Official 370 Sundancer thread

roadkingh1 · May 26, 2009

Does anyone have an intelligence answer to my question about the tanks on my 97' 370 searay? Well.............it does not matter. I am going to post the schematic drawings of the gas tanks for the 96'-98' models, in case any one wants to put a fuel managment system on their boat and they want to calculate the tank volume in case they want to have precise readings with there fuel management system hook to a nema 2000 backbone network system.

Hwillcockson · Jun 1, 2009

Hello guys - I found this thread and thought I’d finally chime in with a question…

I have a ’97 370DA that I bought a couple of years back and have done some work in the past year – new exhaust manifolds, replace heat exchanger, etc. My next job is to replace the XX radar system with a new(er) RL80CRC+ system. (This system came off as a package from another boat). My question is: do any of you have experience pulling the new cable through the radar arch between the open array and dashboard? Any advice would be much appreciated.

SCFinch · Jun 1, 2009

Just thought I would try to get some info quick - boat is getting pulled on Tuesday for prop / shaft work. Running the stock (I think) 18x21 - Max RPM is about 4000, cruises well at 3300 - 3500 at 25 - 28 mph (sorry did not convert to knots...). I have yet to have the props pulled and checked but they "looked" ok with no dings etc. Would anyone change pitch/cup on the prop or just have them checked for accuracy? Stock 7.4's with Carbs / 800 hours. I think target WOT is 4500.

J Levine · Jun 2, 2009

Scott,

I am running your exact setup and get very similar results at both cruise and WOT. You should get the wheels propscanned while they are off.

RubberDuckeeToo2 · Jun 2, 2009

Hwillcockson said:
Hello guys - I found this thread and thought I’d finally chime in with a question…

I have a ’97 370DA that I bought a couple of years back and have done some work in the past year – new exhaust manifolds, replace heat exchanger, etc. My next job is to replace the XX radar system with a new(er) RL80CRC+ system. (This system came off as a package from another boat). My question is: do any of you have experience pulling the new cable through the radar arch between the open array and dashboard? Any advice would be much appreciated.

I did this exact switch two years ago when I first got my boat. I had thought that I could use the old cable and just run the old scanner with the new head system. No go.

It took me the better part of two weekends in run the cable and do the cleanup. The biggest issue was getting the cable to run behind the storage box to the right of helm. It seem the cable was attached to strain reliefs in there and I had to get the storage box out to access the old cable to pull it out and run the new cable through to the arch.

Needless to say, it was a frustrating and sweaty exercise. To do it right, you really need to figure out a good way to get that box out maybe by removing the helm seat base.

Gene

Sea Ray Mark · Jun 2, 2009

SCFinch said:
Just thought I would try to get some info quick - boat is getting pulled on Tuesday for prop / shaft work. Running the stock (I think) 18x21 - Max RPM is about 4000, cruises well at 3300 - 3500 at 25 - 28 mph (sorry did not convert to knots...). I have yet to have the props pulled and checked but they "looked" ok with no dings etc. Would anyone change pitch/cup on the prop or just have them checked for accuracy? Stock 7.4's with Carbs / 800 hours. I think target WOT is 4500.

As long as your engines are healthy, running good, and the bottom is clean the prop guys will usually want to pitch the props so that the engines reach the proper WOT numbers. Your cruising speed and rpm's sound good but the engines should be able to hit closer to 4500 rpm. Mine top out at about 4600. Mark

Hwillcockson · Jun 2, 2009

RubberDuckeeToo2 said:
I did this exact switch two years ago when I first got my boat. I had thought that I could use the old cable and just run the old scanner with the new head system. No go.

It took me the better part of two weekends in run the cable and do the cleanup. The biggest issue was getting the cable to run behind the storage box to the right of helm. It seem the cable was attached to strain reliefs in there and I had to get the storage box out to access the old cable to pull it out and run the new cable through to the arch.

Needless to say, it was a frustrating and sweaty exercise. To do it right, you really need to figure out a good way to get that box out maybe by removing the helm seat base.

Gene

Thanks for the info Gene… much appreciated. I’ll take a look at removing the storage box next to the helm. I usually like to do these projects myself if at all possible, although I may get a quote from the marina to have them do the install and weigh the “sweat-factor”.

BTW… I took a look at your website and found my boat “About Time”… it’s actually in two locations: 1584677 and 1597243. Good job on the pictures.

Hopefully I can get the new radar installed before the annual trip to Block Island In July. I’ll keep you guys posted.

Mike

RubberDuckeeToo2 · Jun 3, 2009

Hwillcockson said:
TBTW… I took a look at your website and found my boat “About Time”… it’s actually in two locations: 1584677 and 1597243. Good job on the pictures.

Hopefully I can get the new radar installed before the annual trip to Block Island In July. I’ll keep you guys posted.

Thanks for the comment on the site. Identifying any boat is helpful. My plans were to expand the site to allow owners to maintain pages on their own boats, sort of a Facebook for 370 Sundancers. But I had to put the project aside due to the pressures from work with this sucky economy.

You mentioned Block, so I have to guess you are in my area. I keep my boat in Westbrook, CT. Where do you do most of your boating?

