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Nav/Anc Switch

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3.8K views 32 replies 7 participants last post by  Lazy Daze  
#1 ·
What is the typical set-up for the nav/anc rocker switch?
Down - nothing on.
Middle - Nav lights?.
Up - Anc Lights?

Just wondering if there is a standard or if every boat is different...Last summer was my first season with the boat so I honestly can't remember.

When I turn my switch to the up position my breaker trips within a second or two. Oddly enough I replaced every rocker switch on my panel this past winter EXCEPT this one lol. So hoping/assuming it's a mistake on my end when I rewired this switch in. I will check all connections and make sure I wired it right, but wondering if anybody else has some insight

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
normally a DPDT center off, up Nav, down Anchor
When you also include internal indicator lamps you can have a LOT of terminals on the back and it gets very confusing.
 

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#3 ·
Mine was definitely OFF-ON-ON I just can't remember the exact configuration of ON-ON. I took before pictures and made sure I wired it up exactly the same lol, but I will double check. Hopefully a terminal's just loose shorting out.

Thanks for the document
 
#4 ·
that one above was for an all around single white light

With a split anchor/masthead light and a separate stern light this is wiring.
Not shown is the white stern light is connected same as the red/green

Image
 
#6 ·
Alright I still don’t have this working... have finally been able to pull things apart to understand but still can’t find the short. Switch down = nothing. Switch middle = anchor light (both side of mast light come on) . Switch up = nav lights + (Front mast light comes on)

Breaker trips when I turn the nav lights on (up). I have confirmed that the red, green and stern light all come on quickly before tripping out. Triple checked my wiring, matches the pictures I took before hand. I pulled each light off and checked connections, all look ok.

I also took off the one connector that has 3 wires on it (the red wire you see in the picture with the big shrink wrap around it). When taking this off, mast front light comes on all ok. No nav lights as I’m assuming these wires go to those lights. As soon as I touch this connector back to the prong of the rocker switch (with it in the up position), breaker trips out. So safe to say this is the issue... but WHERE??

Is it possible the breaker could be bad? Or would it trip when turning on the anchor lights as well?

Ughh I hate when this stuff happens.
sorry for the long post just trying to give as much details as possible
 
#5 ·
Image


Image


That was the before pictures.
Looks like only room for 4 terminals on both sides. Right side only has 3

Edit: Didn't see your above post, thanks
 
#10 ·
Breakers get "tired" as they age and start to trip easier. Swap the breaker with another one of the same amperage and see what happens. This may not be the issue, but it's an easy thing to do.

However, when you switch to "up", you should be getting red/green and "some way" of having 360* of white lights. You mentioned only the front, white masthead light came on. Do you also have a transom light that comes on? The two of those would add up to 360*.
 
#20 ·
Not sure why picture isn’t showing argh, I have a feeling it isn’t any of these.. the fact I was replacing switches makes me think there’s an error on my side.

I took before and after pictures and they match exactly up.. now there are two wires that were dangling loose? Maybe one came off as I was pulling the panel back. I’m going to try to write down which wires go where on this rocker switch before I leave and see if something is missing..

Those two wires that were dangling were just exposed so I did tape them up back when I was putting the panel back on in March
 
#21 ·
https://www.fpmarine.com/Carling-rocker-switch-p/vxdj-1.htm

^That's the switch there

Image


Terminal 8 - Two wires (1 going somewhere probably power coming in, and 1 going to the third terminal down (jumper) so that is just bringing power to all 3 of those terminals because of the external jumper

Terminal 7 - 2 Black wires (probably just ground coming in and going out)

Terminal 1 - 1 Grey wire going to field (probably going to front or back mast light)

Terminal 3 - 3 wires going to this terminal. When I remove this terminal, circuit breaker does not trip when putting switch in the up position (Safe to say one of these wires or lights is shorted somewhere, correct?)

Terminal 6 - 1 Grey wire to field (probably going to front or back mast light)

Sorry for the confusing, i'm trying to give as much detail as possible so guys can make sure i'm on the right track and I am learning how this system works hah

So with that it looks like the switch configuration is like this:

Middle position - Both front and back mast light on (terminal 1 & 6 become hot)
Top position. - Red light, green light, stern light and front mast light come on (Terminal 3 & 1or6? not sure which one for the front light become hot.)

