No corring in the hull of a 280. No experience here, I've just read it more than once.

 

The hull is solid, transom has a wood core as well as the decks... You are good to go with your transducer:grin:

 

Thanks. That makes a good start to my day!

 

If your HIN starts with SERP, you are cored. SERT and SERF are not (couple of others too but I can't recall them). The letter designation pertains to the plant where the boat was built.

This is a good read for ya...
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/20153-Where-your-boat-was-made/page2?highlight=SERP

 

Fortunately, I am a SERT. Why would Searay make two different hulls for the same model boat?

 

The link that Ron provided includes posts from "fwebster". Frank often describes some of the reasons behind Sea Ray's procedures,(as only he can). Trust me when I say, anything Frank posts is worth reading twice.

 

When you mount the transducer, you probably should not mount it in the centre of the bottom over the keel. The glass is really thick there and the ducer won't shoot thru well. On my current boat the PO had done just that and mine did not work well. I moved it outboard of the stringer and all is well.

 

Thanks. That is what I plan to do. I bought a transducer that was specifically made for the 21 degree dead rise of my hull. The boat goes back in the water at the end of this week so I will know at that time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

I don't recall on your model, but by chance is your bilge floor nice and shiny - gelcoated like the top side?

 

It has a grey coating over the fiberglass. I plan to sand the location where I put the transducer so that I have a smooth uncoated fiberglass surface. My understanding is that the surface should be smooth and paint free. I actually just cleaned and painted the bilge with "bilgekote" by Interlux but I am sure it can be removed. Do you agree with this approach?

 

I've never installed a shoot-thru transducer. I've only ever done the transom mount or through-hull. But, I *think* you need to epoxy it in place? In that case, yes, you'll want to get to bare fiberglass.

My concern was more about whether or not you have a double hull. I didn't think your model did, but I wasn't sure. If your bilge floor has "bumps" on it (not perfectly smooth like the topsides) then you're good to go.