No, the black hoses are from the engine and contain anti freeze. You need to disconnect the blue and red lines. I remove one of the elbows from the copper nipple on the tank and take the other line out of its elbow. That line is then inserted into the other's elbow. Now just open the faucet on the tank and let it drain out.
Henry


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Danny,

Sorry I misread your post. I thought you meant the freshwater side. I normally leave the engine lines in place. Where did you get the info on anti freeze being bad for the heater?

Henry


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Deleted.

 

Yes, I meant the freshwater side. Shows you how much I know, I didn't even know there was an engine heat exchanger on this heater. Now it's more clear, just bypass the hot and cold lines.

I have been doing a lot of reading on winterizing, since this boat is new to me, and I'll be doing all of the winterizing on it. I added up the winterizing costs at my marina, and that alone was about $900.00! I'll just let the marina do the shrink wrap and storage. Anyway, the consensus is that the heating elements for whatever reason fail prematurely when subjected to antifreeze. I believe it's the alcohol, in it that doesn't play nice with the heating element. Easy enough to bypass. I'd really like to add a bypass kit, but I haven't seen it locally, but may buy one online before I actually do the winterizing.

 

Anyway, the consensus is that the heating elements for whatever reason fail prematurely when subjected to antifreeze. I believe it's the alcohol, in it that doesn't play nice with the heating element.

Only if you turn the HW heater "on" (electric element) with the AF in there. If you flush it out properly, it's fine.

Regardless, bypassing/draining is the preferred method as the heater will drain sufficiently to avoid freeze damage. Plus you don't have to flush it out in the Spring (or, at least, a quick flush is enough).

 

I did a little more research and found the fittings are made by Seatech. They are 15mm fittings, but I didn't notice what size the tubing is. Is it 1/2" or 3/4" on the 280 (likely 1/2"). I'm might pick up a bypass kit made by Seatech in the morning, if my marine supply store has it in stock. Here is a link to what should work: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|309347&id=1523717

 

The tubing is 15mm OD. The kit in the link won't fit. I found the materials at a rv supply. Freshwatersystems dot com

Henry


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Thanks for the link Henry. Glad I asked and didn't buy the wrong parts.