Mask and snorkel.

 

Damn you Mike. You beat me to it.

Jack

 

LOL...
Too much of a setup to resist...

 

Terry, Time to take a swim.

 

Yeah, I figured that was going to be the answer but I thought you guys were gurus who had super hero powers when it came to solving simple problems:lol:. I guess I'll just have to man up instead.:grin:

 

You might try backing into a ramp and then slowly pulling it in with drives up in trailer mode.. Having a dock to tie up to should keep you out of trouble. While you are at it replace the anode.:smt001

 

Thats food for thought 2000SEARAY280SS. An early morning, no wind and an incoming tide might do the trick. Might try a sandy beach rather than a concrete ramp though. Thanks for the idea :smt115. You get guru status for coming up with an idea that prevents me from getting wet :lol:.

Terry

 

Terry,
Hi (late) again.

This is a bit late answer to your question but I think I can give you the exact answer as we have the same engine and drive.
I've changed my zincs on may 10 but my drive zinc has gone more then its half, so its time to change it.

I guess you don't know that the drive zinc on the DPG drive (which we have) is on the prop shaft and to achieve it we must uninstall the two props. It is hard to do in the water. You must have the two part prop removal tool which is suplied with the engine and ask for your dealer if they didn't give you.

But I do it in a shallow part of my marina by jumping into the water and my wife helps me from the swim platform to put the props, nuts, tools etc.

DPH(R) drives D4 and D6 engines have, the zinc (diagonal shaped) of the drive is just above the exhaust. I was replacing in my previous boat that zinc in the hook/anchored and no matter the depth is, just raise the drive to lift range and by laying on the swim platform changed the zinc by only my hands were touched to the sea.

Below picture is from my current boat and if you look carrefuly should see the O shaped zinc between the propsand leg.
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/melida315/2010%20spring%20maintenance/12052010785.jpg

This picture is from my former boat, had D4-210-DPH and its obvious to see the zinc over the exhaust and seems how easier to replace then DPG(our's) drive zinc.
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/melida315/D4-210-DPH/Grnt0811.jpg

Hope this late info is useful to you.

Best regards.
Melida

 

You could also get a test probe made of Silver-Silver-Chloride and take regular voltage readings of your systems status as well. I do this about once per month. It lets me know if my anodes are covered in growth, and/or are getting weak. Then I jump in and physically check em. If everything is working correctly, you should have appx -1.0V DC from your grounding system to the test probe in the water. If it is more or less then that will tell you if your over-protected (which is not neccesarily a good thing), or under protected (i.e. your anodes are failing, are not big enough, or are covered in growth).

Just a suggestion if you want to keep up on it in this fashion.

 

I am a new boater as well and have a 340 Sundancer. How often should anodes be replaced on maintainence schedule?

Thanks

 

Count on once a year, if they are doing their job and you have the correct amount and type installed. Otherwise, could be more often. I use aluminum ones on my boat and am in brackish water. I can get a season and a half out of mine pretty easy.

 

Thanks guys. Good to hear from you again Melida. It seems we DPG owners are doomed to jump in the water to replace these anodes if we want to do it outside of other servicings. I like the post that suggests we back up to a ramp in trailer mode. That would be promising in warmer weather at some of our calm beaches with sandy bottoms. As for jumping in the marina....well...let's just say not at my marina. Along with surface scum and fuel rainbows I've seen too many unmentionables floating around to want to jump in and swim with all that. :wow: Besides our marina prohibits swimming. I must do some research on the voltage test idea. :smt024 That sounds promising.

 

Terry,
Hi again and glad to hear from you.
I think this will be my last changing the zinc in the water because I'm gonna repower my boat with D6-370-DPH.:smt001
Even my summer marina is in a swimming/water sports club and international contests are done there and the sea water is daily inspected for any microbial organisms and no fuel dock I always wear my cressi's for checking underwater and replacing the zincs.:thumbsup:
By the way if you need I can sell my KAD300 and its components to you to make your boat twin engine or keep it as a spare.:grin:
Best regards
Melida
PS. what about your boat's performace? Cruising, wot rpm and speed also have you get used to using the trim tabs and drive trim?

 

I think this will be my last changing the zinc in the water because I'm gonna repower my boat with D6-370-DPH.:smt001
By the way if you need I can sell my KAD300 and its components to you to make your boat twin engine or keep it as a spare.:grin:
Best regards
Melida
PS. what about your boat's performace? Cruising, wot rpm and speed also have you get used to using the trim tabs and drive trim?

Hi Melida. Sorry, but you can't repower your boat. Who would I discuss KAD300, DPG and Searay in the same sentence with? :smt089

Thanks for the offer to make my boat a twin but I think that might be just beyond my technical competence :lol:.

Well I have taken the boat out maybe six or seven times now and everytime I feel a little more comfortable in it. Partly that is because I have been out when the weather has not been so nice and felt how the boat deals with a big wave or a following sea. So far as performance is concerned, this is what I have found: (4 people on board with full fuel and full water).

WOT is 3900 rpm (in accordance with manufacturers recommendations).

Speed about 28 kts

Just on the plane: 3100-3200 rpm

Speed about 21-22 kts.

Fuel consumption: still not quite sure but around 30 litres and hour. This is very cheap to run.:smt038

Overall I think that is little slower than your boat but then I have a C2 prop on which ensures rpm does not exceed 3900 rpm at WOT.

I have the trims figured out now but I still think it would be good if an indicator told us what position the tabs are in.

I can get the stern leg to trim to beach position, but how do I get the stern leg to trim up to trailer postion?


