My 2009 310 sundancer engine hatch wont open. When I push the up button nothing happens. When I push the down button I can hear the motor run. Also the anchor windless up/down which is next to the hatch lift buttons, does not work either. Everything else on the control pad is working. Definitely not the batteries. They are only 8 months old. The boat is connected to shore power all of the time. I was at the boat yesterday and the hatch lift worked perfect. Today, nothing View attachment 82888

Since the breaker (on the forward ER bulkhead) isn’t tripped as you’re getting power in the down position, I would wonder if you’re keypad/EIM may be failing? Mine have never misbehaved but the fact that you have other buttons that also appear to be affected makes me think it’s a possibility. As I understand, they become intermittent when they start to fail.

In order to lift the hatch manually, you’ll need to pull the pins (access ports hidden in hatch lid) on each and the attempt to lift it with the help of (many) friends. I suggest having a few pieces of lumber handy to prop it up as the lifting begins...it’s a beast.

 

Since the breaker (on the forward ER bulkhead) isn’t tripped as you’re getting power in the down position, I would wonder if you’re keypad/EIM may be failing? Mine have never misbehaved but the fact that you have other buttons that also appear to be affected makes me think it’s a possibility. As I understand, they become intermittent when they start to fail.

In order to lift the hatch manually, you’ll need to pull the pins (access ports hidden in hatch lid) on each and the attempt to lift it with the help of (many) friends. I suggest having a few pieces of lumber handy to prop it up as the lifting begins...it’s a beast.

Since the breaker (on the forward ER bulkhead) isn’t tripped as you’re getting power in the down position, I would wonder if you’re keypad/EIM may be failing? Mine have never misbehaved but the fact that you have other buttons that also appear to be affected makes me think it’s a possibility. As I understand, they become intermittent when they start to fail.

In order to lift the hatch manually, you’ll need to pull the pins (access ports hidden in hatch lid) on each and the attempt to lift it with the help of (many) friends. I suggest having a few pieces of lumber handy to prop it up as the lifting begins...it’s a beast.

I couldn’t find a spot to get to the pins to manually lift it today. I am also thinking it might be the keypad also.

 

watching this with dread.

 

Starboard actuator, viewed from centerline (stern is to the right, bow to the left). Access port is visible above the blue water line.

Port actuator, viewed looking aft (starboard to left, port to right):

Note that I also took the opportunity to attempt to "weigh" the hatch using a hydraulic tongue scale. My experience suggests a required lifting force of at least 180 lbs, but probably closer to 300 lbs at the front edge of the lid. The port side that you can access is significantly lighter than the starboard side (presumably due to side seating structure).

I did not figure out a non-destructive way to fashion a handle for lifting...

 

Starboard actuator, viewed from centerline (stern is to the right, bow to the left). Access port is visible above the blue water line.

Port actuator, viewed looking aft (starboard to left, port to right):

Note that I also took the opportunity to attempt to "weigh" the hatch using a hydraulic tongue scale. My experience suggests a required lifting force of at least 180 lbs, but probably closer to 300 lbs at the front edge of the lid. The port side that you can access is significantly lighter than the starboard side (presumably due to side seating structure).

I did not figure out a non-destructive way to fashion a handle for lifting...

Awesome! Thank you for the pictures. I'll let you know how it goes. Hopefully will have it done tomorrow or Saturday.

 

Yours in very close to mine Stephenm27. I went and looked at it, and the starboard side would be very difficult to get to the pin. I'm not sure why they do that.
Mine also has a "leg" to rest it on when raised.

 

Yours in very close to mine Stephenm27. I went and looked at it, and the starboard side would be very difficult to get to the pin. I'm not sure why they do that.
Mine also has a "leg" to rest it on when raised

The starboard pin would definitely be an arm-stretcher.

Worse yet, I just noted that, even when fully closed, my starboard pin still has load on it (couldn't be pulled) when the actuator is fully retracted. I will be addressing this before I'm facing the challenge Brando99 currently is...

 

Tight/pressure on the pin: On the ones I've lifted before, the top of the hydraulic arm is not really completely "tight". It slides. So if you lift the hatch (as mentioned, remove table mount and use a cross piece) enough to put a couple 2x's under the lip of the hatch in a couple areas, then let the hatch back down onto the 2x's, that takes all the weight of the hatch off the pins making them easier to remove.

 

You are correct, the upper mounts are indeed made with a slide joint. However, the actuator should not be carrying load when full retracted as it distorts the hatch and probably isn’t great for the gear mechanism. I’m going to evaluate the actuator mount to see if I can lower it a bit...

 

I think I read a thread sometime back where some were adding an alternate power source to the actuators so that if they had a failure, either battery or switch pad, they could supply 12v directly to the actuators and lift the hatch. It is something done before you have the problem as stated above. Have any of you done this?

 

What you do is locate the actuator motor, splice into it an additional feed routed to a convenient area topside where you can connect jumpers

 

I had this problem when one of my actuators broke. My engine cover is huge and thought I wouldn't be able to lift it but I was surprised how easy it was. I was lucky enough that I have a side hatch to remove by hand to give me access to grab the main hatch with my hands. I held it up with a 2x4...what you should bring is a saw so you can cut the 2x4 to the right length so you can hook the actuators back up

 

Thanks

 

I like the switch idea. You could even mount it in the bilge, next to one of the access holes.

