The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Anyone add an inverter to there 260? I'm going to be installing this one http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/inverter-chargers/freedom-hf.aspx but like most inverter/charges it is not ignition protected.
In order to keep it as close to the batteries as possible the only place I can see mounting it is on the inside wall of the mid cabin. Anyone else figure out a better place to mount one.

And a question for Tod on your GPS mount. I see from your carpet pics above that you have your GPS mounted on the left side of the helm near the cabin door. Any issues with this mounting location in terms of banging it every time you go to the helm or up the stairs to the foredeck?
 
Anyone add an inverter to there 260? I'm going to be installing this one http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/inverter-chargers/freedom-hf.aspx but like most inverter/charges it is not ignition protected.
In order to keep it as close to the batteries as possible the only place I can see mounting it is on the inside wall of the mid cabin. Anyone else figure out a better place to mount one.

And a question for Tod on your GPS mount. I see from your carpet pics above that you have your GPS mounted on the left side of the helm near the cabin door. Any issues with this mounting location in terms of banging it every time you go to the helm or up the stairs to the foredeck?

No I have not had any issues with the location of the GPS. I rivoted the base to the helm and it's worked perfectly. I have had zero issues.

On the inverter front, I just installed 2 - 6V golf cart batteries and have considered installing an inverter for minor things under the stereo and main breaker panel. Has anyone run cable on the port side of the boat from the engine bay to the breaker locker?
 
How big of an inverter are you going to install. I thought of that location but had three concerns.
1) the location is quite far from the batteries. lots of voltage drop on long cables if using an inverter of any power.
2) air flow in that area. Again depends on what power of inverter you have.
3) not sure the one I want to get will fit into that space.

Once it stops raining here I'm going to have another look so se it there are any other options.
 
How big of an inverter are you going to install. I thought of that location but had three concerns.
1) the location is quite far from the batteries. lots of voltage drop on long cables if using an inverter of any power.
2) air flow in that area. Again depends on what power of inverter you have.
3) not sure the one I want to get will fit into that space.

Once it stops raining here I'm going to have another look so se it there are any other options.

I really like the features of the Xantrex ProXM 1800.
Take pics if you peel any panels off of the port side. Thanks
 
Has anyone run cable on the port side of the boat from the engine bay to the breaker locker?

I have not, but... I seem to recall having the panel off sometime last year and noticing the wires dip down towards the engine room. I think with the hot water tank out of the way, it would be pretty simple with either a stiff fish or fiberglass rods. Might not even be to bad without removing the HWT, but I don't have the boat out of storage, yet, to take a better look.

You ran hoses on the starboard side for your heater? I would think the port side (only running wires) would be easier. Again, just a guess, but I would lean towards thinking that you wouldn't even have to dismantle the mid berth.
 
Yeah I ran the heater hoses for the hydronic heater on the starboard side in the void behind the mid-berth panel. I just don't know if the port side has a void over there?
 
Yeah I ran the heater hoses for the hydronic heater on the starboard side in the void behind the mid-berth panel. I just don't know if the port side has a void over there?

I don't know. I would guess that it is smaller. But, I think if you push a stiff tape through there, it will probably go through - just try to follow the wires. Tape the end of the tape so it doesn't catch on anything. It might take a few tries, but if it was me, I would give a shot before removing the panels. This is just an uneducated guess, of course, but I think it's worth a try. I think the hardest part will be pushing through all that goop.
 
I plan to take apart the breaker panel/locker in a few weeks and attempt a stereo upgrade. I'll have a look and take some pics.
 
I plan to take apart the breaker panel/locker in a few weeks and attempt a stereo upgrade. I'll have a look and take some pics.

You don't, by chance, have a dash mounted remote for the stereo that you'd like to re-use (or run another wire to ), do you?
 
Yes I have a remote on the dash. If I upgrade the stereo I'll have to upgrade that too. I haven't decided which unit to go with yet, but I'd at least like to get a unit that has a remote and iPod input. Currently my unit is the stock cassette with 6 disc CD changer. I'm not sure if I would have to run a new remote wire though.
 
Yes I have a remote on the dash. If I upgrade the stereo I'll have to upgrade that too. I haven't decided which unit to go with yet, but I'd at least like to get a unit that has a remote and iPod input. Currently my unit is the stock cassette with 6 disc CD changer. I'm not sure if I would have to run a new remote wire though.