Regards

Terry

 

Terry,
It's not easy to decide repowering for me. I was happy with KAD300, simple and economical.
Also with the great help of Henry Boyd and DPMulvey from this board I enlarged my trim tabs and put back C4 prop set. Especially thousands of thanks again for Dpmulvey I emailed lots of to him about my performance datas of new tabs because he also did for his boat and gave me lots of suggestions such as the stifennings and negative angle etc.
But since I put C3 and then turned back to C4 due to the overweight of people, diesel and water from full to 3/4 tank of fuel my boat struggles to plane, altough through wind wont plane. Later the tank shows below 3/4 boat planes but in bad weather again difficult to plane.
Last weekend I leaved my boat at my winter marina for ten days and there is no current the underwater of my boat became dirty and black antifouling changed to a brown mud.
I'm not gonna haul out and pressure water to not killing the antifouling just gonna wipe with the scotchbrite's yellow side by diving.
Only I was on board, full water and fuel between full and 3/4 boat planed but didn't pass 3050-3100 rpm while must do 4000-4100 felled off plane when wave came.
So I'm started to thinking that enlarged trim tabs 40x50(cm) are good to plane but 285 hp 570 nm torque 3.6lt engine power is less to push my boat in difficult conditions. So I'm thinking to buy D6-370-DPH 370hp 850nm torque 5.5lt.
Before buying the D6 I'm gonna try to open up/tune up the injection pump to gain more hp and torque if t is possible in KAD300 because its semi electric diesel and know that the KAD31-32-41-42-44 engines would gain 30-40hp and 70-80nm more by this method. If its applicable to my engine gonna try if not start to get quotes from Volvo Penta dealers for new engine.
Even if I would repower could answer your questions about KAD300 beacuse I have 3 friends currently have KAD300 in their 280DA and 300DA's.
According to your sea trial with windy/wavy sea conditions 3100-3200 rpm is acceptable and your speed is good. But in good conditions you should(must) plane at 3000 or 2900rpm.
3900rpm is manufacturer suggested wot and if you could get it again with good mood of sea/weather dont change the props. But I suggest you to use C3 or C4 prop set. Try them with 4 people and full liquids. You must see 3900rpm and get better wot then C2 28 knot. When I put C3 with 1/4 fuel no water and water heater only me and minimum gear, clean bottom,props,tabs and leg I got 28.7 knots and with full water,fuel,heater and 8 people got 27.5 knots.
Try my suggestions and if you are happy with current prop set leave them on. You should do at 3000rpm 20knots and at leats 25knots at 3500 rpm which is maximum permitted extended cruising speed (10% less then wot)
Your fuel consumption 30 liter I guess you calculated it by refueling the tank after your sea trial while you started with full fuel. But its a little more then mine. I did last tank average 13.5LPH and it was containing 3 hours run of 2900rpm full tabs down full drive in (-8 -9 degree), 2 hours fast cruise at 3500 rpm 25-27 knots, 2 hours at 1500rpm (before kompressor kicks in) no wake zone/hull speed and 20 hours at cruising speed 3000rpm no tabs 0 +1 +2 trim. Totally did nearly 27-28 hours. You should have same range of hours.
Before planning and before 1500 rpm kompressor kicks in trim the drive (leg) fully down to -9, if it wont go -9 you must service your drive and fully deploy the trim tabs. Hit the throtle more then to 1500 rpm and you will hear the voice of kompressor is whistling and slightly raise it but dont hammer down like a gas engine. Our engine's have both compressor and turbo so you should do steady throtle opening. Then when you reach to 2500 rpm and pass it the voice changes from whistle to lion roar which the kompressor stops and turbo kicks in and the bow raise stops and as you hit the throtle through 3000 rpm bow will drop. Once you reach to 3000rpm you should run about 18-20knots and then raise the drive from -9 to 0 1 by 1 degree, once push and wait and see there is no rpm and speed drop and come to 0 degree. Then slowly fully retract the trim tabs which takes 5 seconds. After all these according to sea conditions max trim to +2 at 3000rpm.
If you want to fast cruise do the trim max +5. Do not pass +5, when you push to up button of trim it would go to beach +6 +7 but DON'T exceed +5 even if you need.
To raise the stern drive to beach range and lift range(trailer mode called in mercruiser) you have to push the red button and simultaneously up button togehter in below picture. Your trim gauge must end at 42 degree and then only red light flashes 42 disappears. If you don't have the button like below picture and have the button on the throtle lever you should force the trim up button to reach to beach range and then finally to lift range.
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/melida315/volvo penta C4 prop set/trim.jpg
Hope this gives some idea of planning and setting the correct rpm,drive and tabs.
Best regards
Melida

 

Hi Melida,

Thanks for that impressive post. It looks like you have done a lot of research into your repower.:smt024 I wish you all the best with it and hope you find a new owner for the KAD300 and DP-G.:smt001.

I don't seem to have that instrument you showed in your attached picture. There is probably some subtle trick to raising the leg to trailer position on my boat.


Regards

Terry

 

Terry,
Thanks for the good wishes. I'm gonna settle the repower before next year's spring recommisioning.
If you don't have the button set in the picture of previous post you should have the trim button on the throttle lever in the below picture, or search the owners/operators manual of the engine.
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/melida315/volvo%20penta%20C4%20prop%20set/20160.jpg
What about your trim gauge. Is it custom analog Searay or digital Volvo Penta in the below picture, also I have it you can see in the next picture lower row.
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/melida315/volvo penta C4 prop set/768.jpg
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/melida315/volvo penta C4 prop set/30062010961.jpg
Best regards.
Melida