I'd guess that three years of wear is making that small difference. I'd think the cable adjustment should solve the problem, if something abnormal hasn't happened along the way. It sounds to me like being winterized was just a coincidence. A shift cable adjustment could just about be expected over the course of three years, given a reasonable amount of use.

 

I was looking at it an do I need to do a whole re adjust or give the barrel 2 turns and see if it lock in. The lower one

 

It could have done it last year and being in the water didn't notice. I tried everything before I left house

 

Also if I put the shifter on reverse and disconnect lower cable and a slight pull gives me reverse will a couple of turns work

 

So I went out and did some messing with it, I DID not make any adjustments. I unhooked the cable and pull it towards the bow it is like neutral. If I put it back on where it was it clicks in reverse. I have no idea if it is too much to the bow and it spins free, that would mean it stretched. But can it be pushing to far forward that it won't catch. So it seems to me I need to shorten it a few mm. I don't know, that's why I'm asking

 

The way you initially described it, with it clicking but not immediately engaging in reverse, I would say that it was not far off. As such, 2 turns of the barrel (toward reverse) would be fair to try and see.

I'm sorry, but I was not able to keep up with what you posted after that.

When you started, the center point of the shift throw was favoring forward just a little bit.
Moving that barrel towards reverse a couple turns, may center it where you want it.

I think the spec measurement is 6" from the center of the barrel to the hole in the end of the cable end. I have CRS though, and don't have an Alpha Manual.

You should be able to tell if your initial adjustment was short or long though. Just be sure to adjust it as little as needed because you don't want to start exhibiting the same issue in forward.

 

How do you turn the barrel it looks like it has a pin in it or through it or is it an allen key very very small I do not know the only other adjuster I have is at the end with a 10 mm lock nut and I would thread the whole thing in, if that makes sense please sorry

 

I wouldn't think it could be pushed too far forward as it would be limited by the mechanical pieces and that the cable moves Is that correct or am I thinking backwards

 

Of course! EVERYTHING works find till it doesn't!

Lower shift cable will need replacing. You may be able to limp along for a bit with a slight adjustment - but be careful not to limp along at the sake of your gears grinding away.

See if you can adjust the barrel nut to "re-find" neutral. This means when you put the control box into forward and notice the degree of ratcheting when spinning the prop by hand that it will match the ratcheting when in reverse.

That's about the best you can do.

Go head and double check that you have 6" - "maybe" the set screw slipped... although that's low on the likelihood table.

 

The shifter is pulling the cable towards the bow. I I pulled it more the clicking went away but no gear, was like neutral, so the cable would need to be shorter correct

 

I only have a month of boating 2 or 3 times out because of fall from ladder last year

 

If I put it in reverse right now, all it does is click. So with the cable need to be tightened or lengthened

 

So if I can't spend my barrel nut do I just shorten the cable by loosening the 10 mm lock nut and shortening the cable

 

 

Scott, some barrels were threaded to turn and then some were not. It's been at least 20 years since I had an Alpha and didn't remember which was where. I thought I understood you to say initially the barrel was threaded and turned. That not being the case, the quickest sure fix may well be to replace lower shift cable as LD eluded to.

Can you post a pic of that cable to include the end and the barrel?

 

So the barrel is on the treaded rod but does not spin. So if I'm in neutral from the barrel to the eyelet , center to center should be 6 inches. It's just suck how it sat all summer until I get the energy to use it and I might get reverse,might not. I appreciate it

 

I don't understand how if the cable stretched, and I took it off and pulled on it why it would not ratchet and spin free. So it would be need to be shorter?

 

The barrel nut will spin.

 

Sorry guys it's on the threaded rod but looks to be like factory pinched so you cannot turn it only adjustment is where the cable is attached at rear bracket, it's locked with a 10 mil nut. Then whole piece will adjust. Saw on line where someone drilled out the factory pinched and turned the barrel.

 

Yes, then you will need to drill the pinch point as described to allow the barrel to turn, which will allow for the adjustment after you do so. You do have that video describing that process?

I think you'll find the 10mm jam nut does not provide adjustment, but rather fastens it solidly to the bracket after the adjustment is made.

 

Might be cheaper and easier to have a knowledgeable mechanic do it. For a few extra bucks, maybe he’ll let you watch.

 

The cable fits into a bracket where the barrel is and is held in a formed space for the barrel nut then a cotter pin. So after drilling and getting it 2 spin, so I adjust it to make it a little shorter or longer? I honestly I do not know if I want it shortened a hair or longer

 

The 10 mm bolt does not hold in the cable. Cable is held in by a cotter pin though a bracket that the barrel fits in. So if cable stretched I would want to shorten correct?

 

Personally, I've never seen a barrel nut pinched. Strange. And, quite honestly, there's no reason for that - it's captive.

 

I've seen that, like they set the adjustment for you. Cable replacement for dummys

 

For adjusting... see my previous note. Easy enough to figure out. Count your turns.

 

Lazy I get that. I just don't know if I should be moving the barrel towards the front of motor or towards the back?