Gene

370Dancer · Jun 3, 2009

cruiser said:
In the salon I used a Sharp 22 lcd/dvd..
I made a panel to fill in the hole exactly out of 1/2" marine ply, painted it flat black.
I took 2 2x4's cut slightly larger then the opening. On the bottom I laid the 2x4 flat and through bolted it from below using the same holes that the screws were in that held the previous TV, I just made the holes a lil larger.
On the top I did a similar thing, instead I turned the piece upright and screwed it into 2 cleats that I epoxied in place earlier followed by screws that I carefully screwed in from the back so I didn't go through the front finished mica..
Then I just brought a low profile mount from Omni and thru bolted it and used fender washers on the back..drilled a hole for the cables,lag bolted it to the 2x4's and done...
It came out great..the TV almost covered the whole panel, it only left about 1/2 exposed on the bottom which I made sure was sanded and painted smooth.
I mounted it fixed so I'll never have to worry about it breaking loose in rougher seas..
Pictures to follow soon..

I would like to see pics of this and the mount you are using. How did you mount the TV to the wall mount, and then mount the board to your cleats with no access from behind?
I can envision getting to the bottom lag bolts, but not the top ones if the TV covers the opening.

cruiser · Jun 3, 2009

I'll try to post the pictures tonight. I only have photos of it finished, it didn't dawn on me to take the pictures while in the process.
The mount I used is from Omni Mount(do a google) model # QM100F cost was around $55.
It's 2 fixed tapered fixed plates that slide into each other then lock from below using to set screws. It's a very solid mount.
I used this mount so I can remove the Tv whenever needed and not have to undo the panel the is lagged into place.
The only issue with this type of mounting you can't use the space behind the TV because it's blocked in.. But in heavy seas I didn't want to worry about strapping the tv in place..

cruiser · Jun 3, 2009

Sorry just to clarify...The 1 plate I thru bolted to the panel, the other of course to the TV..Then you can button everything up before you slide the Tv onto the mount, 2 screws and done..

cruiser · Jun 4, 2009

Here are 2 pictures of the install..You can see how flush the omni-mount gets the Tv to the panel..

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt328/mskisea/DSC00730.jpg
http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt328/mskisea/DSC00729.jpg

Two Peas · Jun 11, 2009

My dock neighbour has a 94 370da with 7.4's. On docking tonight, his starboard engine was blowing out lots of black smoke, and it was stalling unless he hit the throttle. Sounds like maybe a tune-up is needed. Any other thoughts?

Jack · Jun 21, 2009

I am about to upgrade the stereo and speakers. I want to disconnect the speakers that are in the rear of the cockpit as they are always playing in your ears. Am thinking about mounting speakers either on the bimini supports or the arch, would rather not drill holes if possible. Was wondering what equipment is compatible for replacing the original equipment, how replacement speakers have been mounted, and how to remove the existing stereo? Any help would be appreciated.

Hampton · Jun 21, 2009

Two Peas said:
My dock neighbour has a 94 370da with 7.4's. On docking tonight, his starboard engine was blowing out lots of black smoke, and it was stalling unless he hit the throttle. Sounds like maybe a tune-up is needed. Any other thoughts?

It sounds like it's running rich. My 5.7 did that. Just needed a thermostat, believe it or not.

Sea Ray Mark · Jun 22, 2009

Jack said:
I am about to upgrade the stereo and speakers. I want to disconnect the speakers that are in the rear of the cockpit as they are always playing in your ears. Am thinking about mounting speakers either on the bimini supports or the arch, would rather not drill holes if possible. Was wondering what equipment is compatible for replacing the original equipment, how replacement speakers have been mounted, and how to remove the existing stereo? Any help would be appreciated.

Jack, I had the same problem with my speakers being right next to your head when sitting in the cockpit. I disconnected the two arch speakers but left them in place. I extended the speaker wires and installed two Jensen speakers under the seats facing aft. I bought the type that have their own enclosure box so the only holes I had to make where a few screws holes to mount them. It worked out pretty good. Mark

Jack · Jun 22, 2009

Mark

How did you route the wiring out of the arch for the speakers? Also, do you or anyone else know how to remove the head unit in the salon? Thanks!

Sea Ray Mark · Jun 22, 2009

Jack said:
Mark

How did you route the wiring out of the arch for the speakers? Also, do you or anyone else know how to remove the head unit in the salon? Thanks!

Jack, if I remember correctly there was already a hole cut to get from the arch into the gunwale areas. Your head unit should come out just like a head unit in a car. You have to slide a little flat tool into a slot behind the face plate to release the unit from its frame. Check to see if the tool is with the paper work that came with the boat, that's were mine is. Mark

SummerDeis · Jun 22, 2009

Greetings all

Hopfully everyone is having a great season!

Problem / Question.. 1996 370 DA - seems that my water tank (fresh water) is leaking and I am finding NO way of getting to it. Its under the bed in the forward cabin and seems that the platform for the bed is GLUED down.. Any suggestions!!!

Thanks

Ron

Sea Ray Mark · Jun 22, 2009

Ron, are you 100% sure it's the water tank? It seems a bit unlikely for that tank to fail. How did you determine that's what it is? Mark

Official 370 Sundancer thread

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