You read my mind, Todd! I've been thinking of the same thing, recently. Good call on starting it.

Here's another idea: Why doesn't anyone who has a thread already out there that deals with something specific and important to the '99-'04 post the link here? Also, if you've done any mods, post the link here, as well? That way we can make it a sort of "resource" thread as well with all the info in one spot.

Yay/nay? What say 'ye? Sorry, I took the kids to local Renaissance Fair this past weekend. :smt001 I must admit, the jousting was very cool!

 

I'm in. Great idea Todd. I think there are a good number of us on here. I for one, plan to keep mine for quite a while.

 

I'm on board!

Since we appear to be tearing apart and upgrading our 99-04 260DA's it is a great idea to have the new specific thread. Just replaced my B-3 wear pads today since one was 1/2 there and the other just needed to be upgraded to new status.

 

I would appreciate the links to the previously posted projects, great idea.

 

Yeah I thought there is enough info specific to this era of the 260DA to warrant it.

 

Hey Todd

Just a reminder if you are in your tub, please shoot a picture of your VHF, I am interested on the surround and how it looks.

Thanks in advance if you get a chance.

Scott

 

Will do,
Here are a couple other project I've done as you requested links to:
Some positive projects started~GPS transducer and heater project started
Heater Craft Hydronic Heater install-gallery

Garmin 545s GPS install completed
Grill installation

 

Transom locker / platform lights: http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22970&highlight=light

Some of the later '99-'04 260's may already have a locker light, I don't recall.


Transom Locker washdown hose holder: http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20516

 

I'll still drop in here from time to time just to keep an eye on everyone. :wow::smt043

 

Absolutely. It's welcome to all as many things can be done on not only the newer ones, but the 240DA's are very similar too. I just thought there are enough unique things about this era 260s that it's own thread was in order.

 

Great idea Todd.. on the 99-04 DA thread.

By the way, we ended up mounting our Lowrance finder in the same spot you did, except we added a RAM articulating arm to allow it to be used in muliple positions. It allows me better co-pilot access
This is only after trying it where the VHF was, and finding I didn't like it there (can't see it from the back of the boat while fishing). So I ended up putting the new Standard Horizon 1500S VHF there.

Still looking for comments on a good stereo system to put in here. We ended up getting Alpine marine speakers to replace the two shredded ones in the cockpit.
Am currently looking at 2 different IPOD marine setups, one from Kenwood and one from Fusion. Since all of our music is on compressed (pretty high quality though) and on IPODs, we can get rid of carrying around discs.

 

Still looking for comments on a good stereo system to put in here. We ended up getting Alpine marine speakers to replace the two shredded ones in the cockpit.
Am currently looking at 2 different IPOD marine setups, one from Kenwood and one from Fusion. Since all of our music is on compressed (pretty high quality though) and on IPODs, we can get rid of carrying around discs.

I had the cassette/changer as well. Radio took a crap. All I wanted out of it, though, was a radio with an MP3 input so I could hook my iPhone right into it. I just bought the least expensive, brand-name, marine-grade radio I could find. I'm pretty sure it's a Clarion. It doesn't work with the dash remote (I think just the volume - maybe radio channel selection), but I can handle the 3 foot walk into the cabin.:smt001

 

Yeah, I haven't bit the bullet either on upgrading the stereo to a iPod compatible version. I have a freind who's installed a AppleTV on his boat which would be also cool to integrate with a small TV too, but that's low on the priority list now.

What I would like is Sony or Clarion's new version of the remote on the helm's dash. My current one is factory and you can't tell which song you're selecting, but it works so i haven't replaced it. I have the Clarion AM/FM/Cassette deck with the CD changer mounted below.

 

Yeah, I haven't bit the bullet either on upgrading the stereo to a iPod compatible version. I have a freind who's installed a AppleTV on his boat which would be also cool to integrate with a small TV too, but that's low on the priority list now.

What I would like is Sony or Clarion's new version of the remote on the helm's dash. My current one is factory and you can't tell which song you're selecting, but it works so i haven't replaced it. I have the Clarion AM/FM/Cassette deck with the CD changer mounted below.

