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stuffing box question

1.7K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  ttmott  
#1 ·
My Searay is a 2008 350 DA and the V Drive shafts leak some. My question is are these the more modern dripless type? And if so, would tightening the shaft screw slightly eliminate the leaks? Or do I need to replace the stuffing? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
You need to show a pic, but if stock then most likely they are dripless and Tides version. They do not require tightening and in fact that would do nothing. What is usually the case when this happens is you need to replace the o-ring seal. If there is a spare on the shaft then you don't need to pull the boat to replace, otherwise the boat need to be out of the water to replace the seal.

Please post a pic to verify what you actually have.

https://marinepartssource.com/lasdr...hC9ARIsAIFsETFGdIVlCCo_i6NUEi29GGTcrox2K0Si_7G-cs-DG9SMGqKbovqfaCIaAqi2EALw_wcB
 
#3 ·
I'm thinking by 2008 they all are all dripless. Depending on the type you have will determine the course of action. I originally had tides but someone along the line replaced with PSS mechanical seals. Getting close to a redo. While they are dripless, they aren't maintenance free. :)
 
#5 ·
You need to show a pic, but if stock then most likely they are dripless and Tides version. They do not require tightening and in fact that would do nothing. What is usually the case when this happens is you need to replace the o-ring seal. If there is a spare on the shaft then you don't need to pull the boat to replace, otherwise the boat need to be out of the water to replace the seal.

Please post a pic to verify what you actually have.

https://marinepartssource.com/lasdr...hC9ARIsAIFsETFGdIVlCCo_i6NUEi29GGTcrox2K0Si_7G-cs-DG9SMGqKbovqfaCIaAqi2EALw_wcB
Here is a pic of my seal(s). Can you determine if a spare is present on this version?
Thx
 

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#6 ·
Those are definitely tides seals. The most forward part with the screws is the seal section. If you had a spare it would be forward of that already on the shaft. Your picture doesn't show much of the shaft forward of the seal.
 
#15 ·
If you have the spares in the carriers it's as "simple" as cutting the old one off and sliding the new one up. Can be done by a "pro" in the water if you can tolerate the leaking. If no spares, you'll need to pull the boat and disconnect the shafts to get new seals on.
 
#17 ·
Thanks, I ordered the 2 lip seals and will have shortly. I'm wondering still if there is a spare and I need to get a better view of the shaft in front of the seal to see if there is one or not. I'm curious if I should replace the spare if I end up using it? Or use it and wait for end of season to replace spare. Thoughts?
 
#18 ·
The seals are not that expensive. Why take a chance? Change all of them while the boat is torn apart. There is a chance the spare will get damaged pulling it off the shaft....

It's like my neighbor years ago and his old Astrovan. The water pump needed to be replaced which entailed tearing the front of the vehicle apart. He was only going to replace the water pump and not the hoses or thermostat and I asked why not get it all done? Wouldn't you know it he had the vehicle completely apart a week later changing a blown hose.... and all of the other hoses....
 
#20 ·
Thanks! Yeah, hopefully there are spares on the shaft I cant see and I can ride out the season. The lip seals are ($66 each, but the spare with plastic housing run $260 each,, not sure why so much more, but it is what it is. I'll do some shopping around.
 
#21 ·
This is what the spare seal carrier looks like installed- The black ring on the shaft. This boat would be a breeze twenty-minute job to change but my old 400 Sundancer a serious PIA. I actually had to change one of them on the Sundancer in the Bahamas once. That was a three G&T recovery.
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