I put in a new radio last year. I didn't look around extensively, but I wasn't having any luck finding a new radio that would work with the current remote. Then I figured "no big deal, I'll just run a new wire for the new remote"... Wrong! I found out the remote wire is run underneath the headliner (just forward of the companionway door). I lost interest at that point and now the remote on the dash is just there for good looks. I believe the "easiest" way to run the wire would be to first run it down the starboard side into the engine room, then across to the port side and forward to the breaker closet. Not really all that hard, but I didn't really care about the remote so I didn't do it.
 
Do you know where that remote wire runs. I have the remote on my dash but it doesn't work. I lowered the panel under the dash to upgrade the VHF and noticed the remote has a bundle of wires comming out of it that just end in a connector. I can't find the other end of that connector ?
 
As some of you may know Great Lakes Canvas do not have the HIN for the boats manufactured in Arizona. I would like to let all of you fellow 260 DA owners know that my boat was also made in Arizona and I took the risk and ordered the canvas from Marine Max (Great Lakes Canvas material). Everything Fits the same as the original canvas other than the aft curtain. As you can see in the pictures it is 2" short, but I will have my local canvas shop extend the aft canvas so it will fit. The zippers are all the same as the original and the size of the pieces are also the same. After I have the canvas shop extend the aft curtain I will still be $1,000 then if I had a canvas shop custom make the canvas for me.:smt021


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Andy,
If you're spending the money....have your canvas guy make that aft section a camper canvas. That makes that entire cockpit area usable.
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There is nothing worse than sitting back on the aft seat with guests and having the slant back canvas not allowing you to sit up.
 
I think I might have the camper canvas done. As is there is not enough room in the cockpit.
 
"Do you know where that remote wire runs. I have the remote on my dash but it doesn't work. I lowered the panel under the dash to upgrade the VHF and noticed the remote has a bundle of wires comming out of it that just end in a connector. I can't find the other end of that connector ?"

I finally got around to installing my new Clarion M309 this weekend. I also put in the MW1 wired remote at the same time and a Sirius SCC1 satellite tuner.

I am very pleased with it overall as it now gives me a USB connection for my IPOD along with satellite radio, a CD player and an AM/FM tuner. Here are the things I found out / decisions I made during the install;

1. Prices. Got the M309 & MW1 as a package deal (new in manufacturers sealed wrap, MW1 25' cable included) for $325.00 on ebay. Paid another $70.00 at Best Buy for the Sirius tuner.

2. M309 Installation. The unit basically fit into the opening where my factory Clarion unit was located in the electrical control panel in the cabin - with a little play. I modified the bracket that comes with the stereo by adding some 90 degree tabs to fasten the radio in the slot and then I also built a small wooden shelf behind (inside) the electrical panel for the M309 to sit on. The M309 is deeper than the CMD1 (has a large heat sink on the rear) so in order for the radio to fit all the way into the space I had to move the 110V wiring harness (ziptied cable bundle) down an inch and re-attach to the back wall of the cabinet. In order to get all of this done I had to remove the switch/breaker panel located below the radio location, which leaves a large opening to gain access to the inside of the electrical cabinet. The M309 is a direct plug-n-play with the boat's existing wiring harness for the electical supply and speakers. Using the existing radio antenna was no problem either. I have tested every function on the M309, including balance and fade of the factory speakers and it all works perfectly using the factory connections. The M309 has a removable faceplate, with a carrying case, if you choose to remove that from the boat for some added security while away. I am pleased overall with the mounting of the M309 in the space, using the brackets I fabricated, but I still have to fashion a little flat trim plate to clean up the finish as the one supplied with the M309 is no larger than the dimensions of the unit itself.

Satellite Tuner. The Sirius SCC1 has a direct cable connection with the M309, with a generous amount of supplied cable. I simply made that connection and then mounted the SCC1 to the left-hand side wall of the electrical cabinet, down adjacent to where the switch/breaker panel is mounted. There is plenty of clearance in there for it.

MW1 Remote. This was the most difficult part of the install. I started by removing the port side paneling in the adjacent aft-cabin (has the mirror on it) and the trim piece that goes across the top of the threshold (holds the track for the sliding accordian privacy curtain). I then removed the panel above the aft cabin doorway. With all these out I could see workable paths for the wired remote cable, the satellite antenna and the USB connection cable end. For the MW1 remote - I ran the cable out of the left side of the electrical cabinet into the opening behind the removed aft-cabin (mirrored) panel. There is a large opening between those two spaces so no drilling was necessary. Then at the back upper corner of the aft cabin (still port side) - there is an opening thru that bulkhead to the engine compartment that has several electrical cables going thru it and is stuffed with silicone caulk. I was able to pretty easily use my fingers to work an opening thru the caulk that was big enough to push the cable thru into the engine compartment (right above the water heater). Inside the engine compartment I ran the cable directly across the backside of that bulkhead from port to starboard, zip tying it at various places to the existing cable run along the top of the bulkhead. On the starboard side I was able to then push the cable up thru an opening into the back of the cockpit sink cabinet (opening is above the holding tank - didn't know it was there as it is covered by the carpet lining the floor of the cabinet). At that point I had to drill my first hole for this cable. I removed the starboard side cuddy that is located next to the helm under the shift/throttle. That creates a large access area and from there I was able to get a drill into the right side to bore a hole thru to the inside rear corner of the cockpit sink cabinet. I then fished the MW1 cable thru that space, zip tying it to the existing cable run. At the front end of that cuddy, there is direct access around the corner into the instrument panel. I found I had about 3 - 4 feet of cable to spare. At this point all I had to do was mount the MW1 and make the connection. As the MW1 remote is quite a bit larger in diameter than the factory remote, I did decide not to carve up the instrument panel where the old remote lies, but instead I left that in place and cut a new hole in the lower right access panel of the helm and mounted it there. I tested it on the water yesterday and was very pleased with access/operation in that location and the increased shading from the sun on the somewhat weak digital display of the remote. Functionally, the MW1 works great. I also left the old wired remote cable in place (wherever it may run).

Wireless Remote. The wireless remote that comes with the M309 works to control the MW1 as well as the M309 unit itself. So, you can use the wireless remote from anywhere in the cockpit or the cabin. The family loves this new toy.

Satellite Antenna. For this I decided to mount it on the angled section of the cockpit bulkhead by the front companion seat just above the back cushion (port side adjacent to the cabin sliding door). To do this, I looosened the 4 nuts that hold that back cushion to the bulkhead and pushed a block of wood in there to create a temporary space. Then I drilled a hole thru the bulkhead from the cabin side for the antenna wire. (actually two holes side-by-side to create an oval opening to fit the 90 degree cable connector thru). I then fished the antenna cable thru that hole from the cockpit side and ran it down to the satellite tuner in the electrical cabinet below (thru the same opening that I had fished the MW1 cable thru earlier). Then I caulked in the hole I drilled. I left just some of the antenna cable behind the cushion just in case I had to later move the antenna to a more open spot, but found that it receives the signal just fine being mounted only about two inches above the top of that cushion (which leaves just a very small amount of antenna wire showing). I mounted the antenna to the bulkhead using two-way tape.

USB connection. The M309 comes with about a two foot cable connected at the rear with a USB port on the outbound end. I simply brought that cable up thru the same opening on the top right hand side of the electical cabinet and left it lay on the shelf above. Once I replaced all of the trim pieces, I wound up having the cable coming out of the left hand corner with just an couple of inches showing along with the USB port. It is very easy to then plug in the IPOD and let it just sit up on that shelf. Once you plug your IPOD in the M309 takes over all functionality and charges the IPOD battery at the same time, so there is no reason to touch your IPOD, except to remember to disconnect it and take it with you when you leave the boat.

Old CD player. I just left it installed in its factory location for now as it really isn't in the way of anything. It does not connect directly to the M309 and I don't really see having much use for it so I didn't spend any time exploring ways to connect it. For the few times we play a CD, I think the single player in the M309 will work just fine.

All in all this was a great upgrade for us from the circa 2000 factory system and really wasn't as difficult an install as I was fearing. I estimate that I put about 8-9 hours into it. A solid 2 hours of that was figuring out and messing with those aft cabin panels / trim pieces. Of course, I am just too big and old to work well in that space, especially as it was 92 degrees and very humid here on Saturday.
 
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Did you get any pics of that portside panel off or your other work? I'd love to see them. Good write up.
 
Todd,

I did get some pictures taken of the different components installed, but not any with the aft cabin panels removed. I am planning to remove the aft cabin panels again as I have decided to add two more speakers to the rear of the cockpit, along with an amplifier in the electrical cabinet (below the CD changer location most likely) and will need to run the speaker wires along the same route as the MW1 remote cable. I have already ordered the speakers and just need to get the amp and I will be sure to take pics when I open it back up for the install. I will post the pics I did take when I get back home this weekend.

I also finally got my Newport grill mounted on the swim platform last weekend - I followed your set up to the tee with the pedestal base attached in the ladder well. Thanks for sharing that. It is a great location. Now I just need to build that storage shelf for it in the EC.
 

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