Cassette tape... so funny to see it written. Kind of like talking about our 8 track in the car.

 

Ok Spot, don't laugh too much about cassettes... you might make some of us 'youngsters' feel even younger (smile).. My boat has the AM/FM cassette deck with CD changer as well.. And along with that I have the Clarion 'VHS' deck below that and the Clarion LCD monitor up front. (all outdated) The clarion CD player sounds ok, but I'd really like to use my IPOD music and not bring along a bunch of CDs. Plus, the tuner is pretty poor on my unit. Anyways, If I can't make a decision, I'll let it slide until spring.

Update on the sump area... dry as can be and no more water in the bilge. So far so good. Probabaly only a few more trips this year as football has started and I'm my son's team photographer so most Saturdays, and some Fridays for the rest of the boating season are out.

 

I'm considering making a custom burgee flagstaff for the bow rail. Since ours has the nav lights integrated into that center section it won't allow for the standard flagstaffs without being off to one side.

If I make these would anyone else be interested? I guarantee they will look nice and be high quality.

 

Hey Todd i am definitely interested.

 

Just teasing about the Cassette, I have the same one in my boat, When it breaks I'll replace it. Hey Todd, I would love to look at the plan for the bow mounted flag holder. As you know I have the same setup and need to be able to fly colors proudly.

If you have an idea, I would love to hear how it looks.

Scott

 

Todd, I'd like to see what you come up with for a design on the Burgee staff as well. I also am in need of what to do for a state/country stern flag pole. I see some 260's with flags connected to the rear-most bimini pole but not yet sure if this is what we'll use. I like to fly a country flag even though most small boats do not seem to.

 

........ I also am in need of what to do for a state/country stern flag pole......

I mounted a flag mount on the transom top and to the starboard side as described and

Generally, the national ensign should be displayed at the peak of the gaff, i.e., the outer end of the spar extending aft from the mast of your boat—if you boat has a gaff. If it does not, fly it from the flagstaff at your boat's stern. If your boat has an overhanging boom or an outboard motor, your flagstaff may be offset to starboard (preferably) from your boat's centerline.

I used the Flag staff from my Grandfather's old boat.

 

Ok, I'll see if I can get a prototype made up and post it here. It'll be a few weeks.

 

Todd, I have what looks like the same surface mount on the same place on my boat. The prior owner said he thought it was for the magma grill, but didn't have a rod for it (so we just ordered one). I wonder if it's really a flag pole holder now. Although mine is perfectly verticle, and not slanted rearwards.

 

This is the Magma Surface mount: http://www.magmaproducts.com/Produc...Products/Gas_Barbeque_2/Gas_005/Gas005_Mounting/Gas005_120/A10-121/a10-121.html

Does it look like that?

Todd - "Grandpa's flagstaff" - nice touch... very cool. :thumbsup:

 

Todd, it's more like the one you show... it doesn't have many holes in the base as the one in Dennis's picture (the currently selling version).

 

I don't see why one couldn't use that mount for a flagstaff, as well. If you can't find a staff that would fit right in (that would be awful lucky), just sand down a wooden staff till it fits. If there are no transverse holes in the base at all, drill a small one so you could screw in a small screw to keep the staff from coming out. Or, if you're feeling ambitious, drill all the way through and use a bimini retaining pin.

Depending on the diameter of the new staff, you may want to pre-drill a hole up through the staff (starting at the bottom) and then screw in a 3" or 4" screw for added strength. That way the staff would be less likely to break. This step may or may not be needed.

Another idea: Move the grill to another location (maybe use a different mount, if needed) and put the flagstaff mount in it's place.

 

Thanks for suggestings on the flag mount.. I was really hoping to put my grill in that mount (and ordered the very last ... according to Magma... mouting rod that they had in stock for this old mount). We were using one of those clamp to your bimini support mounts, but i really hate it when something isn't stable and sways/moves... especially when that something is on fire!

