Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

I have a deposit on a 2006 w/V-Drives. Website says draft is 32”.
Slips at my marina are limited to I am asking owners here is 32” of water under boat at slip at low tide enough to back her in? I may have 36” but thought I would check here with owners of the same boat to see your experiences.
Thanks
 
I have a deposit on a 2006 w/V-Drives. Website says draft is 32”.
Slips at my marina are limited to I am asking owners here is 32” of water under boat at slip at low tide enough to back her in? I may have 36” but thought I would check here with owners of the same boat to see your experiences.
Thanks

Going to be close. Either way you're going to be kicking up a lot of mud which will certainly not be helpful running through your pumps. If you're tide swing is a few feet and you can limit your exits and return times you may be fine.

-Kevin
 
Anyone hear of anybody taking a 340 Sundancer on the Great Loop? I'm kicking it around as a retirement idea with a larger boat but part of me wants to stick with what i know. I know this baby inside and out and I think she could handle it. The commodore on the other hand may require a larger vessel.

The disadvantage is she may be toast after that kind of trek.
 
Going to be close. Either way you're going to be kicking up a lot of mud which will certainly not be helpful running through your pumps. If you're tide swing is a few feet and you can limit your exits and return times you may be fine.

-Kevin
Thanks - Kevin. I’m in CT so the swing is about 7 ft. This slip is next to my old slip where I kept the 270. It had a stern drive and called out 38”. I did kick up a lot of mud on low tide docking, but it usually wasn’t a problem since it wasn’t that often.
 
Thanks - Kevin. I’m in CT so the swing is about 7 ft. This slip is next to my old slip where I kept the 270. It had a stern drive and called out 38”. I did kick up a lot of mud on low tide docking, but it usually wasn’t a problem since it wasn’t that often.

Once you're in and sitting there it shouldn't be a problem. Docking and kicking up mud will wear your pumps and impellers over time so I would try to limit that. I am very familiar with those big tide swings so most of the time you should be fine except for those extremely low tides. If you were okay with the stern drives them you will be good with the vdrives assuming the same water depths.

-Kevin
 
Does anyone have their 340 on a lift? We purchased a 2003 340 just a bit ago and one of my neighbors was kind enough to offer the use of their 20K lift temporarily while we are having a new dock built. The bunks need to be adjusted so was wondering if anyone is doing this and can share the spacing dimension?
 
We are on a covered lift. It is at our house. Not sure the spacing would be same. If the 2003 hull and the 2006 hulls are the same I certainly will share. I don't have them handy, but can get on the floating dock and get the numbers. We also have outdrives and you need to be mindful of where your pickups, etc are located. Let me know and I can do the measuring this weekend.
525417182.jpeg
 
Thanks Korkie. If you don't mind I'd appreciate it but no biggie if not!
 
I don't know about others, but I am ready to get back on the water here in Wisconsin!

This will be year 2 with the 2005 340. So far so good.

Was wondering if anyone has the mobile vessleview? I have a new iPad that rarely gets used. Anyone find it valuable? My current vesselview with the older screen is going out. Can still read it, but not sure how long it will last.
 
I don't know about others, but I am ready to get back on the water here in Wisconsin!

This will be year 2 with the 2005 340. So far so good.

Was wondering if anyone has the mobile vessleview? I have a new iPad that rarely gets used. Anyone find it valuable? My current vesselview with the older screen is going out. Can still read it, but not sure how long it will last.
B Gerrits - Do you have the SC5000 SmartCraft or did a PO upgrade to a VesselView?
 
has anyone replaced their engine hatch lifts? mine are very rusty and today while doing some spring cleaning in the bilge i had large flakes of rust coming off of the electric lift motors. then when I went to close the hatches they wouldn't turn off when I let go of the button. I had to run to the battery switches to deactivate them. then I tried several more times and the hatch motors continued to run when I let go of the button. I was thinking this is the rusty hatch motors but maybe it's the switches? Has this happened to anyone before?
 
On my 2005, I do not have DC power to the three solenoid switches in the cabin. I hit all three switches and they don't energize. The battery charger is running so I don't believe my batteries are dead. Any suggestions?
 
On my 2005, I do not have DC power to the three solenoid switches in the cabin. I hit all three switches and they don't energize. The battery charger is running so I don't believe my batteries are dead. Any suggestions?

That is odd since the power comes from two separate banks. Does the voltage gauge in the panel confirm no voltage for both port and starboard? These are independent latching solenoids so if the batteries are not dead it is unlikely tied to just one component.

Since these are momentary switches try clicking them up to energize - if nothing lights check the DC voltage on the panel (port and starboard via the switch) - it could just be blown indicator lamps. If you do have DC voltage and the hatch works check the switches in the engine compartment and see if they light up - if not check the fuses on the solenoids. If they light it might just be the cabin switches.


-Kevin
 
That is odd since the power comes from two separate banks. Does the voltage gauge in the panel confirm no voltage for both port and starboard? These are independent latching solenoids so if the batteries are not dead it is unlikely tied to just one component.

Since these are momentary switches try clicking them up to energize - if nothing lights check the DC voltage on the panel (port and starboard via the switch) - it could just be blown indicator lamps. If you do have DC voltage and the hatch works check the switches in the engine compartment and see if they light up - if not check the fuses on the solenoids. If they light it might just be the cabin switches.


-Kevin
 
I agree it's weird since they are on different battery banks. The voltage meter in the panel is showing no voltage. I have no DC voltage and can not get the hatch to work. I can't believe all 4 batteries are dead.
 
I agree it's weird since they are on different battery banks. The voltage meter in the panel is showing no voltage. I have no DC voltage and can not get the hatch to work. I can't believe all 4 batteries are dead.

You can power the hatch via a portable battery pack plugged into the 12vdc (cigarette lighter) plug. That will allow you to provide power the hatch when batteries are dead.

-Kevin
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,182
Messages
1,428,060
Members
61,088
Latest member
SGT LAT
Back
Top