Subscribed
I'd luv to hear some suggestions. My craft has a similar issue

 

Depending on how bad it is....start with a rotary and some heavy cut compound. If that doesn't get it, wet sanding.....

Bennett

 

My recipe - wash with dish soap and a grey ( ultra fine) Scotch-Brite pad. ( skip the Scotch-Brite if not badly oxidized)
Hit it with a rotary polisher, sheep's wool pad and 3M Marine compound.
Wash with dish soap again using a soft wash mitt, hit it with rotary again using a foam pad and 3M Finesse It.
Wash with dish soap and soft wash mitt.
When dry it gets 3 coats of Rejex to seal the gel coat.
Kept the shine all season and nothing sticks to the Rejex coating.

 

Heavy oxidation usually requires wet sanding. Keep in mind, the finish needs to shine before waxing or you did not prep it correctly. Most waxes contain oil and fillers so that is why it looks good for a few weeks.

Get some 1200 and 1800 wet sand paper, wet sand, buff with rotary/wool pad and heavy compound. Follow up with medium cut compound then wax.

 

Dancer Dave may be on to something, but from my experience. Wet sanding with the mildest paper you can use to get job done, then heaven compound, light compound, finesse then sealer them wax of choice. Many threads on brands and potions, but this is what will do it right. Get the shine you want BEFORE wax, otherwise it's a wasted effort. Get a good rotary buffer, not a random orbital. Nothing can do what rotaries can do. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Here's what I have been doing it was mostly written by Todd aka Nehalennia I put it in a word document there are many posts on it.

Buffers

Makita 7442C 7” Variable Speed Polisher
Porter Cable 7424XP 6” Variable Speed Orbital Polisher

Phase one: Cleaning
Start with a stiff deck brush and a strong Simple Green solution. Scrub your deck thoroughly. For the sides and smooth areas of the boat, use a softer brush but thoroughly clean. Pressure wash if possible, using care around caulked areas.
The Simple Green will strip any old waxes and built up gunk. In tough spots use Spray Nine and a stiff dishwashing brush by hand.

Phase two: Rough compounding
I use the Makita and a clean wool pad and 3M Super Duty Compound. Obviously with this product, it's the most aggressive so care is needed not to stay in one area too long. Be in control of your buffer and do one area at a time.

Phase three: Intermediate compounding
Use your Porter Cable or random orbital with a terry bonnet to remove. Keep that terry bonnet dedicated to this product's removal.

I use to really like Meguiar's #67 for the intermediate compounding, but have found 3M Finesse it II, to yield a shinier base. So the only thing with this product is that it doesn't seem to be as forgiving as the Meguiar's #67, so treat it like the Super duty compound, keep it moving.
AGAIN:Use your Porter Cable or random orbital with a terry bonnet to remove. Keep this terry bonnet dedicated to this product's removal.

Phase four: Polish
Switch over now to your Porter Cable, Shurholds or Meguiar's random orbitals. Don't try and get decent results with the larger 10" WEN or the like cheap random orbitals, you won't be as satisfied.
I use the lighter pads from http://properboatcare.com/ or http://www.autogeek.net/boatandrv.html designed for polishing.
Use Starbrite Polish with PTEF and work in the polish covering your workable area and go over and back over until you see the haze.
AGAIN:Use your Porter Cable or random orbital with a terry bonnet to remove. Keep this terry bonnet dedicated to this product's removal.

After I'm done I soak all the bonnets & pads in dish soap for a couple hours then wash on delicate cycle with bonnets & pads in a pillow case.

 

Elbow grease elbow grease elbow grease!! I use 3m marine compound then finesse it II. Mine was heavily oxidized. Came out pretty good. I picked up a 40 dollar variable speed buffer from HF.

Before (disregard top section that was done by hand. Just note below rub rail.)

After

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk