I was really hoping someone might chime in here.
I did the replacement today and couldn't get anywhere with the right/left front/back plan. None would let go.
I lightly pried up the rail at the mounting bolt and it popped off instantly with injectors randomly located. It seems the original paint job factored into which one came out of which side.
Cleaned everything up, swapped limit clips to the new ones and attempted the reinstall. The reinstall wording and Pic also seemed contradictory. I went with the picture and it sort of worked. The trick was getting each aligned into the holes as you move along. Got them all aligned, so I thought, tightened the bolts little by little making sure each seemed to be seated, but cyl 1&3 were not aligned properly and the orings in the rail were damaged. Spraying gas was the indicator. Rather than be down -another- week or 2, I reused 2 of the originals and had success on the second round. It fired up on the first try, and no leaks. I'm calling that a win.
Now I can get back to troubleshooting the overcharge issue.

 

Did you lubricate the o-rings before installing?

 

With soapy water as per the service manual. They slipped in easily but I think there was an alignment issue on the last 2 in the sequence.

 

I had the exact same experience as you including attempting to understand the service manual. Can't recall exactly what i did but ended up with leaks after the first attempt with O-rings that appeared to be damaged. I reused some of the original O-rings to replace the damaged ones during the second attempt and was successful. Note - I pull ed the injectors to have them cleaned, new O-rings, new baskets, and tested. Project was a success but not without the same frustration you experienced.

 

Sounds the same. Do you have the mefi 1 or 3? The assy pics in the manual are the mefi 1 rail. I have the 3 which has protruding mounting feet.

 

I think it's leave one bank in and pull the other with the intake

 

Yes, that is part of the big picture. I was unable to keep them in that position as I removed it. They randomly stayed where they wanted.
The confusion is that they show, and annotate, a L/R situation that is the opposite of the descriptive steps. Having done the install it makes sense that the rear end (reinstall starting point) would start with the injectors that are closest to the rear end and then work your way forward, regardless of L/R reference. Basically I got them into the holes working forward, with the injectors slightly misaligned and once all were partly in, wiggle and force it down and they come into alignment as it goes down.
This seems to correspond with the picture.

 

When I changed out all my injectors on my 5.7 I just popped out both sides. This may not have been per-instruction, but it sure made it easier to work with. I suppose though if you are only changing them on one side, popping that one side may be easier. I'd just worry about adding undue torque to the opposite bank given you may be dealing with some brittleness.

 

Does anyone know if there is any sort of recalibration required when replacing injectors? I do not recall seeing any discussions on this when I researched replacing them. I went with a high quality replacement since the set of 8 was cheaper than 1 OEM. My BIL is a senior certified tech and was telling me that good aftermarket ones should be no concern. If I have doubt in the future I may have the 7 good ones rebuilt and replace the broken one. Since I was not using an OEM one, I opted to do a full set that matched. So far this engine seems OK....stbd not so. Engine hours 1075, original injectors.

It's been a crappy time this season, between this issue, oppressive heat/storms and other distractions.
While waiting on getting these injectors done I did some other maint and managed to make more things go wrong.
I'd ignored the stbd engine last season as I spent 2 months doing a top end rebuild on port due to failed manifolds. Last season had 0 issues, once I finished the port rebuild.
This season started trying to find overcharging issues, which turned out to be both alternators, which I couldn't troubleshoot till i was in the water, and broke the port injector doing that. I had to replace 4 1 yr old batteries due to the overcharging issue.
I found the alternator issues ultimately, loose wire on 1, bad main fuse on other. New fuse, R&R on alternators and new brush/regulators. All good now.
I replaced the sea water pump and did a compression test (2@135, 6@150) on the stbd engine. I got 2 wires swapped on stbd plugs as I later learned. The pump was really bad. The port one got done during the rebuild last year, and was very good so the housing became a spare.
I then killed that new port sea water pump when I closed, instead of opening, the inlet when I first fired it up after the injector replacement. It started on the first try, and 5 min later the pump housing split open. Ugh.
Finally ready to go out and the stbd plug wire issue showed up as 2500rpm was max. Limped back to dock, but too hot to check that day. Fixed that but no opportunity to get out again till this past weekend.

All seemed fine till we got past the no wake and across the Swan Point bar, but neither engine wanted to go over about 3800rpm. 4000+ was no problem last year. I decided to proceed anyway. Stopped for gas at Tolchester, then up to Worton. Along the way stbd suddenly dropped below 3200 and would not go higher. Anchored for a while and then chased home by pending storms. On the way back a similar situation, but it surged +/- 300 rpm most of the way. A sudden change, randomly, a few seconds to maybe 30 seconds. Eventually it seemed like each wave bounce triggered a change, but not 100% sure. Stbd was consuming about 30% more fuel than port.

Back at the dock I checked the wires again, and they were still correct, and no indication of loose/bad ends. I then replaced the wires cap and rotor, on both engines. Both sound great, and the data from my Fox Gateway shows very similar numbers on both engines, up to 3000rpm, no load. I'm hesitant to do that very long, or go higher with no load.
We are headed out tonight to see how things are working now. Another on Sunday, and then away for our first 3 day trip next weekend. I have tonight and Sunday to make sure all is good before committing on the 3 day trip.
I'm assuming port is OK and can't make WOT due to stbd issues.

Any thoughts on what else I can check statically/at the dock? Once we head out they are too hot to work on for pretty much the rest of the day. I know there could be a long list of possibilities, but I'm trying to focus on what I touched first.

 

No recal. when replacing injectors.

 

Good luck . Hope your ok