Absolutely bring it back to have it fixed!

 

A weak battery can cause this

 

Well it can be right actually. The Garmin could be shutting itself off due to low voltage. Low voltage caused by the engine starting. As long as it turns back on when you push the power button then your ok.

A couple of ways around this would be to start the engine first then turn on the Garmin. The other would be to put in a house battery that powers your electronics.

I don't believe there is anything wrong with your Garmin.

 

I Agree! My Garmin system always shut itself down when I started the engine associated with the battery bank it was connected to. I never had weak batteries on my boat because I was in the habit of buying new batteries every other year, port bank new one year, and starboard bank new the next, and it did it with the new batteries too.

 

battery issue... I had the same problem, and new battery fix it...

 

I have to concur with Skybolt The voltage drops from the load the starter puts on the battery and the Garmin shuts down automatically when the voltage reaches a specific level. I am sure you can look thru the Garmin manual and it will tell exactly at what voltage the unit will automatically power down.

 

All newer Garmin units run on 9-32 volts, it may be a bad battery or they wired it to a power source that doesn't supply voltage when the ignition is in the start position or has a drop of below 9 volts dc.

Does your boat boat have an accessory switch? Which switch is it wired to?

 

That's what I was thinking. Hook it up direct to a battery then try to start the engine. If it doesn't go off it's on a switched power that cuts out when starting.

 

Install a dedicated house battery

 

I had that issue with my Raymarine C80 and radar. My house / port engine bank is 6v golf cart batteries, which have great capacity, but less cranking power/voltage. But the main problem was that the power feed wire was too low gauge and the voltage drop too significant when starting. I just upgraded the gauge of the power feed wire and the problem was fixed, even with the golf cart deep cycle bank.

 

You can replace the battery and that might fix your problem for a period of time, but to do things right, you should have a dedicated "House" battery that is separate from your engines. One of the biggest reasons for that is, if you drain the house battery below 12v your engine(s) will still start. Your electronics can run perfectly fine if the voltage drops below 12v (not much below - a few tenths), but your engine(s) will not start. Or buy an over size battery every other year or so ...

 

I don't have any dedicated battery. One thing I was told NOT to start with any radios, gps or anything on. Start up then turn your radios on.

 

Adding a house battery will fix this common problem. It is an easy upgrade and may help to keep you from getting stranded someday with a dead engine battery. You'll need this Kit - https://www.boemarine.com/products/blue-sea-7649-mini-add-a-battery

and a 2nd battery. Very easy project.

 

New batteries or old batteries my Raymarine always shuts down @ engine start up.... I just start engines before RM.

 

+ 1

 

The starting demand of your engine requires lots of current. More current, less voltage.

Simple solution, turn on all electronics *after* starting engines successfully!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

https://www.amazon.com/VM-Audio-SRC...ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404747854&sr=1-5&keywords=farad+capacitor
what about something like this?

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I'm interested.

Are you using this setup?

As I understand the current setup, the factory wiring has the stereo and all electronics wired through the ACCESSORY dash mounted Contura switch.

I plan on separating these and will move the sound system to one battery bank and the electronics to the other.

Another big amperage draw is the windlass.

Plan on running some heavy duty wiring directly from the battery banks through Blue Seas flip breakers first.

This should be more than adequate to cover these loads, then the 7.5 amp fuses (or whatever) for the MFD's, maybe a light breaker as well.

These CAT starters draw a lot of amps, and otherwise, without a dedicated house battery, no easy solution. Maybe run a pair of heavy wires to the genset battery???

BEST !

RWS

Any more tips on this would be appreciated.

 

I’m not running this yet. I’ve been wanting to pose this question to people smarter than me for a while. There’s a good chance those people are here.

 

Not sure I am one of those people but I will try and support your response anyway. I have a similar problem but with my digital engine converters (ActiSense EMU-1). I have to start the engines with the parallel switch engaged or the EMU-1 for that engine does not reset correctly and is locked up. It's not a battery issue just a current issue. My starters draw quite a bit of instantaneous current when starting the engines. I have a 1fd cap I use with my power amp and tried it for the EMU and it worked nicely. The issue is they are quite large, bigger then a 16oz. water bottle and finding an appropriate mounting place can be challenging.

I am planning on ordering two cheap-o's for this purpose. The quality of the cap's filtering capability isn't needed here and only it's charged capacity is.

Edit: Embedded link kept going to ebay and not amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OYFVREA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

This problem is easily solved with the addition of a Bosch 30amp relay. During cranking the voltage drop is too great causing the unit to power down. Rather than the switch turning on the unit directly, use the switch to turn on the relay coil and wire unit directly to the load side of the unit. Cost is a couple bucks and a few minutes to wire it up.

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I'd love to see the wiring diagram for this.

Another possible alternative that I just thought of would be to wire the supply side of the electronics to a toggle that could select to source the supply from one battery or the other battery or BOTH batteries. However without a diode setup this could this possibly cause problems between the battery banks??

I like the idea of the Bosch relay. My understanding is that it would then automatically switch the source from one battery bank to the other instantly when the starter is engaged.

Is this assumption correct?

BEST !

RWS

 

No. Currently there is a toggle or accessory switch that turns on the Garmin unit, correct? Rather than using the switch directly to 12V to power the unit, use the switch to power a relay.

