Have you checked under the cover, on the block, for an ID tag? Somewhere it should be tagged with the manufacturer...

 

 

This tag is on the transom bracket and that is all I can find

 

A lot of the Merc's, you just have to add a 0 (zero) in front of. Looks like it is likely a V-135? A couple pics might help to confirm that.

 

I would say, if it says Fond du Lac, it is a Merc. For a few years, Searay went through a phase where their power packages were colour matched to the boat, outdrives as well.
“The Fond du Lac Industrial Development Corporation offered Kiekhaefer 38 acres in a new industrial park — the former Corium Dairy Farm”

 

Sea Ray used Mercury engines on that boat. Although it's not needed for confirmation, your serial number does confirm it.

 

Scott, as Dennis said that is the number you will use to find the correct Mercury parts. There are a few differences in the earlier ones versus later builds and the cut-off for earlier parts is determined by that number. If you want to check that number in case the bracket has been replaced with a used part or the block has been changed over the years, look for the serial number stamped in the round metal freeze plug on the top of the block, just aft of the flywheel. You can see it without removing anything except the cowling. It may have been painted over. If so, just remove the paint carefully so as not to scratch the metal. It should match that number on the transom bracket if everything is original. This is a picture of what to look for...

A word of advice, if your engine still has the oil injection system, disable it, remove the tank and associated equipment and start using pre-mix. Those early model injection systems were undependable and ruined many engines. I have a pair of them and one was toasted because of that problem. Do some searches and you make the choice.

This forum I am attaching is the "go fast boys". There is a ton of info about the old BlackMax two strokes. You can learn a lot about these engines and where to get stuff. The hot rodders like these six cylinder Mercs cause they can be made to generate impressive HP with relatively light weight.

Scream And Fly Powerboat and High Performance Powerboating Discussion Forums

 

Scott, as Dennis said that is the number you will use to find the correct Mercury parts. There are a few differences in the earlier ones versus later builds and the cut-off for earlier parts is determined by that number. If you want to check that number in case the bracket has been replaced with a used part or the block has been changed over the years, look for the serial number stamped in the round metal freeze plug on the top of the block, just aft of the flywheel. You can see it without removing anything except the cowling. It may have been painted over. If so, just remove the paint carefully so as not to scratch the metal. It should match that number on the transom bracket if everything is original. This is a picture of what to look for...

A word of advice, if your engine still has the oil injection system, disable it, remove the tank and associated equipment and start using pre-mix. Those early model injection systems were undependable and ruined many engines. I have a pair of them and one was toasted because of that problem. Do some searches and you make the choice.

This forum I am attaching is the "go fast boys". There is a ton of info about the old BlackMax two strokes. You can learn a lot about these engines and where to get stuff. The hot rodders like these six cylinder Mercs cause they can be made to generate impressive HP with relatively light weight.

Scream And Fly Powerboat and High Performance Powerboating Discussion Forums

Scott, as Dennis said that is the number you will use to find the correct Mercury parts. There are a few differences in the earlier ones versus later builds and the cut-off for earlier parts is determined by that number. If you want to check that number in case the bracket has been replaced with a used part or the block has been changed over the years, look for the serial number stamped in the round metal freeze plug on the top of the block, just aft of the flywheel. You can see it without removing anything except the cowling. It may have been painted over. If so, just remove the paint carefully so as not to scratch the metal. It should match that number on the transom bracket if everything is original. This is a picture of what to look for...

A word of advice, if your engine still has the oil injection system, disable it, remove the tank and associated equipment and start using pre-mix. Those early model injection systems were undependable and ruined many engines. I have a pair of them and one was toasted because of that problem. Do some searches and you make the choice.

This forum I am attaching is the "go fast boys". There is a ton of info about the old BlackMax two strokes. You can learn a lot about these engines and where to get stuff. The hot rodders like these six cylinder Mercs cause they can be made to generate impressive HP with relatively light weight.

Scream And Fly Powerboat and High Performance Powerboating Discussion Forums

 

Here are pictures of the boat and motor and it is a V6

 

That is also the same number on the freeze plug. I was going to try to find part numbers for the stator and the switch boxes. I found a part number on 1 of the boxes 7778A13 but can’t seem to find that number lol. I will keep looking and reading thank you so much for the help

 

That is also the same number on the freeze plug. I was going to try to find part numbers for the stator and the switch boxes. I found a part number on 1 of the boxes 7778A13 but can’t seem to find that number lol. I will keep looking and reading thank you so much for the help

Welcome aboard Scott. Pretty nice boat you got there. What parts do you need, are you having a particular problem? She's a rare bird for sure.

