Isn't that what that little "loop" is for right in the middle of the picture?

 

The loop is for the safety lanyard. Depending on the depth of normal anchoring areas and length of chain he already has will denote whether he needs a chain stop or a cleat mounted on that piece of starboard. Since it looks like he is in Mi. my guess is a cleat?

 

No need to add a cleat unless you just want to. You can use the two on the bow. Use a "standard" length of rope. One end already has a loop, fasten it to one cleat then,place the free end thru a clevis. Attach the clevis to the rode, then tie the free end to other cleat so that the rode hangs below the pulpit. Now the "standard" rope acts as a shock absorber. The method of connection to the rode will depend on if you have chain or rope deployed.

 

OK...I think that was what I had envisioned given there's no cleat in-line with the anchor rollers. The part I don't understand is the connection of the rode to the "bridle" you describe creating. The rode will be the 1/2" 3 strand. I've seen the method used with a chain rode but not on rope. How do I do that?

 

You do need to use a cleat as the windlass is not designed for the load. You can use a bridle as suggested or use one of the bow cleats. It really does not matter. Just don't use the windlass.

 

I use a large stainless mooring snap like this one, with about 10 feet of 1/2 line tied in the middle to the eye. Once the anchor is set, I clip this to the chain and tie the ends to the cleats. I don't like the idea of a bridle connected to the chain below the pulpit on our style boats. If you have to pull anchor quickly in an emergency you want it to be quick and easy to disconnnect. This is.

 

I use a large stainless mooring snap like this one, with about 10 feet of 1/2 line tied in the middle to the eye. Once the anchor is set, I clip this to the chain and tie the ends to the cleats. I don't like the idea of a bridle connected to the chain below the pulpit on our style boats. If you have to pull anchor quickly in an emergency you want it to be quick and easy to disconnnect. This is.
View attachment 78503

I do something similar, but I have about a 6' length of line with a snubber on it. A stainless snap carabiner into the chain with the rope loop through the center windlass cleat. We're only on an inland lake, or I'd probably go full bridal, but the bridal would be a lot of education for the Admiral who would probably wind up getting a railing support tangled.

Even on an inland lake it's often surprising the stretch I see on the snubber.

 

This is the setup that we often use. We however have 100' of chain so this setup helps soften the harshness of the chain.

 

This is the setup that we often use. We however have 100' of chain so this setup helps soften the harshness of the chain.

Great post! Very helpful.

 

For a day/lunch hook, no reason you can't just cleat the rode to one of your bow cleats. The point is to take the strain off the windlass. For an overnight you can rig a bridle like has been pointed out above - since your rode is rope, just use a rolling hitch to tie the bridle to the rode. The bridle will just let the boat track straight behind the anchor.

 

Can I cleat the rode to one of my bow cleats for an overnight? Is it necessary to use a bridle? I noticed what seemed like a difference of opinion whether to use a bridle vs tying to one cleat. Curious about your thoughts.

Dan

 

As long as your happy with how the boat sits with the rode attached to the cleat, there is no problem. Boat's tend to face the windw/current and walk back and forth at anchor, like mentioned above. So the boat sitting a little sideways to the wind/current might annoy you -- but otherwise, there is no problem - granted it is much smaller, but I just cleat my rode to one of the bow cleats. Try it out both ways, neither is right or wrong. Now, if you have a chain rode that is a different story - you want the bridal to act as a snubber, like Keith below has.

 

You can, but it depends on your boat’s cleat locations.

My bow cleats are far enough back and off center that I don’t do this. This is compounded by my rear anchor cleats being 7 feet off center.

My boat gets too wonky at anchor unless my forward line is straight out off the bow. If it’s windy I can swing around like a pendulum...no good.

 

I posted this a few months ago and am happy to report it's performed very well. Made it from scrach and all-in it was about $100. Love the Mantus chain hook.

 

^^^^ this is exactly why I don’t use a tied on bridle. A clip or other chain attachment can be removed quickly.