 

So I got the hatch open(not easy) and I will post some pictures after I fix the next problem it seems that the “up” relay on the aft EIM is bad. Does anyone know how to remove it? Is it soldered to the board? Here are a few pictures of it. It’s the one on the bottom right. Model # on the EIM is: #1873190, AFT EIM unit. I can't find on online. Any assistance would be apreciated.

 

Brando99-

From one of your ER pics (6th pic overall), it appears you have an access port in the forward seating of the hatch? That wouldn't have helped you in this case, but it's critical when the breakers for the actuators are tripped (in the EIM you're working on). I don't have that port and have wondered how to reach the breakers from the table-base hole.

 

I'm having the issue and having trouble following the conversation here. after winterization, i tried to open the hatch by plugging in to the cigarette lighter at the helm. I might have crossed the polarity initially. Nothing happened and could not open. I corrected the polarity and still nothing. I know about the 2 pins, I pulled the one in the center, but could not pull the one in the aft (hard to pull with the angle). What are my options? how did you get the 2x4 in there and pull from it? is there a fuse could have burned by the cross polarity? if it was, wouldn't that be stopped by the fuse with the adapter. Just trying to figure out the best way to do it.

 

how did you get the 2x4 in there and pull from it? is there a fuse could have burned by the cross polarity? if it was, wouldn't that be stopped by the fuse with the adapter. Just trying to figure out the best way to do it.

The 2x4 is inserted in the hole left by removing the table base (screwed to the cockpit floor/hatch). He then lifted the hatch using an overhead structure (dock) attached to the 2x4. If you don't have something substantial overhead to lift from, this approach won't help you.

If you have an access port in the forward, rear-facing seat storage area, you may be able to reach the breaker on the EIM. My 310 does not have this access port, only the two for accessing the pins at the actuators. Depending on your tools and skillset, adding this port is not a bad idea for this very situation, but I'm not certain I would attempt to do it under your current circumstances.

 

I used. 14 amp fuse and I hear a beab every time I press up. Down works but not up. Wondering if it’s a relay or fuse size issue.

 

I had the original problem. I had to wire a momentary switch for the hatch. I replaced both relays in the EIM but still had the same issue. Only down worked. I had to de-solder the circuit board to remove the relays. Was not too bad but took a while due to the board having a coating on it. I wish I could be more help with your issue.

 

Thanks for sharing the photo.

so I got a bunch of 14 amp fuses, each would lift the hatch by about a 1/2” to an inch and then stop (burnt fuse). Which means I’m using the wrong fuse type. Anyone have the dc power adapter whom can share the fuse amps or part number?

 

The fuse has the markings 32V followed by some marking that I can't decode. The plug itself is a Marinco brand and this is the datasheet for it: https://www.marinco.com/en/~/media/inriver/350468-39344.pdf

It shows the fuse as a 10A AGC but that seems to contradict your experience so far so I'm not sure...unless you're using a 12V-rated fuse?

 

The fuse has the markings 32V followed by some marking that I can't decode. The plug itself is a Marinco brand and this is the datasheet for it: https://www.marinco.com/en/~/media/inriver/350468-39344.pdf

It shows the fuse as a 10A AGC but that seems to contradict your experience so far so I'm not sure...unless you're using a 12V-rated fuse?

Thank You so much as this is exactly what i was looking for. Now i have to find it!!! Are there any writing on the bottom to show the AMP ratings?

The fuse has the markings 32V followed by some marking that I can't decode. The plug itself is a Marinco brand and this is the datasheet for it: https://www.marinco.com/en/~/media/inriver/350468-39344.pdf

It shows the fuse as a 10A AGC but that seems to contradict your experience so far so I'm not sure...unless you're using a 12V-rated fuse?

 

Thank you stehenm27 for checking.

Here is my update. I bought a fuse variety pack and tested and here are the results as I believe it contradicts the data sheet for the marinco.

All AGC Cooper Bussmann fuses
250vac - 10 amp = worked for seconds and then blown (less than 10 amp, only 250vac)
32v - 15 amp = worked for seconds and lifted the hatch slightly and then fuse blown (used 2 fuses)
32v - 20 amp = worked for a few more seconds and opened the hatch up to about 2' and then blew (used 2 fuses)
I had larger fuse size, but the EIM says 20A Left hatch, so i did not want to to try anything larger than 20 amps.

So basically I got up to 2' opening after multiple blown fuses. I squeezed myself through 2' opening of the hatch to connect my batteries. I charged the batteries and was then able to fully open the hatch. On the EIM, I only found "lift hatch" is this for both?.

From my experience, I first need to find the right fuse size, then i need to figure out if the 12v power adapter connection provides power to one or both of the actuators. Does anyone know?

 

...

After careful examination of the opposite end, the 32V fuse in the adapter is marked "BUSS AGC 20A".

Given your recent info, I have a couple of hypotheses on root cause...

• The fuse is blowing because your batteries were entirely disconnected. I don't know if the helm 12V socket connection is intended to provide anything beyond an avenue to trickle charge to dead batteries. I would imagine that the combined actuator load is beyond that circuit's intended load capacity. I have never used this mechanism to attempt this so I am speaking from analyzing the schematic. and general conjecture.
• You have an actuator that is mechanically binding, thus increasing the current load. This, in turn, exceeds the circuit's designed capacity (assuming the circuit is in fact originally designed for this purpose).

For reference, this is the simplified wiring of the relevant components, based on the SR 310 schematics, assuming you don't have modifications of your boat's electrical system:

Hope this helps you figure it out...and most importantly, you get your season going out on the water!