Looks pretty good for an 89'. I think you're on the right track. I would also be concerned with the fuel condition since it's been sitting for 8 years. Also look at the oil for water intrusion.

Some reading for you:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/268da-and-weekenders.24866/

Best of luck and welcome to CSR!

 

Thanks to you both for speedy replies. Let me give some more details that I probably should have included initially.

• Seller claims paperwork says boat was last on water 2010
  
• Seller says engine was fogged and winterized (I have no idea when)
  • claims engine has compression, turns over, and builds oil pressure but that he hasn't started it since owning.
• States the same about fuel tank, drained and dry (will try and confirm)
• Reason for selling: seller claims he bought boat in order to explore cruising ICW with his SO. If all went well, they were going to upgrade to something bigger for more travel. Something health related came up and has apparently stopped those plans. He sold the boat to a fishing company (out of state) in 2019 but that CV19 disrupted their plans. They're now having him resell it on their behalf.
  • How accurate is this? Who knows.
  • Point is - no one currently involved has seen the boat on water.

Thank you! I went through most that thread last night, super insightful. I was considering posting this over there but wasn't sure if appropriate. Club Sea Ray has some beautiful vessels on here... been lurking.

Lots of folks here should be able to give feedback on the outdrive. I'd guess it's marginally DIY-easy? That lower unit is a beast to remove and work on. Single-handed will require some planing and skill.

I wonder if that's moisture damage in the master state room, port side all the way forward on the ceiling? Walk the deck. If it's soft and spongy it's got some rot.

She'll need some bottom paint and batteries I'd guess.

I'd want to hear the motor run. I'd also want to know exactly where the oil is coming from. I assume the current owner is hesitant to put the boat in the water with leaking bellows? Could make a proper sea trail challenging...

I should be able to procure extra hands without issue, might need beer.

I see the stain you're talking about. I also noticed what could be some damage around the port window in the other picture, wondering if it could be related. I will check into this when I look at it in person. I think if it's rotted, I should walk away. I'm already planning to do the bottom paint, thanks for helping re-affirm. Worried about how much prepping prior to paint will be needed.

Plan is to inspect engine as much as possible (I hear you on narrowing down oil leak exactly, will be doing that)... because of asking price though, if engine is winterized, I doubt he will want to prep and fire it up for me. Same deal with the sea trial. Likely, if I buy, I will be hauling it off his property and onto blocks either at my house or at the marina. Planning on doing repairs at that time.

With all of that said, I feel as if this is a double edged sword

• the asking price is either indicative of potentially critical albeit non-apparent issues
• or it's the result of a series of unfortunate events and this is a solid opportunity.

While my SO and I prefer something turn key, purchasing a boat wasn't in our immediate plans and this fell in our lap. If this is a good opportunity - why not??

 

Lots of folks here should be able to give feedback on the outdrive. I'd guess it's marginally DIY-easy? That lower unit is a beast to remove and work on. Single-handed will require some planing and skill.

I wonder if that's moisture damage in the master state room, port side all the way forward on the ceiling? Walk the deck. If it's soft and spongy it's got some rot.

She'll need some bottom paint and batteries I'd guess.

I'd want to hear the motor run. I'd also want to know exactly where the oil is coming from. I assume the current owner is hesitant to put the boat in the water with leaking bellows? Could make a proper sea trail challenging...

 

Asking price?
Not factory tower, probably why glass cracked at mounts.
What small river? I see it’s an MD boat, probably Bay used.
Nice AC.
You are not going to want to trailer this boat, it’s big, get a slip, hence the small river question.
Cockpit vinyl looks good from what I can see.
Had 2 268’s. ‘87 & ‘89.

 

Asking price?
Not factory tower, probably why glass cracked at mounts.
What small river? I see it’s an MD boat, probably Bay used.
Nice AC.
You are not going to want to trailer this boat, it’s big, get a slip, hence the small river question.
Cockpit vinyl looks good from what I can see.
Had 2 268’s. ‘87 & ‘89.

Asking: $3000
Plan to try and buy for $2000-2500. I have a feeling seller will negotiate since the boat is on his property and the people he's selling it for are out of state, for all I know he never signed over the title.

James River. I'm out of Richmond.

Not talking about the AC til I see it working.

Agreed on trailering, I don't have the right hauler anyway. There are a few marinas local to Richmond that I planned on doing blocks for repairs and then keeping it in the slip.

 

PS. If you get it don’t be in hurry to get it wet. Take summer to get it in 100% shape, then next year you will have a boat you can take out with confidence.

 

PSS. Good you have wrench skills, will need it, main difference in boats is everything is bigger, heavier, and crammed in tighter spaces, than cars, trucks, mc, etc.

 

3k is good, avg price is $12 - $16

 

As Stee said, don’t rebuild your own outdrive, get a rebuilt or pay to have it done. Look, that thing is submerged 24/7. Any water intrusion will destroy it. The least little O-ring not seated properly will turn it into a grenade. Let the pros do it.

 

#1 - I would make absolutely sure the transom and stringers are not rotted - that is fatal for this boat - The transom and stringers are made of wood, surrounded by fiberglass - water gets in where the outdrive cutout is, or where any holes are drilled - if the wood rots (very common) the structural integrity of the boat goes away.......also check the foredeck for soft spots around the hatches, anchor chute, etc - MANY of these boats are wet and not worth the time/money to fix

 

Agree, I heard stories about this. Maybe that’s why it was SeaRay biggest selling model 87 - 89 and hardly any available today.

 

Ok. Spend a few dollars ($175) and get a GRP33plus from here. http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/

Check the transom and deck good for moisture. If the meter pegs, you have a problem. It's a relative reading, so find a dry spot and work from there. Confirm the wet areas with a small hammer sounding for voids. If the transom is wet, you have an eventual safety problem -- eventually you're outdrive will "pull" the transom off. Check the stringers too. You'll probably see some movement in the meter which is normal. But anything excessive, then you have to check your sanity. It's a big fix.

The mechanical stuff is an easier fix. Figure dry seals in the outdrive, engine may need some work depending how good it was stored. Fuel tank probably has water in it from several seasons of condensation, so don't just dump gas in there. Clean it up first.

Remember, the only thing that works on an old boat is the the owner. Good luck.

 

Oil leak port side, that’s where the hoses run to the remote oil filter, maybe simple. We hope. Could be a spill from taking off the filter. Least of your issues. Get the AC working first. All else is minor. Wife just told me tell you that!

 

Just received more pics, although not as many as I asked for... Low price is revealing itself, but I was anticipating some of this...

I want to talk about this first picture primarily. Note the tower mount, it's caved the entire mount into the fiberglass.

• Is the caved in mount a sign that perhaps things are soft and soggy?
  Seems one thing for the mount to break, but to cave in like that? What do you think Pirate Lady?
  
  
• Hull - am I looking at multiple layers of bottom paint? or/and some corrosion?
  
  
• Panels - they look ROUGH.. but should be replaceable. Cosmetics are cosmetics... as long as this isn't a sign of serious issues in more critical areas.

 

Hold on gotta pee

 

Meant to add, probably will be viewing on Friday. Can get exactly pictures I want then. Also have gonna plan out how to use the FLIR MR40.

 

Arch - I would remove. Original arch had extra wood and aluminum plates to support it. Doubt this has it. Ditch arch, use West fiberglass product to patch.
Those are not original seats. Was a bench.
Side vinyl- small potatos. Check with local boat upholstery shop about fix.
Bottom paint- he prolly used a hard paint like Interlux that builds up instead of Woolsey ablative that sloughs off. Ya sand it off, then use Wolsey.
You mention cave in. Sorry can’t see from pics what you mean.

 

Bottom paint- he prolly used a hard paint like Interlux that builds up instead of Woolsey ablative that sloughs off. Ya sand it off, then use Wolsey.
You mention cave in. Sorry can’t see from pics what you mean.

Sorry, I guess what I mean is... it looks like the entire mounting bracket punched through the fiberglass. Makes me wonder if that's a sign of bad glass integrity.

Bottom paint - makes me feel better about that being history of layers instead of corroded build up or pitting.

Excited to see boat in person. Pictures are not fun to interpret.

 

Can’t find pic of 268 seats but these my 250 close.

 

The seats, he prolly trashed the original bench instead of re upholstery. Cheaper way to go. Not first time seen that. Hey, if you can live with it, all good. Restoring the original bench can be very expensive.

 

I have a pic of original arch on my 89 268 but in BMP format, won’t upload, search the net.

 

Not worried about the seats right now. He mentioned the chairs were put in by the folks he's reselling for. My father has 30+ years carpentry experience and he's does car restorations now, we could probably come up with something. I'm most concerned about the vital parts of the vessel. Can always make it pretty later on.

Just wanted to say, I appreciate your willingness to talk this over. Very helpful for me.

 

Tell me that outdrive isn't completely toast... gotta be, no? Looks like serious pitting going on, even beyond skeg. Wondering the worth of sourcing another outdrive. Is it normal to strap it up like that?

 

Pirate Lady - does '89 268 have Alpha 1 outdrive or Bravo 1? I'm having difficulty finding this info.

Plenty of used Alpha 1's on eBay...

 

Pirate Lady - does '89 268 have Alpha 1 outdrive or Bravo 1? I'm having difficulty finding this info.
Plenty of used Alpha 1's on eBay...

short answer 89 - Bravo 1.
long answer the 87 came mostly with 5.7 and alpha 1. underpowered, hard to stay on plane with people and gear aboard. By 89 most if not all came with 7.4 and Bravo 1.
Strap holding up outdrive - could be a safety strap from he was towing it to be put on blocks; probably nothing.
Hard to tell from picture if the outdrive is badly pitted or those are just barnacle scars.

 

Looks like a good project, I love the look of those old boats.

Anyone else wondering what is up with the tin foil?

 

It's a project for sure. I'd keep the SS arch -- just remount. It looks like they didn't use proper backing plates and it cracked in the fiberglass side. Everything is fixable, it's just a matter of how much time and money you have. Focus on the bones -- stringers, transom, and deck. Major problems there, it's a walk away. If it's sound, could be a decent project.

 

Another good shot of stern and outboard. Keep getting sporadic emails from the seller

I'm reading about treatment options for barnacle residue such as muriatic acid and other chemicals, scrubbing down, sanding, then refinishing.

 

Seems like good info in this thread: http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/outdrive-reconditioning.64043/

Going to continue learning about reconditioning Bravo Onee. Hoping that, with this amount of corrosion, disassembly, resurfacing, new seals won't be absolutely required but I'm already leaning the opposite way. Another worry is the bell housing/gimbal housing(?) - reading more into that today too.

Might be looking at this in person today instead of tomorrow.

 

That starboard swim platform strut has a pretty good bend in it.

It's hard to believe the interior can be that clean with a transom/outdrive that looks like that. If you go see it grab a hold of that outdrive and see if you can make the transom move. Some may strap the outdrive to save the transom, others may strap it because the transom is already rotten...

 

RE: transom, gonna tug, bang, and hopefully get some useable data from MR40. Not too worried about platform just yet but did notice the bend as well.

short answer 89 - Bravo 1.
long answer the 87 came mostly with 5.7 and alpha 1. underpowered, hard to stay on plane with people and gear aboard. By 89 most if not all came with 7.4 and Bravo 1.
Strap holding up outdrive - could be a safety strap from he was towing it to be put on blocks; probably nothing.
Hard to tell from picture if the outdrive is badly pitted or those are just barnacle scars.

My thoughts as well RE: scars/pitting... going to hopefully see it either today or Friday and know for sure. Was reading about folks who repair pitting with JB weld, sand, paint. Probably depends how deep and widespread it is.

Thanks for confirming Bravo1.

Thanks again everyone for your time. I'll continue to update this as I hear more.