Sanitation Hose Routing

Brian77 · Jan 31, 2013

Hey guys!

Just about time to start getting the boat ready for spring. One of the items on my to-do list is to replace the sanitation hoses on the boat, but I don't think the current hoses are routed properly. Here's a picture looking forward over the port engine. It might not be that clear in the photo, but the sanitation hoses are almost touching the engines...is that how they are supposed to be? If not, does anyone have a picture showing the proper way to route them?

Cleaning the bilge will be next. :grin:

Thanks,

Brian

northern · Jan 31, 2013

I had some plumbing done in the house last April. The city inspecter told me that you need to use two 45 elbows when making a turn on a sewer line. Perhapd you could do the same and gain a little space.
Can you turn the tank 90 degrees counter lock wise and thus have the fittings on the right of the tank.

Lazy Daze · Jan 31, 2013

With a soft hose like we have in most smaller boats (some larger boats use hard pipe), the bends you have there are actually quite good. It is double clamped, which is good - I would just re-orient one of the bottom clamps so they're rotated 180* like the top one.

You might be able to tie them out of the way of the engine a little further if it's bothering you, but if there are no obvious wear marks (from contact) right now, you really don't have to mess with it. I would probably just shore up the middle of the bend (near that plastic strapping) a little better so there's less stress of kicking/snagging the hose and pulling on the tank nipples.

Brian77 · Jan 31, 2013

I was thinking about turning the tank, but I don't know if I have the room. It doesn't look like the hoses should be routed the way they are, and replacing the hoses is a job I don't want to re-do.

-Brian

Brian77 · Jan 31, 2013

Dennis,

The hoses are pulled pretty tight right now and are barely clearing the front of the engine. I'm worried that when I install new hoses, I won't be able to get them pulled back far enough. I've never seen the ER of a similar boat, but the routing just doesn't look like it's correct. I figured now would be the time to install the hoses correctly and ensure I do not have any interference problems.

-Brian

hottoddie · Jan 31, 2013

When installing hoses (not just sanitation) I always have better luck warming them up first so they bend easily. After installed they will stay in position just fine if zip tied in place. You can warm hoses up in the sun, with a hair dryer or heat gun (be careful). Put a little vegetable oil on the fitting and everything will slide together easily. That tank does not look like it would fit if rotated but the bend you have is fine.

Lazy Daze · Jan 31, 2013

If you cut off all the zip ties, it will make repositioning them a bit easier. Then you can pull them a little tighter to the tank. As far as the "bends" go, you've got lots of room to play with till they get too tight. Just don't crank too tightly that you're pulling too hard on the nipples. Other than that, it looks fine. You could redo it, but there's nothing really wrong with the way it is.

Jack380AC · Jan 31, 2013

I don't see any vent filter :wow: Every self respecting captain makes sure his holding tank does not spew fowl orders to his dock neighbors every time the admiral flushes. If you need one, you should check out the good guys at BetterBoat Products on eBay :grin:

JVM225 · Feb 1, 2013

I have the same boat, just a year newer. I don't remember the hoses being that close, but I haven't ever really thought about it. The boat is wrapped for the winter right now, but I have a door in it and usually crawl in there every week or so to do something or check on things. If you can wait until next time I crawl in there I can check it out for you and snap a picture with my phone.

Tritone · Feb 1, 2013

Although I tinker with pretty much everything on my boat, I wouldn't see any reason to touch this. The hoses look in tact and I don't see any damage (heat damage is what you're worrying about, I presume). Pulling them tighter will just stress the tank more. I doubt you'll be able to turn it without a redesign of the hose set up, either. Most of the time Sea Ray had a reason for deciding on placement of things, and sometimes if you look at the stuff you can determine why. I'm not as familiar with the DA layout, but I do remember that is one tight ER. I'm guessing you probably don't have many choices.

Brian77 · Feb 2, 2013

Thanks for the help guys...maybe that is how they are supposed to be but just in case, I would certainly appreciate a picture JVM225.

As for the vent filter...I just learned about them a few months ago, and I will certainly be installing one once the shrink wrap comes off this spring.

JVM225 · Feb 2, 2013

Brian77 said:
Thanks for the help guys...maybe that is how they are supposed to be but just in case, I would certainly appreciate a picture JVM225.

As for the vent filter...I just learned about them a few months ago, and I will certainly be installing one once the shrink wrap comes off this spring.

No problem! If I don't get down there this weekend, I'll get there sometime next week and snap a picture for you.

JVM225 · Feb 2, 2013

Brian,

Mine are routed differently than yours. They exit the tank in the same place, but then go to port.
The lower (or discharge hose) goes to the Y valve for the macerator. I don't know if your boat has a macerator, but if your pump out is on the port side like mine is it would make sense for the hose to go that way.
The intake hose that is connected to the commode is routed from the tank, then to port where it runs behind the tank, passes through the bulkhead, runs after the aft berth, and then goes in to the head.
Maybe Sea Ray changed the routing for the 87 model year, or it is possible that a previous owner replaced the hoses and routed them differently on one of our boats. But, I'm not sure why they would route the discharge hose away from where the pump out is located.
I don't have a genny, so maybe that has something to do with the difference.
Anyway, if you are really worried about the hoses rubbing on an engine pullley you can probably just get a longer length of hose and run them like mine are run.
Here are some pictures. My boat is in Lindenhurst, and you are welcome to come down and see it in person if they don't make the routing clear enough.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m149/JVM225/IMG_0491[IMG]h

[IMG]http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m149/JVM225/IMG_0490_zpsacb63461.jpg

Brian77 · Feb 2, 2013

I actually live over in Lindenhurst.

I don't have a genny either and I do have a macerator....based on other things that were done on my boat (as well as the interference issues I was having), I'm guessing a PO changed the routing on mine.

I will certainly take you up on the offer to look at your boat before I change my hoses out. Out of curiosity, what is the small PVC pipe with the elbow next to the transducer?

-Brian

Boatingnut · Feb 2, 2013

I have 90 degree elbows going into the tank. I have way less room than that. Our's is a "full service" head, and I have never had a problem. Find some elbows and be done with it!

JVM225 · Feb 3, 2013

Brian77 said:
I actually live over in Lindenhurst. I don't have a genny either and I do have a macerator....based on other things that were done on my boat (as well as the interference issues I was having), I'm guessing a PO changed the routing on mine.

I will certainly take you up on the offer to look at your boat before I change my hoses out. Out of curiosity, what is the small PVC pipe with the elbow next to the transducer?

-Brian

Good question!

I've always thought it was a backup drain for the AC/Heat pan. The condensation for the AC/Heat drains in to a space below the aft berth. The same space that the forward bilge pump, AC strainer, Fresh Water Pump, and Fresh Water filter is located.
It looks to me like this PVC pipe is a back up to that drain system that will let the condensation drain directly in to the bilge if the primary system gets clogged so you want have water all over the carpet in the cabin.
I've meant to blow some air through there when I've got my portable compressor down at the boat for winterizing, but always seem to forget about it.
I remember making a mental note last year while the motors were out of the boat for replacement to bring the compressor down to check it out, but I forgot about it once again.
That's one of the problems with not having the boat where I live. Every time I forget a tool or something I have to wait until the next trip. Luckily my Uncle lives real close to the boat and his stuff comes in handy, but I really do need to start to write things down.

My property is on East Riviera. Let me know when you want to check out the routing. You are more than welcome to crawl through the door in the shrinkwrap with me, or if you want to wait until you don't have to squeeze through, I will probably be uncovering the boat shortly after St. Patrick's day if the weather forecast is decent.

Where do you keep your boat?

Brian77 · Feb 4, 2013

I had a feeling that pipe might be related to the A/C system...it's always bothered me that the condensation accumulates in the bilge under the aft berth. As you know, the bilge pump never gets all the water out and as a result there's always standing water inside the boat. Looking at your pictures, I'm wondering how difficult it would be to re-route the condensation line into the main bilge and eliminate the standing water inside the boat. I'll add it to the list.

During the season I'm at the AYC, but I have the boat pulled and brought to my father in-laws office in Babylon during the winter. I certainly know East Riviera...let me know the next time you're heading down to the boat and i'll meet you there. It's nice to have someone with the same boat right around the corner.

Thanks again!

Sanitation Hose Routing

Brian77

Attachments

northern

Lazy Daze

Brian77

Brian77

hottoddie

Lazy Daze

Jack380AC

JVM225

Tritone

Brian77

JVM225

JVM225

Brian77

Boatingnut

JVM225

Brian77

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities