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I took mine to a welding shop. The put it in a vice and bingo, it came back straightened. I'm not sure how they did it, but it worked.
 
Last season I tried pulling (not gas docks. The current caught me and just barely caught a cement piling. It bent my anchor and windlass. A mechanic friend used his shop press and straightened it right out. I com-along straightened the windlass. My anchor looked almost exactly like yours. It’s straight as an arrow now
 
My experience has been in this litigious society we live in now few places are willing to risk liability on a job they do not know.

MM
It's not like they're being asked to design and build an anchor.
 
It's not like they're being asked to design and build an anchor.
First off, it is a fact bending and re-bending back to the original position stresses the metal affecting its strength, how much I do not know, neither will a metal fab shop. Second, bending and re-bending likely will damage the finish if it is not already. Risk management will not allow many shops to undertake that which they do not know. Now Frick and Frack will do anything for $100 and have nothing to lose if it fails and they get sued.

An anchor is a piece of significant safety equipment...

MM
 
I’d straighten it too.

The force that bent it is different than that which it will be exposed to in use. Totally opposite in fact.

If it were to show signs of developing a bend in the future you can say that you tried and relegate it to second anchor duty.

The impulse to just throw things away for no good reason is a big contributor to the hole in the water theory.
 
I'm just curious if anyone has had an anchor of that style "break" on them?

This is a minor bend on the shank (as another posted suggest....probably from a piling). Just about anyone with a hydraulic press could straighten it in 10 minutes without compromising it. That shank is 1/2" thick steel plate. You don't want to heat it just press it. Most decent auto repair shops, welding shops and machine shops have a 20 ton press laying around for axle bearing work.

If you want to spend the money on a new one....it's your money.:)
 
First off, it is a fact bending and re-bending back to the original position stresses the metal affecting its strength, how much I do not know, neither will a metal fab shop. Second, bending and re-bending likely will damage the finish if it is not already. Risk management will not allow many shops to undertake that which they do not know. Now Frick and Frack will do anything for $100 and have nothing to lose if it fails and they get sued.

An anchor is a piece of significant safety equipment...

MM
Incidental in a slight yield like this. These anchors are made from mild steel so a straightening as long as there are no sharp bends that crack the grain is acceptable. A hydraulic press with controlled force to bend it back; local automotive shop..... In a bend like shown in the picture some insignificant loss of tensile strength of the material but should be of no concern. Beating on it with a hammer will damage the galvanizing and probably do more damage than good.
 
I would definitely straighten it out, I have a 40 ton press in my machine shop and that would be about a 10 minute job. Properly set up, I'm confident no damage would be done to the galvanized coating, Even if there was a little scuffing on the galvanized, I would just spray it with the cold galvanized mentioned above. IMHO, its an easy fix.
 
I am curious now after following this thread if I should have tried to have mine straightened because all the local opinions I got including the surveyor I used said I should replace the anchor. If you said the OP should straighten his, would you have recommended the same for mine? It is a 60lb stainless kodiak. The shank was bent as well as the right plow ear. The new one was $2100 so that hurt a bit to buy.

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I am curious now after following this thread if I should have tried to have mine straightened because all the local opinions I got including the surveyor I used said I should replace the anchor. If you said the OP should straighten his, would you have recommended the same for mine? It is a 60lb stainless kodiak. The shank was bent as well as the right plow ear. The new one was $2100 so that hurt a bit to buy.

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Jeremy - SST is a malleable material and can be yielded (bent) multiple times without loss of mechanical properties. Bend it back and make it look good; you'll be OK.
 
Jeremy - SST is a malleable material and can be yielded (bent) multiple times without loss of mechanical properties. Bend it back and make it look good; you'll be OK.
I guess I should have checked in here before buying another anchor. Everyone I spoke with about it (surveyor and local metal shops) said it would lose some strength and should be replaced if it was going to be relied on as primary anchor.
 
Not that it has never happened, but in a lot of years of boating I have never heard of an anchor breaking. Rode, schackle, bridal, snubber, even cleats, but never the anchor itself. If it doesn't break while you are bending it back into shape then it probably isn't. If any of you guys are anchoring in conditions that come even close to breaking anything, I don't want to be with you!
 
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