Should the windlass switch in the helm stay on when pushed or is it design as a safety feature that you have to hold it to operate the windlass?
So I can't find that model's exact wiring diagram but it's typically wired like this:Do you mean output in the aft eim in the engine compartment? I tried to take the box apart yesterday but it is sealed way to tight. Could you be a bit more specific?
The windlass is brand new.
Maybe this will help, I can’t seem to wrap my head around the system.The EIM relay/breakers control the signals to the windless control box as well as the latching relay, the latching relay in the bildge controls power to the box, if you have the manual the wiring diagrams are in it. but I'll try my best here to describe them:
In the bildge This circuit is your main power to the windless
Battery->Fuse->(Large Lugs)Latching Relay(Large Lugs)->Windless box->Motor.
The Latching relay Has 4 or 5 lugs(connections), I don't recall the control ground path and don't have the diagrams in front of me:
12v+ Power in (big lug)
12v+ Power out( big lug)
(don't recall) in( through a fuse) input from the helm via the eim
12v+ out(Through another fuse) ouput to the helm led.
Windless box
12v+ Motor out Large lug
12v+ Motor out Large lug
12v+ Motor out Medium lug
12v+ In from the latching relay (Large center lug) Check for power here
Gnd control gnd (center blade iirc)
12v+ control in up from the helm via EIM and foot switch( they're wired parallel )
12v+ control in down from the helm via EIM and foot switch( they're wired parallel )
Motor ground is a separate connection
So all that said, if you have clicks in the EIM the helm switches are working, the next stop is the blidge to see if the signal is getting to the latching relay and if that relay is getting power. If it's getting signal and power and the fuses are ok then the relay has failed. You can do a test by jumping the the two big lugs and bypassing it.