MC,

I tried the same type of anchor. For me, in sand, it did not hold.

A small danforth with about 6' of chain + 5:1 scope works for me.

 

This is undersized however this is not your main anchor. Just a anchor to hold your boat "stern to shore" on calm days.

Anchor + chain + rode = $70

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...desc=8_Super_Hooker_Anchor_Kit&cname=Anchors-Accessories&r=view&i=31789&aID=25D

Next size up = $100

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...roduct/details.cgi?r=view&merchID=1006&i=31790&pdesc=13_Super_Hooker_Anchor_Kit

 

This is undersized however this is not your main anchor. Just a anchor to hold your boat "stern to shore" on calm days.

Anchor + chain + rode = $70

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...desc=8_Super_Hooker_Anchor_Kit&cname=Anchors-Accessories&r=view&i=31789&aID=25D

Next size up = $100

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...roduct/details.cgi?r=view&merchID=1006&i=31790&pdesc=13_Super_Hooker_Anchor_Kit

Does that fit in your transom locker without a problem?

 

Get a Fortress Anchor, it can be disassembled can even buy a storage back for it and keep it in your transom locker.

 

A good freind got a Fortress.

$Expensive for a 2nd anchor but he said it works great.

 

Have the same anchor for our Zodiac..........

It is a good anchor but is probably too light and small for your boat. It might work on a calm day, but should there be a cross current, or wind change you might find yourself scrambling.

Henry

 

I use a Fortress for my rear anchor. It's nice and light and holds well and it fits in the Lazarette of our 260DA.

 

Also, I normally the stern anchor to the ski-hook (don’t look at my signature picture.) When I use the stern anchor it’s in a shallow area, 3 feet or less depth. That ski hook is barely above the water, not more then a foot. So if I toss the anchor a reasonable 20’ and the total depth from the ski hook to the sand bottom is 4’ my scope is 5:1.

If you are using a danforth anchor with stand bottom the scope and chain is as important if not more important then the anchor size.

Again, its not the main anchor.

 

I just use the one anchor method with a super long rope. Anchor like you normally would, tie of lightly to a cleat, run the same rope down the side of the boat to the beach and tie off to the nearest tree, rock, root or anything else. What is really nice about this method is that I can adjust the boat in and out based on wind, waves or tides (if we had any in Northern Idaho!). When you unload the boat, move it in close and then afterwards, slide it out a few feet. When you are ready to load, move it closer again. It's easy and you can leave the anchor with a bouy and return if you need too. That way you still have the second anchor for those quick trips and this one marks your spot while you are gone.

When I return, I grab the buoy off the swim step and pull like mad towards shore. This swings the bow of the boat out so that I can drape it over the front cleat and tie it off on a stern cleat. The boat is facing out and is ready for some waves.

 

...and tie off to the nearest tree, rock, root or anything else...quote]
No trees, rocks, roots or anything else on the shores I boat to. Only sand. I need a plow anchor.

 

Thanks guys!! Just the kind of guidance I was looking for! Matt

 

The best money I ever spend on our boat was for an FX-11 Fortress for the stern anchor. Yes, they are expensive but worth every penny. I've used it for 10 years and it has yet to pull loose, and we are out nearly every day in winds from all directions.

I'd think a 7 lb Fortress would work and they are small enough to stow in your trunk. Fortress does offer a slightly cheaper version.....I forget the name. I bought one in a pawn shop for a spare and side by side with 11 lb Fortress there is no difference in size or features, but there may be a different finish.

 

I'd think a 7 lb Fortress would work and they are small enough to stow in your trunk. Fortress does offer a slightly cheaper version.....I forget the name. I bought one in a pawn shop for a spare and side by side with 11 lb Fortress there is no difference in size or features, but there may be a different finish.

The Guardian series is the cheaper version of the aluminum Fortress units. I use the FX-11 on my 260DA and I just turn it sideways to get into the Lazarrete. The FX-7 would probably be adequate as well and you can find new ones for under $100.