Here -

86 - comes from the accessory switch
87 - 12v+ to Garmin. Garmin also gets grounded.
85 - Ground
30 - 12v+ direct from battery or main buss bar

 

No. Currently there is a toggle or accessory switch that turns on the Garmin unit, correct? Rather than using the switch directly to 12V to power the unit, use the switch to power a relay.

Here -

86 - comes from the accessory switch
87 - 12v+ to Garmin. Garmin also gets grounded.
85 - Ground
30 - 12v+ direct from battery or main buss bar

View attachment 128189

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

So in this instance the relay is allowing for a direct connection to the source (battery) with no voltage/amperage/resistance loss through the switch - correct?

 

Yes, minimal voltage drop through the relay. Most importantly minimizing voltage drop during cranking which is where your problem lies.

 

Could you explain specifically how this solves the problem? Currently the voltage at the Garmin is dropping below its turn on threshold, by the starter draw. A poster here said the Garmin turn on is in the 9 volt area. With the relay, the voltage drop is moved to the trigger input. But the trigger turn on for those relays is in the 9.5v volt area. So it may not turn on either. Has he measured the voltage at the battery itself during starter cranking? Isn’t it where the voltage drop actually occurs? So would the new direct feed to the Garmin also see the same voltage drop it?

I just don’t understand how this fixes it and would like to get educated better so I understand.

 

I installed a small sealed battery under the helm wired in parallel, then wired in a normally closed solenoid to disconnect it from the main batteries. I start all my electronics then when I'm ready to start the engines, I hit the switch disconnecting all the electronics from the main batteries, start the engines, then switch back. This also provides emergency battery power for radio/electronics if there is a problem with the main batteries.

 

My Raymarine MFD has always done this. It did it before and after I replaced all of the batteries. I have a couple other things on the same 12v helm circuit like the USB power to the Tablet I use for VV Mobile and my Sirius XM player and it does not affect those -- just the Raymarine. As a result I fire it up after the engines are running so I don't have to start it up twice.

 

Would this solve the problem:

let's assume electronics normally run off port battery

Wire the solenoid in so it is energized when port battery starter is engaged

Wire the solenoid so it feeds the electronics from the starboard battery during the time the port engine is cranking.

Would this be a simple fix?

BEST !

RWS

 

The capacitor by itself will not work to keep the MFD from sitting down. It will simply discharge back to the starter when the voltage drops. You can make it work by putting a diode inline prior to the capacitor

source->diode->capacitor

 

edit: I should have said it may work. The capacitor will discharge very quickly, so if it takes a while for the engine to start, it may not be able to keep up.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED !

In this case I'm running Raymarine Axiom radar, sonar, three screens and an autopilot.

The combined total is a good deal of amperage.

My solution was very simple - a direct run of heavy gauge duplex wire directly to the battery and ground strip.

I set up two of these: one for the electronics, and one for the 2 FUSION head units, JL amplifiers and subs. (60 amp circuit breaker)

Each of these is run off of separate battery banks and each has it's own, dedicated heavy duty circuit breaker mounted on the engine room bulkhead. (I need to add photos of the completed install)

I ran a long, LONG run of 10 gauge from the engine room all the way forward to the entertainment center for the stereo & amp, split off of that and ran a second pair to the helm for the cockpit stereo & amp.

The wire runs for the electronics at the helm and to the autopilot were shorter, the deplex wire to the autopilot motor were longer - I used 12 gauge for those runs and 10 for the autopilot motor.

The results were outstanding.

Crank the motors over and no electronic components drop out.

VHF still attached to factory wiring - it does drop out but when I re do the dash panels I'll move that to the electronics side.

A few photos (taken before completion) follow.

Will add more this weekend.

Reliable, simple and foolproof.

There is however, a significant cost to the wiring.

BEST !

RWS

in-process uncompleted photos attached - I'll get these updated this weekend.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED !

In this case I'm running Raymarine Axiom radar, sonar, three screens and an autopilot.

The combined total is a good deal of amperage.

My solution was very simple - a direct run of heavy gauge duplex wire directly to the battery and ground strip.

I set up two of these: one for the electronics, and one for the 2 FUSION head units, JL amplifiers and subs. (60 amp circuit breaker)

Each of these is run off of separate battery banks and each has it's own, dedicated heavy duty circuit breaker mounted on the engine room bulkhead. (I need to add photos of the completed install)

I ran a long, LONG run of 10 gauge from the engine room all the way forward to the entertainment center for the stereo & amp, split off of that and ran a second pair to the helm for the cockpit stereo & amp.

The wire runs for the electronics at the helm and to the autopilot were shorter, the deplex wire to the autopilot motor were longer - I used 12 gauge for those runs and 10 for the autopilot motor.

The results were outstanding.

Crank the motors over and no electronic components drop out.

VHF still attached to factory wiring - it does drop out but when I re do the dash panels I'll move that to the electronics side.

A few photos (taken before completion) follow.

Will add more this weekend.

Reliable, simple and foolproof.

There is however, a significant cost to the wiring.

BEST !

RWS

in-process uncompleted photos attached - I'll get these updated this weekend.

View attachment 134344

View attachment 134346

Or just turn them on after the engines have started, which is what I do...

 

Or just turn them on after the engines have started, which is what I do...

I’m with Bill collector! There is no cost and no work involved with turning on electronics after engines are running. I have always done that.
What is the advantage in having them on before start up? You don’t use them until the boats moving anyway.

 

Route planning, and to be sure all are working correctly