A new question for the tinkerers.
I decided on, and purchased, a stereo replacement. The Fusion IP-600s with wired remote. I think I can fit it in the Clarion location with some fine tuning. I've removed the old stereo and the power panel and after a few seconds of being stunned by all of the wiring in there, I note that the old remote heads up to the upper left area and goes 'somewhere'. So I'm wondering how to get the new remote wire from the dash to the power panel. The old one is all wrapped and tied so I can't pull through.

Anyone done something like this; run a wire between those 2 places?

 

I think that old wire goes down into the bilge, then across and back up the other side. Take a look under the dash and see if you can tell which way the wire goes as it leaves the actual remote. Or, could it be the wire goes from the electrical panel and then behind the cabin panels and then behind the head?

I don't have the parts manual (has wiring diagrams in it) with me, right now. Maybe it'll give the wiring route for that.

Regardless, I guess the important thing is how to get the new one over to the helm. I haven't done it myself, so hopefully someone that actually has will chime in. But, if I were to do it, I'd probably try and go down through the bilge area.

Underneath the sink, there is a false wall against the hull side. There's actually about 6" or 8" between the wall and the false wall. The box under the sink and the walls all are simply screwed in. You just have to look and feel as the screw heads get hidden in the carpeting. Once you remove the aft wall, you'll easily be able to access all of those wires that come up from the bilge - from the forward-most, starboard side of the bilge.

Next would be to remove the cubby by the driver's right knee.

Just an FYI, when I re-installed the walls (under the sink), I left the sink box off and pushed that stbd side wall (the false one) all the way back as far as I could. Just gave me a little more clearance to keep our cooler under there, along with some odds and ends.

I hope this helps at least a little bit and doesn't confuse the matter even more!

 

Dennis,
you were confusing me until I figured out that you're talking about getting a wire from the back power panel to the dash. I was referring to the breaker panel in the closet next to the galley in the cabin. And getting a wire from there to the helm. The wires exit at the top and head towards the mid berth ceiling but can't see what happens to them. Sorry I wasn't more clear.

I have already gotten wires (Sonar) from the rear of the boat and it's just like you said (in fact you were the one who told me to remove the cubby and that helped the most).

 

Nope - you were clear. I understood that's what you meant. I just wasn't communicating clear enough. If they're going towards the mid-berth ceiling (and don't make a turn and go down) then they must run behind the soft panels and underneath the step-down.... I think....

That's an awful lot of dismantling to run the new wire the same way. I think I'd still vote for going down into the bilge for running the new wire. Even if it means drilling a new hole in the bottom of the electrical panel closet.

Try looking at where the other wires go and see if it wouldn't be easier to follow them. Again, I haven't had my panel out, so I'm just hypothesizing here. That sounds better than "guessing", doesn't it? :smt001

 

I haven't looked too close at the route for that (almost everything else) but I believe the route would be from the panel at the radio aft behind the removable panel that is behind the lounger up to the removable panel forward of the door and into the helm.

 

It's hard to say which will take longer, but when I decide to do it I will find the route and replicate it. I don't think either way is a big deal, but I'll use the factory path if replacement is necessary. Also, I'm not even sure you need to replace the cable as it may have the same connections.

 

Todd, Dennis, thank you for all the information. When you say 'removable panels' what panels do you refer to? I am not clear on which panels are easily removable without damaging them. I can tell you that the closet that the wiring is in, has no clear path to taking that apart easily. I can see down to the bilge at the step, but not clear where else I might find a path that gets down there. I will stare at it a lot tonight. I'm not affraid to take things apart, as long as it's non-destructive (screws and bolts) and does not require gluing or epoxying back together.
I'll let you know how this stereo works because there are few (zero on this updated model) on-line. There were a couple of reviews I found for it's predecessor (hull truth and cnet) that were helpful. This model seems to have fixed the shortcomings of the initial release. I guess I'll see how good the Engineers in New Zealand are.

 

Well Terri
The panels I have taken off are all of the ones in the mid-berth, but it also appears as if the panel on the inside of the lounger back(inside the cabin) would come off too. That is where I belive there are some wires routed. It would run up there and then accross the forward side of the sliding door trim. Again I'm only guessing at this point.
Dennis may be correct that they've dropped down in the engine bay and over to the loom running to the helm.