Sure, if the rest of the boat is as clean as those engines. The low rpm motor should respond well to a tune and a fuel system cleaning, the compression is there.

 

Yes @scoflaw - rest of the boat is very clean. . front hatch has a small leak looks like it but nothing that will make me not buy the boat.

 

I'd make sure the transom assemblies don't leak. That could get very expensive.

 

If that boat has been winterized and not run since last fall or longer, then an hour or two of runtime will most likely bring that cylinder up. What did the plug from that cylinder look like? When were the risers changed last (assuming this is salt water). Could be the very beginning of the riser failing. Still, based on the pictures the boat looks to be on pretty darn good condition, that one cylinder would not make me walk away -- yet. Something is keeping that motor from reaching RPMs, I would get to the bottom of it before I commit to the purchase. On the other hand, realize it is a 15yr old boat.

 

@BillK2632 The Boat was winterized and it was put in the water just for the sea trial so yes last time it was ran was last season.
The plug i am not sure the tech who performed the compression test did not say anything about the plugs
This is a Salt Water boat and manifolds, risers and elbows were replaced in 2014. In 2017 then they did a reseal on those gaskets. engines temperature was normal under WOT as per survey.

the motor that has the 165 psi of is the actually reaching 4800 rpm under WOT
the other motor with all good reading is only reaching 4200 rpm under WOT so i am assuming a tune on this one should get it to 4800 rpms. l

i asked the owner if he will let me go with him on board and perform a leak down test on that cyl hopefully is under 20 %

 

@scoflaw Survey did not see anything wrong with that

 

Not a bad deal on a very good looking boat are the engines raw water cooled? Has it spent her life in salt water? Risers and manifolds last invoices are a must if they can’t provide that I would treat it as if you are replacing them as part of the deal

 

Yes salt water boat in NY Long Island . . .manifolds, risers and elbows were replaced in 2014. In 2017 we then they did a reseal on those gaskets. Also in 2017 on port outdrive we replaced gimbal bearing, u-joint assembly, bellows, seals.

 

I'm not seeing anything that would cause me to run away. It has MPI so the slow engine may just need the injectors cleaned.

 

a full tune up should take care of that issue.. however the engine with the low compression is the one who did better on the WOT test.

 

I wouldn't write the check until you find out why that engine won't reach the WOT spec.

 

I'm surprised that the engine with poor compression on the one cylinder reaches full spec while the good compression engine struggles. The RPM difference suggests a bad cylinder but the results are the opposite of what the numbers would suggest. I don't buy the idea that a boat fresh out of storage will not reach rated RPM. My boat was sea trialed right out of winter storage for a survey and ran at WOT numbers that were at spec and within 50 RPMs of each other. The buyer wondered about the significance of those numbers and the person doing the mechanical survey mentioned that a common cause of RPM differences is a weak cylinder. Of course there other causes of the differences as well.

 

View attachment 69856 I'm surprised that the engine with poor compression on the one cylinder reaches full spec while the good compression engine struggles. The RPM difference suggests a bad cylinder but the results are the opposite of what the numbers would suggest. I don't buy the idea that a boat fresh out of storage will not reach rated RPM. My boat was sea trialed right out of winter storage for a survey and ran at WOT numbers that were at spec and within 50 RPMs of each other. The buyer wondered about the significance of those numbers and the person doing the mechanical survey mentioned that a common cause of RPM differences is a weak cylinder. Of course there other causes of the differences as well.

My old 260 before tune up only did 4200 rpms after tune I was able to get 4700

 

Agree with DjN, would not sweat this one bit, solid foundation with those numbers, simple fix although injectors can get pricey. I wouldn't panic on the 165 cylinder either. Motors that clean are probably just as clean on the inside as well.

I would be more concerned with leaking transom assemblies which are difficult to spot on a sea trial.

 

I still think for the price I’m getting it and the surveyor priced it at $42000 with 5-7k into it I should be safe for few years I’m not planning on keeping it for more than 2/3 seasons ‍♂

 

... I’m not planning on keeping it for more than 2/3 seasons...

Knowing this I would say that now would be the best time to buy the next boat

-Kevin

 

You should have dry joint exhaust so that's another safety net as well.

 

I say no way even if they get that motor to run in spec. Raw water cooled motors no bueno where we live. Also I am leery of the 165 cylinder on compression test.

 

I agree with this. I hate to put the damper on someone's excitement of buying their next boat and there are those on here that would argue otherwise but raw water cooled motors cast iron motors that run in salt water have a live expectancy of 10-15 years. I personally would not even go look at a boat that has raw water cooled motors. Ask most marine mechanics and they would agree.

 

I went and looked at a chaparral for my brother in law two weeks ago, walked on the boat and saw motors were raw water cooled, got back in the car and left. Guy says u wanna make an offer the seller is motivated. I said no thank you

 

I like the boat and the price is good. The transom assembly service is due now 3K, the port fuel gauge is probably a bad sender and needs to be fixed. The compression issue could be a problem coming, bad valve, leaking head gasket. The dry joint manifolds and risers are good foe 8-10 years in salt water. I'd tune it up and have the props scanned. If you are buying the boat and planning to due the work it needs it will be fine for a few years even with the 165 on one cylinder. If you're a typical L.I. boater you'll be under 50 hours a season so no big deal but if you're a 100 hour per season boater walk away now. Just my two cents, Good Luck!

