I would remove old tape, buff, new tape, and then wax.

 

You have been given excellent advice.

MM

 

Take the old tape off first. This will require a solvent to get rid of the glue residue left behind. Acetone is a good solvent to use on the residue. Once that is gone, do a good job of compounding and buffing of the hull a foot above and below the waterline stripe. Then install the new stripes. When those are fully cured, polish the rest of the boat and wax it. Go lightly around the area of the new stripes so as to not damage them. After 24-48 hours of direct sun, they are much less prone to being dislodged.

 

I just did this. I took the tape off (a royal PIA), used acetone to clean up the residue, polished the entire hull then new tape and finally wax. Looks great. Note: my boat was inside in 70* temp and the tape stuck immediately so I wasn't concerned about waxing over it with my buffer. Sorry for the sideways photo - but you get the idea of the finished product on an '05 Blue hull.

 

Captn TJ, wow nice job!!

Thanks everyone for the replies

 

Looks even better in person. Sanded with 2000 paper, used Meguiers Color Restorer, 2 coats of Meguiers polish and coat of Collinite wax. Looked like this before I even put on the wax.

 

If your going to remove stripes, check out the 3M stripe removal wheel. Used it on my previous ‘80 260 to pull all the strips and it worked great. Didnt harm the fiberglass, granted I was also planning to compound the entire hull due to heavy oxidation. Not sure if there are any negatives to using it on newer boats / gel coats. Curious if others have used it?

 

+1 to the decal remover wheel. Took all the decals off my 290 in 3 hours.

 

Thanks for rubbing it in, pun intended. LOL. Wish I had used a wheel instead of heat gun. Took about 12 hours to remove 5 stripes on my 3870.

MM

 

I just purchased and used the 3M wheel to remove the stripes between my bridge and cockpit. It worked perfect. Did not harm the gelcoat in any way.

Bennett

 

I paid a guy $650 dollars last spring to strip & replace my double stripes at the water line & above the rub rail. Took me zero hours....lol

 

I just re-did my boot stripes, and will be doing my Uncle’s for him in the coming week or so.
Remove the old stripes and all traces of old adhesive, polish hull, install new vinyl stripes, then wax.
Once I had the surface clean and properly prepped I had a local sign guy who stripes boats install the new stripes and I was his helper.
Removing the old stripes is all labor but not a very difficult job. Doing it yourself, if you have the time, will save you a good amount of money.
I chose to spend the money on the sign guy to make sure the double stripe looked good. I’ve done single ones myself before, but the doubles can be more of a challenge.
Future polishing with a machine can damage or cause the new stripes to wear prematurely.
Best way to avoid it is to cover them with blue painters tape, avoid hitting them directly with the machine, once the hull is polished you can remove the tape and clean the stripes and the area below them by hand. You can use either a good cleaner wax or light polish followed by wax.

 

Following in your footsteps John. Pulled the stripes this morning. Figured might as well get it redone, the old ones were 60% gone anyway forward of the port holes.

 

All stripes off.. she looks naked.

ordering new Sundancer decals and stripe samples to match up. Going to compound/buff out then reapply.

 

I spent a couple of hours trying to remove my stripes (pinstriping, not the boot stripe) and then bought the 3m wheel and finished the job in 30min - get the wheel! As far as waxing / buffing I had wax around the stripe edges - over time a buffing wheel will start lifting the edges of the stripes.

 

I'm doing mine now. I put one on yesterday, and will be doing tho other side in a day or two. The wheel works really well, I'm glad I got it. I ordered the new ones from Hullstripes. I also made up solution of distilled water and a little baby shampoo. That made things so much easier, I was able to move it around to get it where it needed to be.

 

Use an eraser wheel on a drill-no way try doing it by hand on something more than a couple years old. BE CAREFUL OF THE RPM as you may burn the gelcoat and make yellow marks.
Remove your original ones-tape off the bottom paint-tape just above the bottom paint line (1/8") as the tape will stick better to the gel. Wheel the sides and wax. Wipe down with some alcohol or wax&grease remover prior to installing new stripes. Then put a light coat of wax back over the stripes and surrounding area when done-pull the masking tape.
I wouldn't wheel over new stripes as they haven't had a chance to "set". Next year have at it-as long as you bought quality brand material!

