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Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

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#3,521 ·
ttmott said:
Just an FYI - High Idle is a verification the governor is functional. High Idle is advancing the throttles fully in neutral to verify both the engine achieves the High Idle RPM specification and that the governor is limiting the RPM. The high idle specification is on the data tag on the engine. You won't hurt the engine, but it is a bit of a pucker especially if you are stand next to it.

The Turbo - On the compressor side move the shaft perpendicular to the length of the shaft and verify the clearance to the compressor housing with a feeler gauge; it should move to some extent. Do that measurement in 90 degree increments. If I remember correctly (you'll need to verify) that minimum clearance to the housing is 0.010 Inch. There should be zero movement in the shaft in and out. Look for excessive oil inside of the compressor and compressor housing. That indicates either excessive engine blow-by, malfunctioning crankcase vapor oil separation, or leaking seal on the turbo shaft.

FYI there are no wastegates, blow-off valves, or any other boost control for these engines. They'll make as much power as the turbocharger can provide boost. If anything is out of spec the fuel gets reduced/cut.
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not being a smartass just clarifying for future folks stumbling through this thread - the 3116 has no wastegate but the 3126 is an externally actuated / internally wastegated turbo.
 
#3,522 ·
Riptide III said:
Update. It looks like it is the injector on the #3 cylinder is bad. I will replace all of them next week.
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how’d you guys identify it? I wish there was an easy way to do a cutout test but we ended up taking a mechanics stethoscope to guess which of mine were going
 
#3,523 ·
Strecker25 said:
how’d you guys identify it? I wish there was an easy way to do a cutout test but we ended up taking a mechanics stethoscope to guess which of mine were going
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Simple! Remove the “valve” cover there is a small rod about 3/4” long protruding from the base of he injector horizontally. One at a time, with the engine idling, use a screw driver to push it in. If the injector is working it will sound like someone hitting the engine with a hammer. If the injector is bad there will be no change but the engine will start to smoke.
 
#3,525 ·
Riptide III said:
Simple! Remove the “valve” cover there is a small rod about 3/4” long protruding from the base of he injector horizontally. One at a time, with the engine idling, use a screw driver to push it in. If the injector is working it will sound like someone hitting the engine with a hammer. If the injector is bad there will be no change but the engine will start to smoke.
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that’s great to know, didn’t realize they had that. We think mine was actually leaking fuel while closed versus not firing at all, so I’m not sure that would have helped, but still important for troubleshooting.
 
#3,526 ·
Strecker25 said:
that’s great to know, didn’t realize they had that. We think mine was actually leaking fuel while closed versus not firing at all, so I’m not sure that would have helped, but still important for troubleshooting.
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Im sure it still would. I believe mine was also. It pools up on the piston then smokes for a few minutes before it warms up. It isnt that the injectors stop spraying. The problem is they squirt not spray/atomize. They need to atomize to burn completely.
 
#3,530 ·
My starboard engine temp gauge at the helm is reading 200° and on the engine it reads 190°. I've replaced the gauge and it still reads the same. I'm thinking about pulling the wires off at engine sending unit and cleaning that connection up. I'll reattach with some dielectric grease. Anybody have any other suggestions?

PS: the port engine died twice today, it would turn over but not fire. I've already been to O'Reilly's and bought a new relay.
 
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#3,531 ·
I LOVE dielectric grease and also keep SEVERAL spare Bosch relays on board.

BEST !

RWS
 
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#3,532 ·
Maybe A Dancer said:
I LOVE dielectric grease and also keep SEVERAL spare Bosch relays on board.

BEST !

RWS
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I have spares on board, but it was just easier to run to O'Reilly's...
 
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#3,533 ·
The Bill Collector said:
My starboard engine temp gauge at the helm is reading 200° and on the engine it reads 190°. I've replaced the gauge and it still reads the same. I'm thinking about pulling the wires off at engine sending unit and cleaning that connection up. I'll reattach with some dielectric grease. Anybody have any other suggestions?

PS: the port engine died twice today, it would turn over but not fire. I've already been to O'Reilly's and bought a new relay.
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I had a similar issue My problem turned out to be a dirty connection. Good luck. I know it’s frustrating.
 
#3,534 · (Edited)
Do y
The Bill Collector said:
My starboard engine temp gauge at the helm is reading 200° and on the engine it reads 190°. I've replaced the gauge and it still reads the same. I'm thinking about pulling the wires off at engine sending unit and cleaning that connection up. I'll reattach with some dielectric grease. Anybody have any other suggestions?

PS: the port engine died twice today, it would turn over but not fire. I've already been to O'Reilly's and bought a new relay.
Click to expand...
Do you have the 195* thermostats? If so, mine read about 203* at the dash (confirmed with a IR temp gun), and lower on the engine. It bothers my OCD brain, but really, I'm looking for a trend where the running temps are creeping up. That in conjunction with the EGT and boost gauges I can tell I need to clean the bottom, or service the cooling system/HEX's. I've never had the Sea Ray monitor give me an overheat warning, but that is what I'm trying to avoid. Best I can tell it activates a 215*
 
#3,535 ·
Running 195 degree thermostats here in SW Florida.

No issues (yet)

BEST !

RWS
 
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#3,536 ·
dtfeld said:
Do y

I've never had the Sea Ray monitor give me an overheat warning, but that is what I'm trying to avoid. Best I can tell it activates a 215*
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that’s sort of crappy, 215. It comes on just in time to say you just cooked your engine!
 
#3,537 ·
Image
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I got 16 years out of the old relay...
 
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#3,538 ·
Riptide III said:
that’s sort of crappy, 215. It comes on just in time to say you just cooked your engine!
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I installed the Borel alarms on the exhausts, generator too. In theory, it should alarm before the systems monitor does. It hasn't and hope it never does! Repurposed the hole in dash from Clarion remote that was no longer used.
 
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