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Looking to remove Corsa side exit, thru-hull exhaust, and run through outdrive (normal) on 2016 280SLX...

6K views 30 replies 7 participants last post by  JasonM  
#1 ·
I am not the 1st owner of the boat, have had it for 4 years and the boat is great, but the side exit Corsa exhaust makes some noise (not a whole lot) even when it is switched off. I just want the boat as silent as possible, the exhaust is for fun and doesn't add any performance/top speed. Is there a way I can buy some stock exhaust system parts to swap out and then maybe sell the Corsa parts? I just want a pipe that goes from the header manifolds down to the outdrive area. I can deal with capping off the side exhaust ports to keep water out. I am attaching photos in hopes that someone will be able to give me some input. My local mechanic didn't think it was going to be an easy thing, but I (being a former car mechanic) think putting in stock pieces shouldn't be all that difficult.

Thank you!
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#3 ·
Oh yes, there is a switch and I keep it closed to 99% of the time. However, even when it is in the closed position, there is some exhaust that leaks past the metal flaps inside and the exhaust still kind of burbles out both sides of the boat through the ports. Like I said, it's not that loud, but I would prefer it to be silent. You can hear it especially when you pull in up against the dock and the sound echoes off of it. I was hoping there would just be a factory exhaust pipe that I could swap out in place of these Corsa pipes.
 
#5 ·
Yes, I verified they were shutting. I manually operated the little actuator arm, just isn't an airtight seal, which I understand is a difficult thing for a 4" exhaust. There is a pipe down below (seen in photo) that should probably stay (maybe?) and then I just need a connecting pipe from the exhaust manifold outlet to go to that pipe. Or perhaps it is a much different setup, and the engine would need pulling...hmm. Anyone have photos of their similar engine with regular exhaust?

Thank you
 
#6 ·
Could I get a pipe custom made that connects from these 2 points (circled in photo) and go that route? This would just bypass the side outlets (eliminate them) and just shoot it out the outdrive. Is there anything that needs taking into consideration otherwise? Any water that flows through them for cooling or anything?

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#8 ·
Interesting. Those sure look like they would fit, but I would compare / verify in the mercruiser parts lookup for stock exhaust for that engine.

If they are correct, your conversion will be very easy (aside from the fiberglass work to plug the holes in the fiberglass that remained after the exhaust removal.).

IMHO: Maybe it's just me, but love the sound of a big block with thru hulls. Wife has a different view, but the captains call would possibly be a middle ground.
 
#9 ·
The boat does sound good with it opened up, but it's a cruiser that tops out at 46mph, so it doesn't feel very genuine having a boat that sounds like a racer, but is actually slow.

I would probably leave the ports in the fiberglass and just make caps inside.

Does anyone have a link for a parts diagram for these engines?
 
#11 ·
That is excellent thank you

I am thinking the only issue is that the mercruiser elbow pipe is oval on the outward end, and mine looks to have a round pipe, maybe not? I will have to open it up this evening and take a closer look and see if I could still make it work, perhaps with an oval-to-round adapter of some kind.
 
#12 ·
Yup, you can do what you're talking about. The Merc exhaust manifold is stock and you will have the stock Y-pipe down below. Everything in the middle can go away and you can go back to stock.

Once you get past the exhaust manifold (which carries exhaust gas and water via a "pipe within a pipe"), everything is an open pipe.

The rubber boots that connect things are flexible.
 
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#13 ·
Yes! I opened it up and looked more closely tonight and I do have the stock lower manifold! I will order these Mercruiser elbows and it will actually be a very simple change. Very excited this will be straight forward. My only question, there is a small black hose that connects off the side of the block through a brass fitting (smaller one in pic) and goes into the Corsa pipes. I am thinking it is water to keep the on/off butterfly valve cool? I would guess that hose can just be blocked off. Pics attached:

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Also, here's a pic of where it attaches to the lower manifold:
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#14 ·
[HEADING=2]44267A02[/HEADING]

I looked up that part number, and the elbow does not look correct. It only has 1 bend in it, where the one I require would have to have 2 bends. The elbow I found on Amazon looks to be just the right shape, seen here:

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I have to verify the part numbers, but the 44267A02 doesn't seem to be the one for my engine.
 
#16 ·
Final question:

This pipe comes with a 2", 4" or 6" riser, and I don't know which one I would need. Any way I can verify this part of the equation?

(PS - Sorry for so many posts this evening, I normally do not have any caffeine, but I had a little bit early today and it still has me wired!)
 
#19 ·
Small hose... remove the bronze elbow and replace it with a bronze pipe plug.

A riser will raise the exhaust elbow in a system where there is a separate elbow and riser. You don't have that - nor do you need to mess with changing the height of your elbow since that's already set. You just need the correct length down pipe between the exhaust elbow and y-pipe - or modify the existing SS pipe work.
 
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#21 ·
Ok, that's a good idea using a brass plug.

After googling about risers last night, I kind of figured that, but just am not really sure how to go about picking the correct pipe. Not sure if there's a way to contact a dealer to get the part number for my exact boat since they use that engine in so many different brands/models.

Hate to spend $400 for the wrong ones...
 
#24 ·
I realize I may not have explained the riser/elbow thing accurately enough. although you likely already figure this part out. While you don't have a "separate" riser, you do have a riser. However, the elbow is ALSO the riser - it's an all-in-one thing.

I've never actually measured an elbow like you have to say WHERE to measure it. It might be the distance from the top of the manifold to the underside of the elbow... how "high" the elbow is above the manifold. But again, I'm not positive.

Unless someone joins in with definitive info, check with your local Merc shop. If they don't know right away, see if they have one in stock (doesn't matter what rise it is) and figure out where the 2" (or whatever) is measured.

Once you know the dimension of the riser you have, you can order the correct downpipe.
 
#25 ·
So, based off of those diagrams, and me having the option of 2, 4 and 6 inch riser option for the pipe, I would guess mine is a 6" maybe? From the top of the manifold, the elbow that comes off it from factory is possibly about 6 inches tall. I'm attaching the photo again for reference:

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#26 ·
I took these today. I am going to guess I need the ones for a 6" riser. This riser that is the factory manifold is roughly 6" tall, and the whole pipe I need is roughly 2 feet long, which I think is about the length of the new pipe I am looking at ordering.

Any thoughts? If they would let me return them, I wouldn't worry if they were incorrect, but they are direct from the factory, special order, so not sure if it would work that way.


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#28 ·
Any thoughts? If they would let me return them, I wouldn't worry if they were incorrect, but they are direct from the factory, special order, so not sure if it would work that way.
Post #24, paragraph #3. If no joy, let your fingers do the walking. Or call Merc directly.
 
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