Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

SKybolt said:
Depends on the shop, but the better shops will paint and try to give you something for that cost. The reason you are doing the aftercoolers now, is there is a problem? If not I would get the boat back to where it is going to reside and possibly do this over the summer or later spring. If there is a problem I guess year at the behest of who's doing the work and how long it will take. Painting is not required but it provides some rust protection. If they are painted right an with the correct paint, that will help with rust forming.
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Previous buyer used Shore Power for the engine surveys November 2021. Engines performed well, 150 RPMs below Full Load RPM, which appeared to be the props, which have since been tuned.

Seller did not have any service history on the engines, approx 1100 hours on them now. Shore Power quoted $18k to get the engines up to date on service and also told the buyer "do not operate this boat until it's done". Seller was planning to move the boat about 200 miles. Seller got scared (he was new to diesels) and walked.

So now they are trying to scare me as well. I will need to take the boat from Kent Narrows to the upper Potomac, I am guessing 6-7 hours on the water a lot of which will be in the Bay. I want to feel safe/confident and trust the boat can make the trip.

Sea trial is this Friday, I am bringing my gfs brother-in-law with me, who is a certified diesel mechanic, though not with marine applications. He offered to help me do all of the service, including the aftercoolers, though he has never worked on them before.
 
ttmott said:
I always ask not to paint and that I'll take care of that. I've had things epoxy coated, I done epoxy brush coatings, and sprayed with the typical aerosol can. I have found that as long as the surface prep is correctly done and completely degreased that a good can of spray paint is as good as anything; a tack coat and two additional full coats is all that is needed. Here is a pic after the manifold and cooler maintenance on my engine done over a year ago and it still looks the same. The turbine housing is coated with VHT. Just my experience.
View attachment 121641
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Thanks, I assume you do this after they reinstall?
 
mrsrobinson said:
Thanks, I assume you do this after they reinstall?
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Not usually - I prep and mask and paint in my shop. Everything is painted before they reassemble including cleaning, wire brushing, bead blasting, and painting the bolts. This seems to be the only way all of the surfaces get properly prep'd and coated. Worst cast there is a little touch-up after assembly.
This is an example of things ready to reinstall:
IMG_4569.jpg
 
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Ok, so you remove them yourself, makes sense. If I use a shop to to this service I don't get the opportunity to clean/prep/paint.
 
mrsrobinson said:
Ok, so you remove them yourself, makes sense. If I use a shop to to this service I don't get the opportunity to clean/prep/paint.
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Not necessarily, usually I have my mechanic do most of the heavy work; They let me have everything for several days so I can do my thing. They also box up all of the brackets and bolts and things not being sent out for service and let me do my magic on that also. It's like they get to reinstall all new hardware....
Now on things that don't get removed (engine block), I get right in there and sand, scrub, degrease, and paint if needed.
IMG_4570.jpg
 
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Called Caterpillar/Carter where the boat will be kept. No diesel mechanics, closest is Baltimore. Called the marina service shop where the boat will be slipped, same answer/response.

Just talked to a local reputable CAT mechanic (2 brokers and multiple friends recommended him). He said plan on 10 - 12 hours of labor, depending on how difficult they are to remove, $300 for seals kits, $350/engine for clean/pressure test, or about $2500. He said in that area he does not do many heat exchangers as the water is not too salty.

Wow, what a difference in price, 3.5 times less.
 
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mrsrobinson said:
Called Caterpillar/Carter where the boat will be kept. No diesel mechanics, closest is Baltimore. Called the marina service shop where the boat will be slipped, same answer/response.

Just talked to a local reputable CAT mechanic (2 brokers and multiple friends recommended him). He said plan on 10 - 12 hours of labor, depending on how difficult they are to remove, $300 for seals kits, $350/engine for clean/pressure test, or about $2500. He said in that area he does not do many heat exchangers as the water is not too salty.

Wow, what a difference in price, 3.5 times less.
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that’s more like it, in my opinion
 
The turbine housing is coated with VHT.
ttmott said:
Here is a pic after the manifold and cooler maintenance on my engine done over a year ago and it still looks the same. The turbine housing is coated with VHT. Just my experience.

Thank you for the great pics. What VHT and paint are you using? Looks great. Also do you remember what thread size stud and lenght you used to align the AC to the block? I have read 8mm dia but threads and length?
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Njlarry said:
The turbine housing is coated with VHT.
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Sorry - compressor housing. Turbine housing is uncoated.
I think it was VHT Flame Proof Coating which is usually for engine headers and the like. It is a Flat White finish. I bead blasted the housing and degreased then a tack coat and a couple of full coats of the VHT. It seems to stand up very well and hasn't discolored. Again, prep is everything down to not touching the prepared metal with bare fingers before painting.

For my 400DA's 3116 engine aftercoolers - that was like ten years ago; sorry I can't remember the stud size for installation support. They are metric....
 
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The trials & tribulations of a low hour DOCK QUEEN.

This explains why the cooling lines going to the shaft seals were stopped up:

IMG_1401[1].JPG


IMG_1402[1].JPG



IMG_1403[1].JPG


So, do i take it to a radiator shop?

soak it in a bath of phosphoric acid?

take any of the fittings out and pour some mixture in there to soak?

What about that stainless ring?

This is much different (AND HEAVIER) than my stainless, clean as a whistle (cause I fresh water /salt away flushed) Yanmars

Guess the turbo may not be installed this weekend.

BEST !

RWS
Your advice is appreciated.
 
Maybe A Dancer said:
The trials & tribulations of a low hour DOCK QUEEN.

This explains why the cooling lines going to the shaft seals were stopped up:

View attachment 121852

View attachment 121853


View attachment 121854

So, do i take it to a radiator shop?

soak it in a bath of phosphoric acid?

take any of the fittings out and pour some mixture in there to soak?

What about that stainless ring?

This is much different (AND HEAVIER) than my stainless, clean as a whistle (cause I fresh water /salt away flushed) Yanmars

Guess the turbo may not be installed this weekend.

BEST !

RWS
Your advice is appreciated.
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the shower head doesn’t look bad but that inlet is pretty gunked up. Soak some barnacle buster in there. I believe it’s brass so it should clean up well
 
Barnacle Buster. I bought a 5 gallon just shipped to the house for just such occasions.
 
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