took CSR advice, kinda 250DA, some ???s

Wee_Isle · Oct 5, 2009

I posted in the cruiser section thought I'd try the generals out. I got it out for a Lake Trial
I took CSR advice and went with a 89 250DA/w 5.7l alpha I

1) I got it up to 3500 rpms is that max?
2) The volts stayed around 13-14 volts while cruising, that normal?
At really low speeds no wake, the engine surged a little....
3)could the surge be from a failing alternator or battery issues?
A piece has broken off the lower outdive, where the bolts from the plastic plaining fin go through the outdive housing.
4)Four bolts that connect the plastic plaining fin : : are now connected with two flat pieces of metal :==: to stabalize it...is that alright? or should I get it welded back on?

Lazy Daze · Oct 5, 2009

Well, many things can cause the RPM & surge issue - engine problems, bad fuel, bad prop, dirty bottom... suggest you take a good look at physical things, first. Then try to narrow it down. Check your engine manual (or go to Merc's website), but your WOT RPM is somewhere in the 4500 range.

Did you trim up?

Use the search tool on this site - there's a lot of info out there that you should read up on. There's a bunch of threads about rpm/surging issues, too. You'll have lot's of reading material!

Volts are normal - just like they are in your car.

Kinda hard to picture what you are saying about the fin - but I think you're saying a piece of the cavitation plate broke off between the holes? It might be alright - post an actual picture.

Quint4 · Oct 5, 2009

Sounds like he may have an aftermarket hydrofoil?

Lazy Daze · Oct 5, 2009

Quint4 said:
Sounds like he may have an aftermarket hydrofoil?

Yeah, I just can't picture what he means by "broken". Maybe a chunk came out of the cav plate between the foil's bolt holes and now there is a piece of metal being used to bridge the gap?:huh:

Wee_Isle · Oct 5, 2009

Lazy Daze said:
a chunk came out of the cav plate between the foil's bolt holes and now there is a piece of metal being used to bridge the gap?:huh:

I guess it could be an aftermarket hydrofoil on the cavitation plate, just couldn't think of the name.

your right a piece on the right side of the lower outboard,cavitation plate broke off where the screws went down through the hydrofoil into the cavitation plate and he used bigger washers to grab whats left of the plate.

Wee_Isle · Oct 5, 2009

where the #41 is that small plate on the right broke off

BonBini · Oct 5, 2009

A) rpms. I'm asuming you've got a 260 merc.. First)Your tach acuracy.. Sec)The four barrel needs to be opening up and delivering acurate fuel. No flooding or sustained stumbling.. Third)you need to be firing off all eight holes. Listen to your engines note.. Fourth)look at how much load you've got on your engine via drag and prop.

B) two of our boating freinds use those plastic planing fins and the do seem to help some. But the are very stressfull on the outdrives regular planing fin. ..Ron

BonBini · Oct 5, 2009

That little zinc plate fin will just help you tune out a little slow speed prop walk. The zinc material is a sacraficial anoid. ...Ron

Sundancer · Oct 5, 2009

Have you purchased this boat then??

Wee_Isle · Oct 5, 2009

I'll get it next weekend i gave him a deposit, now I gotta get a slip for around 190-240 for it. The kids and everyone enjoyed it despite this lil hicup it still drove and plained well. we cruised at 3500 rpms a while and the temp went a lil over 145 degrees but cooled down when I lowered rpms to 3000...

Lazy Daze · Oct 5, 2009

Wee_Isle said:
where the #41 is that small plate on the right broke off

No worries. You'll be fine. You might lose some performance, but nothing to an extent that would account for your other problems.

Nehalennia · Oct 5, 2009

If you're not over 3500 a closer look and at least a tune up are in order.

Wee_Isle · Oct 5, 2009

I was at 3500 but after an hour cruising at that speed, for the first time this year I didn't want to push it. because the temp had me worried when it climbed over the mid point on the gauge, but cooled again when I slowed. It still had more in it I'm sure. The biggest concern I had was the idle surge and the plate on the lower outdrive

Nehalennia · Oct 5, 2009

Your temp should stay pretty steady around 170. Replace your impeller if you don't know how long that's been since it's been replaced and get that tune up.

comsnark · Oct 5, 2009

Can I be blunt for a moment? This does not sound like a successful seatrial.

Sure. . it may have been a successful JOY RIDE, and convinced you that you like this style of boat. . .but you definately have some engine issues that need to be resolved.