Again when i take of terminal 3, breaker does not trip and front mast light comes on OK, so ruling that one out. Red, Green and Stern light do not come on with this connecter removed because I am assuming these 3 wires go to those lights.

I completely disconnected stern light, put terminal 3 back on, still trips out.
Played around with the red and green bulbs and cleaned the connections, still trips out.
I have not completely removed the red and green lights from the circuit, that is my next step, just trying to figure out how these wires comes out
 
#23 ·
also check the bulbs in each socket that they match the socket type.
they normally are bayonet with a pin on each side equal height
And have two contacts on the bottom.

If someone inserted a single contact lamp it will short the two contacts in the socket

If you have narrowed it down to the red/green/stern light circuit.
And if you only have a single wire for all three at the switch.
Remove all three lamps and test if it blows the breaker with no lamps
 
#24 ·
Let me be clear, you need to set the switch aside and test the circuits individually.

The "replacement" switch may NOT be the same as the original and may be your problem
 
#25 ·
I also took off the one connector that has 3 wires on it (the red wire you see in the picture with the big shrink wrap around it). When taking this off, mast front light comes on all ok. No nav lights as I’m assuming these wires go to those lights. As soon as I touch this connector back to the prong of the rocker switch (with it in the up position), breaker trips out. So safe to say this is the issue... but WHERE??
From this I would say the switch is bad, but before you replace it, take all the connections off of it (First take a photo of it with your phone, and mark all the connectors so you get them back on in the right order) Then replace them one at a time. When the breaker trips you've found the circuit that has the problem. As I said, I think it's the switch itself but it could be something as simple as abraded wiring causing a short, or a bad socket for a light. That is another way to trouble shoot. Take each light out one at a time and turn on the switch. If it doesn't trip you've found the circuit with the problem. If it trips on all of them it's the switch. They are on a parallel circuit so the good ones should work with one light out of the circuit.
 
#27 ·
Well, solved the issue.. Just not sure exactly which connection it was. I disconnected green light, still no good. Disconnected red light, still no good.

Then I remembered the nav. lights also light up the backlight on the gauges. Removed that panel and pushed a couple connectors together and voila no more breaker tripping. Ugh what a pain electrical can be sometimes
 
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#28 ·
Good that you got it working. Sounds like it's what we were talking about above - loose or dirty connections. Even with dirty connections, you sometimes get lucky by just pushing them together/wiggling as that "scrapes" away the corrosion. It would probably be a good idea to take a little time and go through each one behind the dash and remove/clean/inspect.
 
#29 ·
Instead of making a new thread just thought I would ask here.

@Lazy Daze what should I use to reseal bow nav lights? 5200 or is that too permanent? 4200 then?
Should a dab be put into screw holes as well?

Also if you look in second picture, looks like there was no sealant before on the transom light. There was just like a rubber gasket. I should probably seal that up too eh?

Bow Light:
Image


Stern Light:
Image
 

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#30 ·
Instead of making a new thread just thought I would ask here.

@Lazy Daze what should I use to reseal bow nav lights? 5200 or is that too permanent? 4200 then?
Should a dab be put into screw holes as well?

Also if you look in second picture, looks like there was no sealant before on the transom light. There was just like a rubber gasket. I should probably seal that up too eh?

Bow Light:
View attachment 107189

Stern Light:
View attachment 107190
Not 5200!!! Yes, crazy permanent. There are a lot of different marine calking choices. Several folks have there preferences that you'll see here on the board. I'd dab some in the screw holes like you mentioned also. Unless you noticed it leaking, I'd just leave the rubber gasket on the transom light alone.
 
#31 ·
If someone had previously used 5200 for the bow light you would STILL be cussing them out... so you know the answer for that. Truthfully, 5200 has VERY limited applications. Even 4200 is stronger than what you need - all you need is a sealant - not an adhesive. Yes, a little bit on the threads, as well.

Since you've removed the sternlight, I'd put a small amount of sealant (again, no need for sealant) on the gasket (both sides) and reinstall. Do the same for the screws.
 
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