 

The 3M wheels work well but there is a risk of surface marring when using them and there is another way to remove vinyl stripes that is just as easy without that risk.
I removed my 2002 vinyl boot stripe last Spring with plastic razor blades and adhesive remover.
Was pretty easy with no mess or surface marring.
Did the same thing the next day on my Uncle’s 1995 22’ boat.
I’ve used that method several times over the years.
I used to use a product called 747 adhesive remover that worked great, but then I found out about a water based product named “Rapid Remover” that works just as well so that’s what I switched to.
I followed the directions and it was great!
The local sign guy told me about it.

I polished the sides afterward, installed new stripes to a clean residue free surface, then applied wax as usual.
No problem waxing vinyl stripes as long as you do it by hand, but avoid them with a rotary polisher and pad.
Letting your Rotary polishing machine and hit your vinyl stripes will shorten their life span.
I usually rake a few minutes to tape off the vinyl stripes, and lettering on the transom, with painters tape before going at the gelcoat with my machine.
The painters tape reminds me to stay away.

 

Stipes came off easily except on the front were they were seriously degraded/cracked/eroded. However, some heat and a scraper go most of it off, and acetone got the rest.

Heading out to buff and polish.

Looking a lot better!

 

Stipes came off easily except on the front were they were seriously degraded/cracked/eroded. However, some heat and a scraper go most of it off, and acetone got the rest.

Heading out to buff and polish.

Looking a lot better!

View attachment 82654

what polish/wax are you using? I see the 3M bottle. I've used the finesse it and it works well.

 

Looks fantastic!

 

Before/after on a section I was working on...

And for John...a little more boat porn. Topside finished!

 

Before/after on a section I was working on...

View attachment 82840

And for John...a little more boat porn. Topside finished!

View attachment 82841

Beautiful!

What machine and pad (type/size) did you use.
I find some of the areas along the sides of the cabin almost impossible to get with the rotary machine and 9” wool pad.

 

Great job everyone!
Just wondering if anyone left the pinstriping off or if replaced, where did you get them?

 

I bought mine from the forum sponsor Hullstripes.

 

This perfect it...#2 light polish and wax.

 

7” variable speed buffer and wool pad from harbor freight tools. I assumed that I might drop it in the lake...

I have torn the cord up wrapping it up a couple times lol!

 

Lol!
Running the cord from the power source, across your shoulders from weak side to the machine on your strong side helps with that.
It puts some distance between the machine and the cord preventing it from hanging too close.
Tough to do though when balanced on one knee between the side of the cabin and rail trying to polish with a rotary.
That’s why I hate doing the sections between the cockpit and front windshield.
My then 18 year old son wrapped the cord on my Makita two years ago while learning how to polish on my Uncle’s boat. I kept telling him to be conscious of where the cord was, but he thinks I’m an idiot and he always has to learn the hard way.

 

Polishing the topside between the cockpit and windsheild is were I had the issue, and I wrapped it once doing the hullside yesterday. I was laying on my stomach with the polisher held out at arms length...and was getting fatigued. They make cordless, but I cant imagine getting much time out of one.

I'm down to the starboard side, and the bow. I'm going to have to nose the boat in to get to that section.

Decals ordered, and I have color samples coming from hullstripes.com, and I'll order the stripes once I see the color.

 

Polishing the topside between the cockpit and windsheild is were I had the issue, and I wrapped it once doing the hullside yesterday. I was laying on my stomach with the polisher held out at arms length...and was getting fatigued. They make cordless, but I cant imagine getting much time out of one.

I'm down to the starboard side, and the bow. I'm going to have to nose the boat in to get to that section.

Decals ordered, and I have color samples coming from hullstripes.com, and I'll order the stripes once I see the color.

Your topsides came out beautiful, so it was worth it.
I installed new boot stripes from hull stripes, and have the ones for the topsides.
Was going to get the Sundancer emblems from my local sign guy, he has the graphic file and was going to match the color of what I have from Hull Stripes, and install everything before launch this Spring but my sign guy is closed down by Comrade Cuomo as a non essential business so it didn’t get done.
No way ai was going to delay launch until this crap all goes away.
Once the sign guy opens up again, assuming he is still alive, I will look in to doing it in the water or decide if I want to hold off until next Spring.
BTW: I have a smaller rotary polisher that is made by Flex. I picked it up several years ago to do hard to reach areas on cars using 3” pads.
Tried it on the tight spots on the sides of the cabin but the 3” pads are junk on the gelcoat. I might try a slightly larger pad on the smaller machine for those tight spots to see if they are any better.