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How to replace duckbills on a 380 vacuflush.

16K views 27 replies 21 participants last post by  ttmott  
#1 ·
My vacuflush was not flushing, the vacuum pump was making noise, and I read every thread I could find to try and determine the problem. Water was staying in the bowl, so I deduced that there was either a blockage or...the dreaded "duckbills" had to be replaced. In all the threads, I couldn't actually find instructions...just people saying it was simple and messy (if you gave instructions, please forgive me...I just didn't find them). Anyway, given that I have a seven year old boat and having lost complete faith in the assertions of the seller that "all services have been done and the boat was meticulously maintained". I decided to go after the ducks.

I have read the manuals, and done a little homework (in fact, I followed the instructions and repacked the fart filter...thanks CSR!)-so I knew vaguely what the vacuflush looked like. I turned off power to the unit, found some latex gloves, and went to work. Not a really bad idea to use a digital camera while you are doing this and take pictures in case you need to retrace your steps.

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Although I didn't know it at the time, the goal was to get to the black pump looking thing in the center of all that white plastic. To get there, take the top curved plate off (there are two small phillips screws). You will then see the pump.

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It is connected to a wiring connector and a black and red wire with pull apart connectors. Pull them apart.

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The pump itself is bolted to the main tank with four 7/16ths bolts. Loosen them and remove (the back two are a bit tough to get to). Now you have to twist the collars holding the pump on. I used a big pair of pipe pliers and they came loose (I also was prepared with a cool strap wrench that was completely worthless...I should have bought Craftsman instead of Harbour Freight for this one).

After twisting off the pipes, the pump was loose and I removed it for inspection.

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Have a hose and some towels and disinfectant handy...its a little messy. Inside the tubes on both sides are the first of the duckbills (duck bills?). The one on the right just pulled straight out. The one on the left was encased in a piece of exterior shell that had to be twisted off.

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I used a small pair of pliers to pull out the offending ends

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and replace them with new. What was not intuitive is that the two pipe ends also have duckbills.

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and

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The connector on the left was simply a pull out and replace. The one on the right required that I disconnect the two pipes and replace the new duckbill.

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.

Now it was simply time to reverse the process and reassemble.

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I wish I had taken some PVC pipe dope and added some extra sealing to the pipes, but they sealed pretty well. Otherwise, it went well. You are definitely dealing with some gunky mess, but not a lot of it, and nothing that gloves, a towel, and some sanitizing spray can't handle.

Hope this helps the next guy.
 
#2 ·
Great write up Naughti! That job is on my list for the near future and I appreciate your efforts. At first I thought you bought your boat from my previous owner last month!! He too said "all service up to date, have done everything that needed to be done"! Until I asked him when the impellers were replaced, the response, "what are impellers?", I knew I was in trouble......Again, thanks.
 
#3 ·
Nauti,

Boy, it is really nice to have a dockmate who is qualified in this task!

Nice writeup - thanks - mine will be next.
 
#4 ·
Nice write up, Your set up looks the same as mine, I'll save this thread for future reference. Thanks for posting
 
#6 ·
I agree - thanks for the write up and photos. I was searching on the same topic and couldn't find any info other than "replace the duckbills". My pump was running continuously but then stopped on its own and works fine now. I assume from reading other posts that something (TP?) got stuck. This will be great info for future reference.
 
#7 ·
Funny, I forgot that's the reason I went in. I found what looked like an old toothpaste cap stuck in one of the middle ducks. Cannot for the life of me figure out how it got through, but it was there and the way it was wedged affected flow pretty substantially.
 
#8 ·
Nice writeup and pics. I may have to do this soon so I'll bookmark this topic.

Just a tip for VacuFlush owners...the reps from the company said when you use it, always let the foot pedal snap back to the top position, don't raise it slowly with your foot. That helps to keep the rotating ball and other internal parts free of anything that might clog the system and keep it from working properly.
 
#14 ·
Just a tip for VacuFlush owners...the reps from the company said when you use it, always let the foot pedal snap back to the top position, don't raise it slowly with your foot. That helps to keep the rotating ball and other internal parts free of anything that might clog the system and keep it from working properly.
This is a good one! Other tips they (Dometic Vacuflush) gave me were:

1. Clean your toilets and system exclusively with Cascade dishwasher powder.
2. Do NOT put holding tank deodorizer chemicals down the toilet - it dissolves the duckbills - rather add it thru the suckout hole.
3. Lubricate the ball and seal regularly with Synco/Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Lubricant (spray is definitely most convenient)

http://www.amazon.com/Synco-Superlu...perlube-Multipurpose-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B0016GTSBY/ref=acc_glance_sg_ai_ps_t_4
 
#12 ·
Agreed. The pump was hard to get at but reading through this made it worth while. It took me about 2 hours total with the most frustrating thing being the two little screws associated with the shield and getting them back on.
 
#13 ·
Nice job Your Honor! This is actually something in my boat that is fairly EASY to do. I don't have to take the pump out - it's mounted to a piece of grey Searay plywood in the bilge. I had no idea how to do it but the duckbills come with a small sheet of paper with line drawings which were pretty self explanatory. I was told it is helpful to run a few flushes of soapy water through first (assuming your pump is working correctly) and keep rags handy for the "overflow"
 
#17 · (Edited)
As I went to change my duckbills, all went to hell on the second thing I touched. When I went to remove the union on the right (dip tube) it crumbled. I ordered a new one, hope it’s here by Thursday.... besides that, this went real well. Mine looked to be close to needing it, they didn’t look completely closed like the new ones.... here is a piece, it almost looked like the PO or mechanic had used some white tape in it. Lucky it was still working

here is the part I had to order
https://www.environmentalmarine.com...RCdARIsAGEX0zlwufOUlEEnOdZOpqmAp_eBaOutFbviw9pdsm-D1imE6j2lrViUQKUaAnjCEALw_wcB
 

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#22 ·
410 with two heads, one pump? or two? to replace duck bills?
mine works great holds water flushes great, just the amp meter in panel cycles when fwd or aft is on... so i am assuming two systems two separate rebuild on vacu flush?

also 2inch or 1 1/2 kits

Thanks in Advance
 
#23 ·
I unfortunately need to replace my duckbill valves. there is some stinky water in the toilet. When I pull the pump is that water coming out or do I just need to deal with the extreme smell?
 
#24 ·
If water isn’t removing from the toilet with the pump on, you could have stuff blocking the line causing it, or bad duckbill valves

There is 4 total. I have a weak stomach, and I will say it wasn’t bad at all….
 
#27 ·
As has been mentioned many times on CSR, on reassembly do not crank down on any of the nuts (metal or large plastic). Strip any fittings or crush any gaskets O rings or duck bill rims will be a big problem.