Yes, You need to run at least anti-freeze through the engine.

 

If it doesn't start, use great caution when filling with anti-freeze. Without the exhaust pushing water out you can possibly fill exhaust and then start to cause reversion and fill cylinders with water.

 

I did this and it is very costly... I recommend you pay to get it running and have them winterize it, and guarantee their work.

 

Yep. You need to winterize it. You also need to hire a mechanic who knows what he is doing to start it. Once it is running, change the plugs, the oil, the impeller and have him winterize it properly so you will be able to enjoy it next year. Learn how this done, by helping out with holding work lights, handing him tools, parts, etc. so he does not have to get into and out of the bilge more than once. Next year you can do it yourself.

 

Assuming it turns over, you should be able to suck up a gallon of antifreeze by attempting to start it which will pull the antifreeze through the system. It will take multiple start attempts. Take it slow which adequate time between start cycles. The risk of back feeding antifreeze into the cylinders is no different when supplying it antifreeze, as it is with raw water.

 

It probably has fresh water cooling. If it has a radiator cap, it indeed has fresh water cooling. If it’s the same as mine, you can drain the muffler by removing a small bolt near the bottom of the muffler. There’s a plug (9/16” hex) on a small round housing that you can remove to drain the heat exchanger. It’ll have an anode attached.

Then as others have indicated, crank it while introducing propylene glycol into the suction side. What I do is drain the intake filter, shut off the through-hull, and pour the pink into the open filter while starting the genset.

 

What do you bet he screws it up trying to figure it on his own having never done one?

 

I'm with @sbw1 on this. Hire a mechanic. Get it running then pay him to have it winterized.

Screw up and it'll crack, becoming a very large paperweight. If it needs replacement, the engine most likely will need to come out. So your most likely talking $500ish now or roughly $10,000 later.

 

@Seapig: I wasn't aware of the bolt at bottom of muffler, good tip. I'll have to look on mine to see if I have that. Do you drain that before or after antifreeze?

 

I drain all water from everything (including the muffler) and then introduce the antifreeze.

 

+1 on sbw1 and firecadet613. This needs to be done properly as not to cause a larger (and more expensive problem). Do something improperly and you will have a much bigger problem. What was the error? Also - did it run fine when you had the survey done when you bought it? The not starting is most likely something simple. Hire a tech and ask questions as to what he/she is doing. Ask them some troubleshooting techniques while they are there and you will then have a functioning genny and gain some knowledge. Check with some fellow boaters and get some tech recommendations.

 

It did not run at the survey. The seller gave a $$ concession for troubleshooting at closing. I tried to start back in June and got an error. It did crank a few rotations and then throw an error I cant recall. I think the fuel module has corroded away, I remember researching and it wasnt pretty, that was back in June and a few bottles of Jameson ago. Like I said, I had other issues to contend with and it fell off the radar.
I think if I drain it and feed the strainer with AF while cranking it may work out. After all its not rocket surgery. My boat is on the hard so running things that need water is a little involved/ different.

 

It did not run at the survey. The seller gave a $$ concession for troubleshooting at closing. I tried to start back in June and got an error. It did crank a few rotations and then throw an error I cant recall. I think the fuel module has corroded away, I remember researching and it wasnt pretty, that was back in June and a few bottles of Jameson ago. Like I said, I had other issues to contend with and it fell off the radar.
I think if I drain it and feed the strainer with AF while cranking it may work out. After all its not rocket surgery. My boat is on the hard so running things that need water is a little involved/ different.

I think you’ll be fine with that plan. Mine had been resting for a month when I pulled the drain on the heat exchanger and it was dry. The only Lake water was in the muffler. If you drain the muffler and get a coupla quarts through the raw water supply, you’ll be fine.

 

Understood, best of luck.

 

Thats what I think. Getting it in will be the challenge. Worst case I leave it dry.

 

Yep, shop vac any remaining water out and you'll be OK