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Starter wont crank with multiple attempts, then it does......whats up.

3.3K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  370Dancer  
#1 ·
400 EC with 7.4 MPI. Turn ignitions on and push start switch on dash, Nothing, no crank, nothing. Push and release start switch multiple times, nothing, then suddenly with another push it starts and runs fine.

Replaced starter solenoid in brain box...still nothing, acting the same way.

Any suggestions? Starter switch Intermittent? Should I replace the switch?

Starter?


Note* batteries check out fine, connections tight, grounds good.

Thanks for any experience or suggestions.

Jon
 
#11 ·
I just replaced 2 switches at the helm and it solved both issues I was having... 1st switch was the engine sync and the power vent switch. I had to hit them multiple times and then they would go, I started thinking I'll be spending a boat buck to solve this mystery and decided to go with the least expensive items first... BINGO !!
 
#13 · (Edited)
I had the same symptoms on my port engine and it turned out to be the salve solenoid on top of the engine (not on the starter). Just fixed it this weekend. A new battery solved the problem for a few start cycles, then problem came back. Is this the solenoid you referenced in your post?
Image
 
#18 ·
I had the same symptoms on my port engine and it turned out to be the salve solenoid on top of the engine (not on the starter). Just fixed it this weekend. A new battery solved the problem for a few start cycles, then problem came back. Is this the solenoid you referenced in your post? View attachment 70503
installed one of these sunday…..no go. Will put a meter on it this weekend.
 
#14 ·
Bingo! A slight jiggle of the transmission stick will tell you if the neutral switch is broken or incorrectly adjusted. You can use a meter to verify the slave. Meter it out while someone hits the key. Keep clicking the key and eventually the meter should go hot once the slave finally pulls in.
 
#16 ·
Had similar issue with my boat 10+yrs ago. Turned out there was some corrosion on the big black ground wire connection on the engine block (after ruling out all the other likely suspects of course). I really didn't think that was the issue since it appeared to be relatively corrosion free, but that was it. Been fine ever since cleaning and reinstalling the connection onto the post.
 
#22 ·
Ok here we go..got to marina and switched port switch Carling VMDJ (good) for starboard switch, (suspect bad). Bingo....switch worked. Replaced with a VMDA that was available. Now fixed. Down side is the new switch light is reversed and not green to match the rest. Will be looking for a VMDJ now. Thanks for all the troubleshooting suggestions. They were all excellent. Neutral switch, of course grounds.....checked them all. Thanks again as now I am back on the lake!

BTW I had replaced the solonoid and apparently it's good....put in the emergency spares box .
 
#26 ·
+1 for the switch, although over the years sometimes it was the solenoid. I carry both spares. Don't overlook the wires and their connectors behind the switch too. It's all about having enough current to pull in the solenoid contacts, or having enough current to overcome a sticking contact. Two problems, same effect.