1) Not getting proper engine RPM demonstrates some sort of problem. To get proper RPM, pretty much everything needs to be in good condition, which is why it is a nice metric for running a seatrial. (i.e. pass/fail).

Once you demonstate an RPM problem, any number of things can cause it. A few have been addressed here. You mentioned cavitation plate damage. If this is creating excessive drag. . it will slow the boat down. So will bad props or a fouled bottom.

2) Thermostat should hold a ROCK SOLID temperature. Once warm, the engine temperature should hold constant. Drive impeller is a normal wear item, as noted above, and can cause this problem. Thermostat is a not as common to replace. .. but it is an easy fix and a good place to start troubleshooting.

I am not saying that this is a bad deal or anything. . .the other two big factors are boat cost and physical condition. Assuming the boat is well priced and the boat is in (otherwise) good condition, then the engine mechanical issues can be resolved with appropriate amounts of care (and money).

Probably a few simple things will get this boat running like a top.

Sundancer · Oct 5, 2009

Comsnark beat me to it, but if you don't OWN this boat, make sure all of the items are fixed BEFORE you take ownership! I would removed the "wing" on the outdrive first of all. That is just drag happening, especially if it's broken and put together with bubble gum and bailing wire. If that's how he fixed THAT item, did he maintain the rest of the boat in the same fashion? HAVE A SURVEY DONE by a qualified surveyor. He will list all of the things that he finds and I wouldn't buy it until that list is complete.

The temp going slightly over 145 means that it probably needs a new impellar. I'd still give her the juice and see what she does. Getting 3,500 rpms indicates something bad is wrong, either in the carb, electrical, prop or something else. There are many boats out there that run well and owners are dying to get rid of them! Look around and I think you'll find one that is similar and runs better. If you elect to buy this boat, be sure to negotiate the cost of fixing items before you write the final check. I'd have HIM pay for them and I wouldn't write the check until they can be confirmed, i.e. rpms at 4,800, no temp spikes and everything else running as it should.

Good luck with your decision and keep us posted!

Wee_Isle · Oct 8, 2009

thanks for all your advice on the boat, last weekend I gave him my deposit, Because a free dual axle trailer and a perfect boat inticed me after the lake trial.
He has since replaced/taken apart the outdrive seals and impeller and told me it will be ready Saturday for another test/purchase run.

So tell me what I should look for this time.

skolbe · Oct 8, 2009

Hire a surveyor or start saving cash for future potential repairs.

comsnark · Oct 8, 2009

Please go onto the SeaRay website and look up the "prop chart" for this boat. It will list stated max RPM for given prop/engine combinations.

You want to make sure the boat;

(1) Will reach the stated W.O.T. RPM. You want to run W.O.T. for a few minutes, but not abuse the engine by running at that point for a 1/2 hour.

(2) Engine (once warm) temperature and oil pressure should be normal and steady at both idle and at W.O.T. Increase in temperature at idle, or increase at W.O.T. is indicative of a "problem". Problems should be evident within 5 minutes.

(3) At W.O.T. . . .the boat engine can expect to be loud, but otherwise the boat should not be shaking itself apart.

(4) Will you need survey to obtain insurance? (The answer is usually "yes"). If so, you want to have the surveyor with you for the sea trial. In fact. . he will run the show. A good survey guy will spend an hour or two going over the boat with a fine tooth comb at the dock - testing every switch. He will also want to see the boat out of the water (looking for corrosion and soft spots) Then, during seatrial, he will run the boat through the paces. There is a difference between "hull survey" and "mechanical survey". The insurance usually requires "hull survey". The hull survey guy won't trouble shoot the engine . . basically, what my guy did was LOOK at the engine for obvious issues, and he shot riser temps with a thermal gun while the boat was run W.O.T.

tobnpr · Oct 8, 2009

I'll beat the dead horse one more time...
DON'T buy the boat until the engine turns up to 4800 rpms without overheating...
You're asking for problems if you blow this issue off...don't say we didn't tell you so...

took CSR advice, kinda 250DA, some ???s

Wee_Isle

Lazy Daze

Quint4

Lazy Daze

Wee_Isle

Wee_Isle

BonBini

BonBini

Sundancer

Wee_Isle

Lazy Daze

Nehalennia

Wee_Isle

Nehalennia

comsnark

Sundancer

Wee_Isle

skolbe

comsnark

tobnpr

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