 

@Brite Idea thank you for your comment I am from NJ I maybe drive the boat 20 min to tices shoal a sand bar and maybe do a quick ride on the way back to the marina no more than 30 min.

My last boat I bough it with 353 hrs sold it with 390 so I don’t drive much.

 

I agree w others here who suggest you walk. I’ve owned several raw water in salt and you have an engine issue, a leak into your bilge, and misc minor items.

A tune up does nothing to repair and bad cylinder. If it’s low on compression but hits max rpm at wot, it’s not tuning. It’s cylinder/ rings / valves. No bueno.

Don’t make an emotional decision because she’s pretty. It’ll cost you big and when you go to sell her the next buyer will be hard to find.

 

Hi guys I get your point trust me. But for the price I’m getting this 300 even if my mechanic says u need a new head I’m gonna do it and I’ll still be in the positive end financially.

This is my 3rd year boating 3rd boat I am not ready just yet to jump into a 38 or 40 ft boat. I can buy the boat but the slip and maintenance on that will be way more than what I have for fun money.

I am happy to say that I just did the closing on the boat today. She will be arriving at my marina on Saturday.

My mechanic is right away going to do both sides:
bellows
shift cables
gimbles
Oil changes
New plugs
Possible new injectors (depends on the the current ones)
Full tune up on both engines

Will run the boat for a day at the end of the day he will do another compression test if the numbers are still all over the map I’ll have him open it up and change gaskets rings and etc.

Finally even with the money putting in for service there was nothing on the market near its price or the hours. Fingers crossed for me.

Thank you

 

Hi guys I get your point trust me. But for the price I’m getting this 300 even if my mechanic says u need a new head I’m gonna do it and I’ll still be in the positive end financially.

This is my 3rd year boating 3rd boat I am not ready just yet to jump into a 38 or 40 ft boat. I can buy the boat but the slip and maintenance on that will be way more than what I have for fun money.

I am happy to say that I just did the closing on the boat today. She will be arriving at my marina on Saturday.

My mechanic is right away going to do both sides:
bellows
shift cables
gimbles
Oil changes
New plugs
Possible new injectors (depends on the the current ones)
Full tune up on both engines

Will run the boat for a day at the end of the day he will do another compression test if the numbers are still all over the map I’ll have him open it up and change gaskets rings and etc.

Finally even with the money putting in for service there was nothing on the market near its price or the hours. Fingers crossed for me.

Thank you

Congrats!!

 

I just purchased a 2003 300Da this year needed a lot of cleanup. I took it out for first time and both engines would not go over 4000 rpm. I just did a compression test last weekend and the readings were 180-190 on both engines. I'm assuming Bad Gas and water seperators. Boat has 260 hrs and belive it just sat in marina for years. Put all new plugs and belts port was squeaking bad. Going to finish the tune up this weeked oil and filters. Check rotor cap. etc. Keep us posted and Congrats!

 

I’d never rely on a compression test alone - a leakdown should always go with it. Learned that the hard way.

 

Boats at the mechanic yard talked to him and he is not worried about the engine with low compressions he said to take it on a ride for a day then to do another compression and leak down.

 

 

What did the leak down test tell you? If it is solid them the low compression could be a valve train issue.

 

Hi guys I get your point trust me. But for the price I’m getting this 300 even if my mechanic says u need a new head I’m gonna do it and I’ll still be in the positive end financially.

This is my 3rd year boating 3rd boat I am not ready just yet to jump into a 38 or 40 ft boat. I can buy the boat but the slip and maintenance on that will be way more than what I have for fun money.

I am happy to say that I just did the closing on the boat today. She will be arriving at my marina on Saturday.

My mechanic is right away going to do both sides:
bellows
shift cables
gimbles
Oil changes
New plugs
Possible new injectors (depends on the the current ones)
Full tune up on both engines

Will run the boat for a day at the end of the day he will do another compression test if the numbers are still all over the map I’ll have him open it up and change gaskets rings and etc.

Finally even with the money putting in for service there was nothing on the market near its price or the hours. Fingers crossed for me.

Thank you

Of course you know that 30 won’t fit in your current slip..

 

I bought a vintage convertible car once that was down on compression on one cylinder and smoked a little at start up. it was owned by a retired gentleman who only drove it a couple times per year. and it had sat for 3 years when I bought it. after two years and 20,000 miles it finally cleared it's self out (must have been sticky rings from sitting) that was 7 years ago. I still have the car and just gave it to my son for his 16th birthday.

point is your boat has hardly been used and has sat most of it's life. a little tune up work which your doing and some hard use could quite possibly sort you out.

if the price is right it wouldn't bother me at all