Having a special bolt made is cheap.

 

I just had mine apart and made the shaft m-8. Keep in mind now that you opened it the finger it will be very loose on the shaft and may not work correctly. To salvage this you may need to try to have a shaft made with 3/8 threads at the bottom, then smooth 8mm in the area of the spring, then to 3/8 dia. where the shaft meets the area of the finger you drilled open. I made mine with a wrench flat in the middle where the spring is so I could tighten it.

 

do yourself a favor and switch to chain....you will never need to worry about that tension finger again....I just did and operating the windlass is SOOOOO much easier now...

cliff

 

I just did the same thing, went to all chain, and now my pressure finger works perfectly.

I had read the stories about the Progress 1 pressure finger on CSR, so when I got my boat, I immediately took off the finger the PO had left dangling. His stud also sheared off, so he replaced it with a standard bolt. The spring was broken and the whole finger just flopped around.

I purchased the spring from another member here, ordered the stud, washer, and cap nut from Imtra, and put it all back together. I'm now able to sit at the helm or stand at the foot switches and retrieve my anchor without having to pull rope through the windlass.

I hear ya Cliff, so happy to be done with that hassle!!!

 

Curious how much the "all chain" solution was. I am having an issue with my the windlass on my 02 380DA. I think it is just the spring, but if I get to the point where it is not cost effective to repair, chain might be a good solution.

Thanks,
Vince
Palm Harbor FL
28°03’”N 82°46’”W

 

I got 100' of galvanized G4 high tensile strength delivered to my door for $278....

cliff

 

I had that same problem. A friend who is a field technical liaison for Porsche said that they use Time-Serts to fix all damaged threads. Since he already had the installation tools, I bought a couple of the correct size stainless steel inserts. Problem solved.

The nice thing about Time-Serts is that they are as strong as the original threads were, if not stronger. Even better, they have a line of inserts for holes that are really oversized.
http://www.timesert.com

 

I got chain here for my Progress 1:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWYE3KA?tag=viglink22074-20

 

Same here. Finger sucked.. tried rewearing and adding material to the finger so it was solid and not worn, friend new 50-60 buck spring, tried both together....

250 foot of all chain now, bolt and finger removed. Not once have I had to second guess it or touch It. Hit button from helm and it comes up. No worries

Paid 600 for 200 foot of chain made for windless. Out of Florida sealer I found on eBay, messages him and bought

 

75' of chain and no issues with binding, feeding or the finger. Very smooth and like others, I can now use the switch from the helm.

 

After tracking down an elusive finger and replacing the spring, I still had the rode slipping at the splice. I suppose newer (less stiff) rode might have helped, but I just changed out to 150' of chain, and now it drops and raises without issue from the helm. There's not much more stressful than being unable to retrieve the anchor from the helm, when you are single-handing close to shore.

 

Cliff

Where did you order your chain from

John

 

I ordered mine from Marine Now as well. They seem to have about the best prices.

 

Ordered mine from Marine Now as well. 5/16 G43 200ft $584. Free shipping.

 

What do you all use as "tether" to secure the chain to the boat cleat rather than hanging directly on the windlass? Just a bridle and a snap?

 

Just do a search for "Anchor Safety Strap". You'll find multiple options.

 

I've been avoiding going all chain as stuck anchors are a concern on Lake Lanier. Do you guys carry bolt cutters just in case??

I already have 25' in front of the rode, Can /how do you spliced? Have them welded?

I gotta admit, progress 1 suck.

 

I used this to join the existing 30 feet to the new chain. Works well through the gypsy.
Industrial Grade 1DJR1 Connecting Link, 5/16 In, 1950 Lb Cap

I carry a file in the tool box to sand off the nubs on the link, then I can separate the two chains. I also left the original rope/chain attached to the boat so I can cut the rope in case all the chain is deployed.

 

I solved both issues by using the factory rope, and chain section. I cut all but 15 foot of rope off, and then attached the rope back to the loop inside the anchor locker. And then a chain link to connect the old chain to new. So if I did get stuck, you could let all the chain out and cut the line with a knife... would suck but works. And allows me to have the extra chain connected to new Chain. And have yet to need more then my 200 solid chain. Normally 100 is planty

 

I bought 2 fingers and studs thinking I could get it working, but having spent a couple months with it, I’m rethinking. Sell the parts and the chain isn’t a whole lot more.

 

I have all chain. 200’ of it. Works great.
Only problem I have with it is the heavy chain lays on the very mucky bottoms around here and comes up filthy and smelly. I usually have to let it all out when I get back to my dock, clean the locker, and hose off the chain with the garden hose on my dock while I retrieve it back in to the locker.
The upside is that my anchor and chain holds a decent size raft up in pretty strong winds.

 

Or a small aircraft carrier!