Bought mine online from a company called "Concentric". I talked to them on the phone. They were extremely helpful. They even changed the gear ratio for me so it would rise faster than the original slow actuator. All said and done, easy job, couple hundred dollars.

 

Have you tried verifying that the motor does get power and the connections are solid, cleaning the motor first might save some money
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=linier+hatch+motors&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-002

 

Riptide: I'll check out "Concentric".

Bt Doctor: When I hit the switch, the electric motor gives me a turn or two and then bogs down. After a couple of go-arounds with the intermittent switch, my son was able to get ahold of the hatch and apply upward pressure, thereby relieving the load on the motor and we were able to open the hatch fully.

 

LTD330 I don't know if this will work or not but did you try to lubricant the cylinder ? That happened to me on my windshield vent window when I bought my old boat. The window wouldn't hardly even move and I kept spraying it and trying it and it finally started opening and closing smooth and fast. Maybe if your lucky the Dawn soap took all the lubricant off the cylinder. Good luck

 

Also check if you have full voltage going to the motor. Were you just on battery, were they fully charged?

 

The batteries were fully charged and the boat was plugged into shore power with the battery charger on. The two house batteries were replaced two years ago and the starboard engine and generator batteries were replaced last year. I'm fairly confident the batteries are in good shape as both motors cranked hard when starting.

 

Some actuators have a grease fitting (mine doesn't) that can provide lube to the gear. Mine was slow to open for a few years, and my local mechanic changed the electrical connection to get more voltage to the motor, and solved the problem. Your results may vary....good luck.

Don

 

When I said check the power I meant at the motors connections. Being low in the bilge that could just be corroded.
But if you wish to send it to me for inspection / armature cleaning before spending a lot of money/

 

Had same problem and it wasn't the motor. Actually, two things contributed to it stop working.
First, the wiring; this assembly requires quite a bit of electrical current when opening. When you look at how the wiring is routed (breaker panel to helm switch to actuator) it's a bit of surprise we don't have more problems. So I changed mine to operate off a couple of relays which are directly tied to a new 40 Amp circuit breaker at the main battery disconnect panel and the switch on the helm simply operates the relays. The two relays are standard Bosch 50 amp units in a 4X4 junction box in the engine room not far from the actuator.
The second issue are the seals on the top of the actuator housing; they get no lubrication at all and end up dragging to the point the actuator rod cannot move through them. The seals are two O-rings spaced about 1/4" apart. Remove the actuator from the boat and disassembly to allow the ram to be removed from the motor's side (it's a simple disassembly) Clean up the seals and the grooves they sit in and pack with wheel bearing grease. While it is apart you could install a grease zirk and periodically pump some grease in there.

 

As recall, Sea Ray use Acculift actuators on the 330DA. Here is an old thread for reference. http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/7947-Acculift-Linear-Actuators

 

good luck getting a hold of Acculift, I have been trying for 3+ weeks, as well as my mechanic..
no one answers their automated phones,
when you finally get through to a voice mail, no one calls you back, t
hat also includes using the "contact us" options online and sending multiple emails..
at this point i had to go aftermarket, and waiting for them to arrive this Friday..
only issue im worried about is clearance with the aftermarket ones as they are a slightly different design..

https://www.progressiveautomations.com/linear-actuator-ip66#ig

 

To close out this thread I replaced my 18-inch linear actuator with a Warner Electric K2G20-12v-BR-18 for $363. I found it at Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XT6B2G/

I also bought an eight foot 2x4 that I cut several inches off of to use as a brace for the hatch while I replaced the actuator.

 

Wonder if this would work on my boat I have two on my boat seems like they're getting a little tired


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Wonder if this would work on my boat I have two on my boat seems like they're getting a little tired

You would need to verify the stroke length on your current actuators to make sure they are 18". In my research, I found all sizes. The most popular sizes I ran across for boats were the 18" and 24" models.

The replacement process was fairly straight forward. A 3/4" ratchet and wrench were all that were needed to remove the bolt from the bottom of the actuator. The only issue I had was there wasn't much rope to work with when I spliced in the electrical connections.

 

The ones for the vent in the windshield are 100 bucks, online. Turns out, mine was fine. I had loose and dirty contacts in 2 pin connector for the actuator. Once I cleaned them off a bit and mated them securely, it was working well.

 

and if you want pics...

And yes, I cleaned I up before reassembly

 

and if you want pics...
View attachment 67841
View attachment 67842
View attachment 67843

And yes, I cleaned I up before reassembly

In a week I will be challenging my 2 actuators as they are doing weird noises going up... did you remove the piston from the mechanism and do you have pictures? any trick to desassemble the screw from the inside of the piston?
thanks in advance

 

It looks like I have the same actuator for my 1999 38' Searay, hatch won't go up or down what is the make model of the actuator? Did you replace yours with the same one? Where did you buy it?

 

Google “concentric linear actuator”. Call them up. They were very helpful for me. I bought an actuator that 2as more powerful and they changed the gearing so it was twice as fast. Reasonably priced also.