No crank sounds like a dead battery. What voltage is it showing?

 

12 to 13v

 

Bad batts can show a good voltage until it gets with a load. Shore power to a bad batt means nothing.i been burned so many times chasing problems when it was the battery.
Tesla? Oh fk no. I never trust a battery.
How many batts you got? If only one, get it tested before you dig deeper.

 

We got 2 batteries.

 

More info... when you said "then nothing"... does that mean it didn't even crank? Or does it crank but not fire?

Did you try each battery individually?

12 - 13 volts is a huge range. Turn off the charger, put the switch on #1 and run drive up and down a couple times. Give it a minute, then measure V directly at the battery with a volt meter. Do the same for #2.

 

No clicking or noises from starter or engine compartment. Volts. If I remember 12.2

 

12.2 is very low.

Individual measurements?

Do the things I suggested and post back. Or take them out and get them load tested.

 

Will do. Thanks

 

I am still thinking batteries, components dont just go bad from sitting. On the other hand, its nearly impossible for 2 batts to take a dump at same time.
Scott, heres a thought. Last summer i would turn the key get nothing, turn a few times and it would fire up. Maybe ignition key part in dash?
Got a new Sierra ignition, all good now.

 

Replaced the ignition about 3 months ago. Old one was spinning and was a pain the butt to fuss with. We have had a lot of rain and when I checked to see if something was disconnected it was a little wet on the outside of the cylinder. I'll check that as well.

 

2 quick things to check….

the kill switch and lanyard

there is a breaker near the batteries, the one with the swing out arm. Did that trip?

 

When you flip the dash switch from off to On, does the fuel pump run?

If it doesn't turn over, I'd go with batteries first, but there are several little things that can stop it from cranking.

You might not be in neutral or the adjustment of the shifter is off and it thinks it's not in neutral.

The main breaker near the starter solenoid could be tripped.

I've had an off-and-on problem where the back of the dash starter switch plugs into the loom is a little loose, so I can turn it to on, get the beep, but when I press to start nothing happens. I can reach up and move that plug a bit and then I can start. It's on my list of things to fix but in the mean time, it's something quick and easy to check.

 

I carry one of those portable jump packs - fully charged. I'd try one of those to eliminate the batteries as the problem.

 

Scott, I’m out of ideas. Good luck. Just remember this. It’s almost the simplest things you overlook. Before you dig deeper.

 

When I hot wire this solenoid the engine click. Doesn't crank.. just clicks

 

You don't have enough 12v power, or your starter crapped out. Check and clean all relative connections including the battery ground cable that bolts to rear of the engine.

 

Battery 1 is actually 13v. Battery 2 is 13.0 as well

 

Volts are reading 12.7 and 12.8

 

Load test batteries?
Jumper the 2 large lugs on the slave solonoid?
Jamb a large screwdriver between the 2 large terminals on the starter itself to eliminate a bad starter. Battery to starter directly.

 

Ending result.. I am replacing the starter today. Once I replaced the slave solenoid on top next to the 50 amp breaker and attempted to crank it up, the starter pin ( probably not the right thing to call it) but it didn't engage the wheel that turns the flywheel? Sorry, I don't know all the right terms.. :|

 

Starter has been replaced along with the slave solenoid on the top of the engine. All works great and we're ready for the water. Also took a few minutes to fix the leak in the A/C condensate line under the cabin step.
Thanks everyone for your assistance and help in troubleshooting the issue.