I also never had one bit of trouble with mine holding . To keep it from beating up the Lazarette, I also put some heater hose on the ends of it to act as a cushion.

 

We use 2 aft Fortress's and we LOVE them!!!!! The are much easier to handle on the boat and make the whole process easier, plus the hold really well!!!!!

Here is a picture of the method we use.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h206/kjtwilson/260DA12-13Aug06023_jpgprep.jpg

 

Mike, you don't have to go all the way to Idaho, just a few miles north to NH and you'll have more trees than you can handle.

I have two stern anchors. The nice day, stop the swinging anchor is a tiny 4.4 lb claw (like a bruce). It cost almost nothing and I can throw it forever. I just set the front hook settle back towards the shore and throw. If it only gets sand, it will pullout but any rocks or roots and it will stick amazingly well. The only hard part is getting out.

The more normal stern anchor is a 13 lb tie down (a danforth clone) with the shank and crossbars shortened. It now fits in the trunk and sits on a spare type IV PFD to stop the banging. It's a little harder to set with the cut backs but usually grabs well in sand or mud.

This was all on the 300, may have to rethink this with the bigger boat.

 

Mike, you don't have to go all the way to Idaho, just a few miles north to NH and you'll have more trees than you can handle.

I've boated up there on your lake. Very nice. Love the trees. The underwater hazards scared the crap out of me. That lake is like a mine field. I know why they call it the granite state. Made me consider the opportunity to open a prop shop on the lake.

 

Usually it's more than the prop. A guy a few slips down just tapped the rocks at headway speed this fall. This is the oldtimer that everyone knows and trusts, 15 seasons with no problems. Now he needs one new prop, the other can be fixed, a new shaft and strut, two new rudders. Looks like about $9000.

Then again if you have an outdrive this is waiting:

But they're well marked and we have good charts. If you stay on the right side of the markers, you will be safe. Just stay out of the Witches and the Graveyard.

 

Just be very careful about a stern anchor. I had one on last season and some wind gusts kicked up unexpectedly. The boat swung around enough to break the anchor loose. It then caught again. The boat swung around and the line caught on, and then DESTROYED a trim tab.

 

Yikes! Thanks for the warning, Bill! Given my somewhat anal nature, I am sure that anytime we are tied-up in this configuration, I'm going to watch it like a hawk!

 

I use an 11 lb Bruce anchor for my stearn. Works great except some times it will not release until you are right over top. This is a problem when beached in a crowd as you can not haul anchor until you are actualy under way.
Great anchors. Hold with 4 to 1 rode, resets itself if the wind changes, no chain needed. This anchor would hold my 310 as a main anchor if needed. Fits in the the little locker on the port side including 100 feet of 1/2 inch yacht braid.

 

I use the sand spike. Works great! Every time I'm at the beach, people ask where they can get one.
http://www.sandspike.com/

 

Fortress.

 

I use the fortress FX-11. I use it as a rear anchor and sometimes use it at 30 degrees off the bow when I have wind and the current going different directions in sand or muddy conditions.

$113.85 here http://www.turtlemarine.com/fortressfx7.html
I use 3 feet of chain to keep the shank down and 100 foot of rode.

 

A question from a newbie on using TWO anchors.... I understand you put down the forward anchor and then back down and then deploy the aft anchor... Which do you pull up first when it's time to move?? I would think the aft anchor but how do you pull it up?? Do you back down some more?? Or am I completely wrong??

 

We just pick it up and carry it on the boat.

We use a cheap danforth and a rope. It is a second anchor and all I am trying to do is keep the boat from moving from side to side.

 

I connect a fender to the anchor line with a D-ring. This helps to mark the line for other boaters see and when it is time to leave, I swim or paddle out on my kayak and drag the fender towards the anchor. Usually, the fender has enough buoyancy to help release the anchor. If the anchor is really set, then I pay out more line (I use floating line) and retrieve the forward anchor first, connect the rear line to a forward cleat and pull overtop of it until it releases.