I assume you are referring to the deck (what you walk on) when you say the “floor”, correct?

How far reaching is the deck rot? Or do you not know this yet? It seems how much of an area needing replacement would be important to know in whether you would need to remove both skins of the deck and install a new one.

Your boat is likely designed with an upper deck, foam and stringer/subframe all tabbed to the hull, like mine. Your upper deck will be part of the rigid ness of the whole structure.

Have you started cutting and stripping out the rot?

 

Yes the deck sorry. I have started to peel back the top layer of glass and gel coat and the rotten/soaked wood underneath approximately 2 sq ft so far. Is it possible to bond the new marine ply to the existing glass to rebuild that structural integrity? Would a coat of resin before the wood went down achieve that?

 

pictures would be helpful.

 

I. Don't have much yet, only had a hour to poke around yesterday. Hoping to get back the the warehouse for a few hours later to get more stripped and cleaned up. I will post more then. Here is this for now but it's not a great pic. It blows my mind the the floor was solid as a rock in that area. Thick glass doing it's job but also covering up giant red flags during purchase.

 

Search you tube for Frisco boater. He did the same project. Be forewarned, it kept expanding as he found more and more rot. Good luck.

 

Seen friscos. If this goes to the stringers then I am either floating it over Niagara falls or sending it to someone. That said the other sample holes you see in the picture have shown some solid wood so I am hoping it's contained and was truly caused by someone not dealing the screw holes from the old battery trays

 

Yes, you could leave the bottom layer of glass intact. It may be quite thin - I can't say for sure on your boat, but often that bottom layer is only one, thin layer of lightweight glass.

You need to know upfront that this project WILL end up being 3 times as big as you think it is. That's the just the way it goes with this kind of stuff. Don't bother removing little pieces like you are. Take a full section off. Get the trim pump out of the way and cut enitre sections. Go close to, but not all the to, the starboard edge of the floor. Leave the "corner" intact. It's just as easy to epoxy large pieces of removed floor/fiberglass as it is big pieces.

Here are some pictures from a Grady that I rebuilt to wet your appetite. The initial "soft spot" was about 1 or 2 square feet. I removed sections about 2' square at a time, then epoxied them back down afterwards. I also ended up redesigning the floor layout different from the factory, but that was a personal preference as this boat was also converted from a stern drive to an outboard.

 

Yeah when I get a chance I am going to head back and remove the trim pump and the wall between there and the engine to get the rest up. The glass on the bottom is surprisingly thick, maybe 5mil.

 

The glass on the bottom is surprisingly thick, maybe 5mil.

That's good - it'll make your job easier as you don't have to worry about punching through the bottom layer.