG but don't want to pass on boat if it performs well with the 5.7L. I know that the 350ci engine is a workhorse motor, but it is actually rated at 10HP less than the 5.0MPI (250HP vs. 260HP). Owner says boat will run in the mid-40s MPH.

Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.
 
Who told you it had a 5.7 in it? Has it been repowered? I do not think the 5.7 was an options in 2006.
 

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