 

Agree. The problem I see with the chain hooks that I would trust to stay on like the mantus is it won’t pass up through the bow roller cleanly. I have a serrated stainless knife Velcroed inside the chain locker to cut the line attaching the chain to the boat if I ever have to. I guess I hope that works to cut the rolling hitch off if necessary.

 

Sunbber

 

I'm new to dealing with a windlass so have done a little research to get the gist of the whole process. I'm in a 330DA with a chain/rope rode. What I understand is that when setting the anchor and at anchor, the rode should be cleated off to take the stress off the windlass...makes sense to me. The issue is, the 330DA only has cleats that aren't friendly to doing that. Should I add a cleat closer to the centerline of the boat or possibly a chock to route the rope rode through and use an existing bow cleat? What's your advice? View attachment 78484

Snubber

 

Who knew a little question on anchoring could generate this much dialog? Seems there's lots to consider in the setup. The ability to free the anchor line from the bridle was the first thing I thought of when the rolling hitch was mentioned. Therefore I'll probably be looking at the best way to accomplish cleating the line within my set-up. Whether that's adding a cleat, a chock or just use the existing hardware, remains to be explored when I get near the boat again. No question I'd have a bridle with a clip of some type if I had a chain rode...unfortunately, that's not the case.

 

 

View attachment 78587

great post, that's the way to do it

 

I use one of these hooked into my chain... I have all chain... I Hook one end on my center cleat, and the other through the chain.

 

I use one of these hooked into my chain... I have all chain... I Hook one end on my center cleat, and the other through the chain.
View attachment 78600

Being a newbie with a big boat all the info in this post is a little overwhelming.
We haven’t anchored out for the night yet since we have only had it since Sept.
I will certainly look at the set up on the 390my, kinda thought it was set up with a safety pin through a bracket.
If not I would sure like to be able to use the bungee cord solution if that works.
Is it possible this has been over engineered?

 

We also use anchor. And have experienced that it works better (more accurately and no false alarms) on the I-pad vs the phone. Probably a better GPS. I can't hear the MFD/anchor watches that are up on the bridge down in the stateroom.
1 thing is for sure, nothing but nothing gets your butt up and out of that bed faster than that alarm going off in the middle of the night. Thankfully our only panic was a false alarm when I set the swing zone a little too tight.

 

Another trick I've learned is keep the hatch over the berth un-latched. That makes it easy to do the occasional gopher-pop when you're nervous, especially if the anchor alarm goes off.

 

If you have line rode why not just take it to one or the other bow cleats. I've done that and found the boat does not swing around so much.

 

Yes, that's an option but it seemed to make a difference on my 300DA (without windlass) by being offset. Certainly not the end of the world, but I was looking for an improved experience. If the line runs through the pulpit then to the bow cleat, I think it will pull against a stanchion or other unfriendly surface along the side of the pulpit opening. Seems there are a few good options to explore.

 

Not only does a bridal / snubber gets the windlass out of the primary load path but it also unloads the chain through the anchor roller and keeps it from banging around all night.

 

So what about anchoring on the east coast, I’ve heard you have to take extra precautions because of the huge tidal swings up north, like 10 feet, is that right? We want to do the great loop in 5-6 years, so that might come up. Of course, my wife enjoys marina visits way more than on the hook.

 

maybe we'll see you on the loop … same timeframe for us. We'll be the ones anchored with a bridle, 3 anchor alarms, flashing lights and warning banner

 

I set the anchor and then pull the boat forward to create slack and use the slack to tie off the rode to the cleat. Once tied off the slack is eliminated and the boat is anchored from the cleat which takes the full load.

 

Here's my setup. You can see there are 3 full-sized cleats on the bow. One Port, one Stb, and one just forward of the windlass. If I'm planning to stay on the hook overnight, I'll reach under the bow pulpit, grab the anchor rode and cleat it to either side, but normally will just cleat it by the windlass. Not sure if it prevents more pivoting on the side cleat or not.