 

I can’t get the plugs to fire suspect the stator or the switch boxes. Am I going in the right direction

 

Scott, not trying to be smartypants here, but be sure your neutral safety switch and the tether safety switch are not killing the ignition first thing before changing parts.

 

Scott, it appears that you want to tinker on the motor yourself and I am the same way. I will say that the first thing to do is buy this SELOC manual. While the factory manual is also useful, the SELOC manual is written by maintenance professionals but their descriptions and explanations are worded with the amateur mechanic in mind.

My motors have both been switched over to CDI ignition components. Many of the Mercury components are discontinued and unavailable so CDI is a good alternative. This is a link to their website showing the trigger on my engine. They have a number you can call and talk to a human.
https://www.cdielectronics.com/product/134-6456/

The SELOC manual has an extensive section on troubleshooting, no start, no spark, etc, but it is extensive. You say you suspicion the stator so I include this photo of a chart from that manual showing how to test the stator....

 

Scott, it appears that you want to tinker on the motor yourself and I am the same way. I will say that the first thing to do is buy this SELOC manual. While the factory manual is also useful, the SELOC manual is written by maintenance professionals but their descriptions and explanations are worded with the amateur mechanic in mind.

My motors have both been switched over to CDI ignition components. Many of the Mercury components are discontinued and unavailable so CDI is a good alternative. This is a link to their website showing the trigger on my engine. They have a number you can call and talk to a human.
https://www.cdielectronics.com/product/134-6456/

The SELOC manual has an extensive section on troubleshooting, no start, no spark, etc, but it is extensive. You say you suspicion the stator so I include this photo of a chart from that manual showing how to test the stator....

I have been looking at CDI as far as parts and Price and I got that service manual from eservicemanuals. I am happy to know I am going in the right direction. I am a master mechanic at Ford so I can work on cars and trucks lol boats are new to me.

 

You are not going to have any trouble then. There is a couple of guys on this forum that I know of that are Pros in the marine service business and they can give you more specific info than I.

 

Thank you for all your help and information. Like everything else in life you have to get your feet wet to learn and than you find out it wasn’t as bad as it looked to be.

 

The last boat I had was a 44’ SeaRay with twin 454’s I loved that boat till someone offered me more than I thought it was worth and I let it go. That was back in the late 1990’s so I think I am going to get back into it small and work my way up again.

 

Ok I know where the neutral safety switch is but where is the tether safety switch located

 

At the helm. Got a pic of the shifter/ignition switch?

 

I have a 1988 also and it does have one, but it does not look like the newer models with the clip. It is merely a toggle switch. I will post a picture after it gets daylight.

 

This is where my tether switch is mounted. Mine is wired into the wire from the fuse block to the key switch so when that switch is in the open condition, nothing in the start circuit will function. On our older boats there is no telling what kind of "geniuses" have worked on our wiring over the years. Just check on the back of your key switch for 12v.

 

I imagine that will move that boat along really well. My WOT is in the low 40s for a much heavier craft.

I have the 1994 V-135 BlackMax. The kill switch was not installed, but the parts manual for the ignition system shows the kill switch that Halfhitch posted.

I have not had any issues with my oil injection myself, I monitor the oil usage after trips and it's consistent with the consumption rate in the manual. I have chewed through Voltage Regulators though. I've replaced plugs, wires, coils past fall and did not resolve my issue, and have a loss of service availability for "Vintage" outboards in my area after my go to mechanic retired. I lack the diagnostic ability to determine if the root cause of failure has yet to be resolved and my current trigger and switch boxes are original part numbers but do not know if they have been replaced by previous owner. However, this fall I noticed my stator part number is non-mercury or CDI and could not verify compatibility. Going to be replacing my trigger, stator and switch boxes after shrink removal with CDI. Best price I found was from CDI direct for current stock not new old stock via their Amazon store. I do not have a SELOC manual, as I use the Mercury service book as a PDF on my phone out and about and select printed pages when doing work.

Edit: when you get to cosmetics, I found a pressure washer prewash followed by "totally awesome cleaner" and a scotchbright using light pressure, followed by post pressure wash did wonders on removing the black hull staining.

Edit Edit:
Your original switch box is listed as 7778A6 and can use CDI 114-7778
your original trigger is listed as 96455A9 and can use CDI 134-6456