420/44 DB Owners Club

When you say it’s a matter of getting extra power to operate them what did you mean?
I ask because I’m getting ready to increase size if my tabs by attaching larger plates to my factory tabs. They will be 2” wider (side to side)and 3 1/2” longer, or 26” x 15 1/2”. They have 2” drop fins. Another member said they made same size add on plate and still worked with the original single cylinder.

I gave Bennett the size of your tabs as those dimensions are not far off mine and this is what they came back with:

“26 x 16 is WELL OUTSIDE of the capabilities of the CLASSIC HYDRAULIC trim tab system you are working with, so that is most likely the issue in your case.”

They are saying I should add a 3rd Actuator per Tab !! … Yes, seriously

I’m still in discussion with them….
 
It would be fun to know the actual dynamic load on those tabs in a 30,000 Lb boat at 30 knots. I can totally see where 3 actuators would be required as well as a much larger reservoir for the fluid than what a standard Bennett pump comes with.
 
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It would be fun to know the actual dynamic load on those tabs in a 30,000 Lb boat at 30 knots. I can totally see where 3 actuators would be required as well as a much larger reservoir for the fluid than what a standard Bennett pump comes with.

Surprise for me is a 30% bigger tab requires 300% more power …
 
It would be fun to know the actual dynamic load on those tabs in a 30,000 Lb boat at 30 knots. I can totally see where 3 actuators would be required as well as a much larger reservoir for the fluid than what a standard Bennett pump comes with.
It could be roughly calculated with some assumptions. The weight of the boat would be irrelevant. Use a constant speed. Should be a basic drag calculation with angle of attack...one force backwards, one up...then some trig to determine the force along the line of action of the actuator.
 
Surprise for me is a 30% bigger tab requires 300% more power …
Sounds like a lot. For a constant speed, the increase in force should be directly proportional to the surface area (and the square of velocity)...if I remember well, which I may not!
 
When underway the tabs won’t go down past 50% - If you put them full down they will stay there but the problem arises once you start operating them. I added an extra ram but same result so we are looking at increasing the power. Bigger pump perhaps? Someone mentioned a second pump but in hindsight that does sound a little weird.

I have the Bennett automatic levelling system with indicators.

Bennett say rule of thumb is 1” width for each foot of boat but as you can see from the pic there isn’t a lot of room. They say it’s better to be wider than longer because the water escapes (the fins may help there).

Please let me know your thoughts and advice as I’m really at a loss to know where to go from here ….


View attachment 125066
They look similar width. I’ll try getting picture up.
 
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They look similar width. I’ll try getting picture up.
9F481973-BF27-4984-A369-592CB07A062E.jpeg
26819EE8-33DC-4D7B-A3F0-0267F9143E93.jpeg
 
I gave Bennett the size of your tabs as those dimensions are not far off mine and this is what they came back with:

“26 x 16 is WELL OUTSIDE of the capabilities of the CLASSIC HYDRAULIC trim tab system you are working with, so that is most likely the issue in your case.”

They are saying I should add a 3rd Actuator per Tab !! … Yes, seriously

I’m still in discussion with them….
Interesting they are telling you to add a third actuator and mine seems to be working with a single.
 
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I just spoke with Grayson(spelling?) at tech support for Bennett. I asked him how many actuators on the classic 30 x 12. Told me single actuator, I think up to the 36 x 12. Then I asked him if I removed the 24x12 could I use the same single actuator on a 30x12. He said same actuator and same pump and reservoir.
That said I believe I should be ok for my custom sized add ons. Worst case scenario if too much as is I can start by cutting off the drop fins and if still too much I’ll remove the added plates and fill the holes with the removed bolts used to hold the plates together.
 
It seems like the actuator angle is off. If the cylinder was pushing down on the tab instead of pushing outward on the tab it would have more down force. A longer cylinder mounted higher on the transom seems more afective.
 
I just spoke with Grayson(spelling?) at tech support for Bennett. I asked him how many actuators on the classic 30 x 12. Told me single actuator, I think up to the 36 x 12. Then I asked him if I removed the 24x12 could I use the same single actuator on a 30x12. He said same actuator and same pump and reservoir.
That said I believe I should be ok for my custom sized add ons. Worst case scenario if too much as is I can start by cutting off the drop fins and if still too much I’ll remove the added plates and fill the holes with the removed bolts used to hold the plates together.


I just spoke with Grayson(spelling?) at tech support for Bennett. I asked him how many actuators on the classic 30 x 12. Told me single actuator, I think up to the 36 x 12. Then I asked him if I removed the 24x12 could I use the same single actuator on a 30x12. He said same actuator and same pump and reservoir.
That said I believe I should be ok for my custom sized add ons. Worst case scenario if too much as is I can start by cutting off the drop fins and if still too much I’ll remove the added plates and fill the holes with the removed bolts used to hold the plates together.

Interesting that he is contradicting the Yamaha-Motor Bennet Client Services guy (an M.J Thomas). I don’t want to start making my tab smaller again so I’m stuck with their advice…

Because the info and experiences amongst us is so varying I might consider a third actuator. I am reluctant to bore any more holes in my transom (up, down or otherwise). However my hand may be forced.

I haven’t moved my actuators from the Searay factory install as I’m sure all the contributors here haven’t either so moving them higher seems futile - And that’d be 4 more holes …

Mr Thomas has asked me to call him which I’ll will. I’ll keep you posted..
 
Very similar width. I spoke with the guy who modified mine and it looks like they may have added 4” to the chord (fwd-aft) only. That would make them 24 x 16.

Reading between the lines with everyones comments and experiences it appears changes to the chord are the problem. Span not so much.

AEO,

I don't know how much, if any I can be of assistance as I have a 48DA that weighs in at 40k lbs in the slings at winter haul out after we unload our stuff but still have full fuel. Three years ago I added 3" to the cord along with 3" drop fins to both of the tabs. (The 48DA comes standard with twin cylinders.) Prior to making these mods any attempt to change to running attitude via trimming the tabs was futile. After the mods I can actually lower the bow to an uncomfortable place if I'm not careful. I believe the most worthwhile part of the mod for me was adding the drop fins in that they now direct the water instead of just letting it splay off to the sides.

Not a good pic, but I'm sure you get the idea. (It was dark in the storage building when I stopped to take it for you.)
IMG_3306.jpeg

Hope this helps, and best wishes finding a solution.

-Tom
 
It seems like the actuator angle is off. If the cylinder was pushing down on the tab instead of pushing outward on the tab it would have more down force. A longer cylinder mounted higher on the transom seems more afective.
If you’re posting this regarding my pictures, mine are working fine. I believe this is the original instal from Sea Ray. They just don’t seem to be large enough so I therefore run more tab down than I think is normal.
 
AEO,

I don't know how much, if any I can be of assistance as I have a 48DA that weighs in at 40k lbs in the slings at winter haul out after we unload our stuff but still have full fuel. Three years ago I added 3" to the cord along with 3" drop fins to both of the tabs. (The 48DA comes standard with twin cylinders.) Prior to making these mods any attempt to change to running attitude via trimming the tabs was futile. After the mods I can actually lower the bow to an uncomfortable place if I'm not careful. I believe the most worthwhile part of the mod for me was adding the drop fins in that they now direct the water instead of just letting it splay off to the sides.

Not a good pic, but I'm sure you get the idea. (It was dark in the storage building when I stopped to take it for you.)
View attachment 125208
Hope this helps, and best wishes finding a solution.

-Tom
Very interesting how your side fins also slightly come above the plate as well.
 
Very interesting how your side fins also slightly come above the plate as well.

That feature is part of the original design (I assume for strength), and I had the 3" drop fins welded on from there.
 
AEO,

I don't know how much, if any I can be of assistance as I have a 48DA that weighs in at 40k lbs in the slings at winter haul out after we unload our stuff but still have full fuel. Three years ago I added 3" to the cord along with 3" drop fins to both of the tabs. (The 48DA comes standard with twin cylinders.) Prior to making these mods any attempt to change to running attitude via trimming the tabs was futile. After the mods I can actually lower the bow to an uncomfortable place if I'm not careful. I believe the most worthwhile part of the mod for me was adding the drop fins in that they now direct the water instead of just letting it splay off to the sides.

Not a good pic, but I'm sure you get the idea. (It was dark in the storage building when I stopped to take it for you.)
View attachment 125208
Hope this helps, and best wishes finding a solution.

-Tom

Hi Tom, thanks for the pictures and info. Interesting that you added 3” and they still operated fine. Even with the extended drop fins which I’m assuming would increase pressure slightly more. Mine are only 1” longer in the chord than yours (4” total) and yet they won’t go beyond halfway…

I’m beginning to wonder if my HPU is a little at fault. Although the capital letters in Bennett’s reply to me can’t be ignored.

/// Edited to add: Did you install that second actuator? ///
 
Last edited:
Sounds like a lot. For a constant speed, the increase in force should be directly proportional to the surface area (and the square of velocity)...if I remember well, which I may not!
I just spoke with Grayson(spelling?) at tech support for Bennett. I asked him how many actuators on the classic 30 x 12. Told me single actuator, I think up to the 36 x 12. Then I asked him if I removed the 24x12 could I use the same single actuator on a 30x12. He said same actuator and same pump and reservoir.
That said I believe I should be ok for my custom sized add ons. Worst case scenario if too much as is I can start by cutting off the drop fins and if still too much I’ll remove the added plates and fill the holes with the removed bolts used to hold the plates together.

I rang Bennett to talk to Mr Thomas and got Grayson - He is saying I need to install a third actuator too ….

I guess that’s it then, a third actuator it is :-/
 
Hi Tom, thanks for the pictures and info. Interesting that you added 3” and they still operated fine. Even with the extended drop fins which I’m assuming would increase pressure slightly more. Mine are only 1” longer in the chord than yours (4” total) and yet they won’t go beyond halfway…

I’m beginning to wonder if my HPU is a little at fault. Although the capital letters in Bennett’s reply to me can’t be ignored.

/// Edited to add: Did you install that second actuator? ///

The second actuator was standard on the 48DA.
 
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I rang Bennett to talk to Mr Thomas and got Grayson - He is saying I need to install a third actuator too ….

I guess that’s it then, a third actuator it is :-/
I’m guessing since you already have two and not working as you need that is why they are saying add a third one.
I’m hoping since my singles worked fine that they still will with the extra added on. Time will tell. Don’t expect to get boat back in water for close to two weeks.
 
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