When I purchased my boat (03 weekender) the PO told me the way to flush it was just putting the hose running through the rear compartment area where the hose attachment is (3rd pic) and then turn the engine on switch the lever in the picture to the bottom. Anyone have any insight or information as to if this is correct and what system this is ? He also did not mention Enron about flushing the out drive (bravo 3) separately. Does the out drive need a separate flushing somewhere else? Another thing to mention, he said it’s ok to turn the engine on for a minute or two without having the hose connected. He said in that time the engine won’t over heat. To add to everything, I’m pretty sure the temperature gauge on the dash is broken because it won’t go past 120. Any info or clarification is much appreciated.
correct flushing technique ?
Ron1204
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Looking at the picture it shows a water pick up for the engine at the thru hull. This means the cooling water does not come thru the drive and your flush connection that's in the trunk is probably plumbed in to the pick up side of the sea water pump. All you have to do is follow the hoses to verify. The previous owner explained that you have to close the seacock when flushing thru the flush connection. The most important thing when flushing this way is not to open the faucet full blast as you might fill the system with too much water. Muffs are not going to work if the water is being picked up thru the seacock!
ok. So basically this plumbing and the way I’m flushing could be correct? As I mentioned before, if the previous owner used this method every time, there’s no way the engine would have lasted much time right? On top of that, I have used this method a few times already. Since my dam temp gauge doesn’t work, I can’t even check the temperature but I’m guessing that something would have happened if the engine isn’t getting cooled.
Another question, if this method is correct like I pray, does that mean the drive is also getting flushed as well?
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I'm going to say no your drive is not getting flushed this way but the water running over the drive while you have the engine running is rinsing whatever it touches. You have to raise the drive enough to look at the water hose that runs to the transom assembly, if it's connected then you have a dual water pickup, if it's not connected then all the water comes thru the seacock or the flush fitting in the trunk. Follow the hoses and your questions will be answered. As for your temperature gauge reading it could be correct if your thermostat is stuck open. When was the thermostat changed last? IR guns are cheap and an easy way to verify temperatures. I wouldn't worry so much about flushing the drive but definitely clarify the hoses on your raw water seacock and flush out fitting.
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These are some pics I took right now. Looks like the hose connection from the trunk goes to that pump thing. From there it goes two different ways. One to that lever and the other to the bottom side of the engine.
I actually still see some water inside that middle pump.
I actually still see some water inside that middle pump.
Attachments
So I just thought about this. PO said close (to the side) the lever to flush and open (raise) it when I’m going on the water. Using this idea, can I not just use the muffs and open the lever and it will flush normally ?
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First no muffs for you my friend! Your boat picks up the cooling water thru the thru hull seacock. Good news is the Perko fitting in your pictures automatically shuts off the water supply from the thru hull no need to close anything. In the picture the green POS garden hose need to be replaced because it has collapsed. When you want to flush your engine it doesn't matter if you're on land or in the water just connect to the fitting in the trunk turn on the water supply half way and start the engine. There's no need to rev up just let it idle. The only caution is not to open the water supply full because you could over fill the cooling system on your engine. The raw water pump will pull what it needs to cool the engine.
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Quick note is Bravo drives are better cooled with thru hull fittings vs. pulling the water through the drive.
Ok so that’s some very good news! I was getting very concerned. Last question about this topic, I think; you said closing or opening the lever does nothing ? When I get on the water should I still move the lever to the top? Does that make the engine and drive get cooled by the drive or do I leave it just like it is? Sorry for all the rookie questions man. Trying to get this down packed so it doesn’t cost me an arm and a leg fixing it after.
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When you’re underway or running at the dock, the seacock must be open so cooling water can enter. Forget that and you’ll never do it again.
Don’t take this the wrong way, but it’s in your best interest to have at least basic knowledge of your vessel’s operation and systems before you even leave the dock.
Get a service manual now.
Don’t take this the wrong way, but it’s in your best interest to have at least basic knowledge of your vessel’s operation and systems before you even leave the dock.
Get a service manual now.
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No need to panic, a whole bunch of boats are piped this way ( including mine when I bought it). The OEM bravo piping through the leg is a weakness in the design. It has a 3/4” tube which tends to get constricted due to “bravoitis”. Rather than an expensive repair, many folks put 1 1/4” thru Hull engine intakes and bypass the drive pickup. This makes the engine run cooler because the intake pipe size matches the seawater pump intake 1 1/4”.
That’s great to hear man. Huge relief . Now just have to take care of that possible impeller issue and the temp gauge not working. Going to check it out now. Will possibly make a new thread on it if I don’t find a solution .
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Piping in this way creates an issue of how to flush the engine when in salt. Some folks install a garden hose flush connector because it is easier than putting the muffs on the drive when in the water. The problem is that the transom flush needs to be kept tight so that you don’t draw in air. Think how your straw doesn’t work when you have a hole in it. The other issue is that you have to remember to open the seacock so that you don’t overheat the engine. The impeller will survive if you shut it down once the engine overheat alarm goes off, but you do have to replace the flapper valves that melt.
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I repiped mine so that I have dual pickups, from the leg and the thru Hull. Merc recommended that I not have more than 2 intakes, so I decommissioned the flush in favor of the leg. Also, my mechanic likes the muffs much better because you can’t tell the health of the impeller when connected to the hose. This arrangement has also saved me on a day that I forgot to open the seacock
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