Not sure about the leaky rudder post, you should just be able to tighten, just do not over tighten. I totally agree about the 310 engine compartment, very very cramped. There may be a backing nut that you have to loosen first? Good luck.

 

It is not uncommon that you may have to remove other parts of the engine or other equipment in the bilge area to gain access to your rudder seals. Face it, boat bildges can be inherantly compact. Nevertheless, once you gain access to the cover bolt you can try to tighten the bolt a fraction and then see if you continure to get water seepage. If the leak is not great, and there is no threat of major water entering the boat bildge, then be sure once you tighten, to move yoru rudders 80-90 percent port and starboard. Then check for leaks again. Tightening should be done slightly ay 1/12 to 1/8 turn each try. The packing in the seal works best when swollen, if you over tighten, then you can limit is absorbancy. (these seals work just like the plubing valve seals on spigots) Be patient, most mechanics eve n think that tightening them hard will guarantee no leaks and that is not so. In the end if you cannot get the water to stop seeping, then you may need to repack the shaft seal. With the boat out of water, you can then loosen the entire upper bolt housing and repack with new welting hemp. Some mechanics will use plubers grease on the underside of the seal cap to further help seal out water. If I can locate the instructions, I will forward them to you. Att-Ameritool or SeaChoice may have information on this type of maintenacne. view: tidesmarine.com Best to you.

 

Thanks Jeff. You have the same boat so you know of all those fun little tasks in the bilge,like the a/c strainer!! lots of fun. You mentioned a backing nut and on my latest plunge into the abyss, I did notice there are two. I guess the idea is to loosen the backing nut and then tighten the lower nut and then the backing nut again. I am on Lake Conroe and dripping of fresh water into the bilge is certainly nothing to get into a twist over ,but considering the 310's layout ,I am about to!! The bilge is completely dry other than this. The thought of removing the exhaust collectors and tubing and other stuff so that I can get sufficient purchase is my concern.It could turn into a huge undertaking. The main problem is big tools in a little space!! and maybe some broken ribs!! Thanks for the imput.

 

Thanks, I am not sure what I am to try and turn. The two large nuts? I have always heard that just tight enough is the rule when it comes to packing. The dripping is steady but not a danger ,more a nuisance .

 

The lower nut is a jam nut- you were correct earlier- loosen (turn CW) the jam nut slightly so it no longer contacts the packing nut. Then tighten (turn CW) the packing nut until the seepage stops. Take a rag or paper towel to dry it off after you think you've tightened it enough and dry it completely, wait a bit and check it again to be sure it's dry , then tighten the jam nut back up onto the packing nut.

Since it's an '01 boat it is unlikely that the packing would need to be replaced yet, rudder packing wears very slowly. However, if tightening does not stop the leak you will need to haul and re-pack the rudders.

 

The image posted by chollyjohn appears to show both green bonding wires broken.

If so, when repairing the wires cut back to an area free of corrosion, or replace the wire w/ new. It's common for the corrosion to travel within the wire, as it wicks between the conductor and insulation w/ capillary action.

Don't crimp on corroded wires.

 

Thank you wingless for pointing that out. Bravo!, that you are observant and to all...the bonding wires have been corrected this past summer, the bronze was cleaned and the rudder seals were serviced. The purpose of my picture was to reference the rudder seal assembly. I apologize for not having an "after" picture. Since the topic changed to proper bonding wires, in order to clean the wires, that in this case are 10+ years old, I cut back the insulation sufficient length for the new crimp connector. For good contact, you should use a brass (soft metal) wire brush to polish the contact surfaces of the stranded wire and if you can use an ohm meter to verify the wire can handle the requirment for a proper bonding. Alcoa makes a non-corrosion and preventative contact paste that I dip my connection in prior to crimping. That tip came from a worthy boater and ex-DuPont employee electrician. Happy Boating!!!

 

Thanks for the directions. The last time I shoehorned my two hundred thirty pounds down into that position ,I was trying to turn the top nut clockwise to stop the seepage. I guess this was the wrong direction? So the proper way is to loosen both nuts to compress the packing? Sorry for my confusion.

 

nevermind , I think I have it now. The jamb nut must turn clockwise to take strain off the packing nut and then the packing nut has room for movement. I guess it must have been the blood rushing to my head and all! That also explains why I couldn,t move the packing nut!Duh! Thanks.

 

If you have to repack, may I suggest this stuff..
http://e-marine-inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html

It is a truly amazing product that really is "fix it and forget it." I used this on my shaft logs three years ago and havent had to do a thing since. Not sure if Jim sells this stuff but dont waste your time with wax rope packing.

I have the same problem with my rudder posts and will take a stab at repacking before spring launch.

 

This is the Algonac rudder shaft seal.

 

Thanks ,I will try to tighten and see what happens first ,if I can't fix it that way I will re-pack. I had a custom trailer built for the boat so hauling it out is not a big deal.