Is there a dedicated forum for the 40 sedan bridge
40 sedan bridge forum
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No, I don't think that you have to remove anything. You should be able to reach back there if I remember right. The fridge does not have to come out. That photo was from another project. I'm not 100% certain what that seacock goes to. It's factory, but odd that it's in such an obscure location behind the fridge. Depending on what year your boat is, the side of your hull will be balsa, so seal that properly before you install your thru hull. Mine is a 98 and is. Measure 27 times, drill once. Start with a tiny pilot hull to verify location before you bring in the big iron. One of the best upgrades that we have done. Sending galley sink water / whatever thru a bilge pump in the sump just for it to end up in the lake / ocean anyway is ridiculous
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- Location
- Space Coast Florida
Air conditioning raw water discharge.
- Location
- Rock Hall, MD. Chesapeake bay
Drafter I hope that is not a pic of after you just fell in the water.
My year 2000 I think has much more wood frame work under the sink as I was on the boat yesterday and dont have the clear view you show. I took a picture but this site is not now allowing me to upload it. I get server error message. Will upload it if they ever fix it. The framework seems to have no structural or functional purpose.
My year 2000 I think has much more wood frame work under the sink as I was on the boat yesterday and dont have the clear view you show. I took a picture but this site is not now allowing me to upload it. I get server error message. Will upload it if they ever fix it. The framework seems to have no structural or functional purpose.
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262 Posts
No, took it as a joke to make some friends cringe that I was drilling that huge of a hole into the side of my boat!
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5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
That seacock is the valve to turn off the salon ac discharge. It would be used if you wanted to route all the water to the other ac unit, for whatever reason. There is an access plate inside the cabinet under the stove so you can get at it if needed. There is an identical one in the starboard closet in the master stateroom for the other ac unit.
- Location
- Rock Hall, MD. Chesapeake bay
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5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
Mine's the same. I didn't have any problem with the vertical getting in the way. I think I did everything reaching in with one arm but it's been a while so I'm not sure.
- Location
- Rock Hall, MD. Chesapeake bay
My arms are long but I don't think I could ever reach that hose clamp. You gonna be on the Chesapeake this year?....lol, I'll watch and mix the drinks.
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191 Posts
- Location
- Glen Burnie, MD
I have the same vertical support on mine too.
I was advised to put a small P trap in the bottom of the hose to allow water to lay and not have a direct flight into the sink from insects.
I felt it was easy to do this and could always shorten it if needed.
BEST upgrade I did internally because I LOATHED the petri dish of growth from any food that was washed in the galley going into the sump.
- Location
- Rock Hall, MD. Chesapeake bay
My next pita "pain in the access " project.
I would like to replace the duckbill valves in both vacuum generators. As you can see there is no room to slide the unit out. I have already removed the bunk support framework. After two bourbons I have thought of two battle plans.
1...remove the 2x4 that has the wire run attached in the pic to give 2 more inches of width, which may allow me to lay on my side and reach the fittings after removing the black intake hose going into the top. Then hope I can get back out.
2...cut a large access panel in the side wall out of the area from the floor up to where the bottom of the mattress board is. No one would ever see it and I could both see and reach the work area easier. Will make sure there are no wires in the way.
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Questions. Is there a better way? Can the entire system be removed without having to remove the galley floor?
I would like to replace the duckbill valves in both vacuum generators. As you can see there is no room to slide the unit out. I have already removed the bunk support framework. After two bourbons I have thought of two battle plans.
1...remove the 2x4 that has the wire run attached in the pic to give 2 more inches of width, which may allow me to lay on my side and reach the fittings after removing the black intake hose going into the top. Then hope I can get back out.
2...cut a large access panel in the side wall out of the area from the floor up to where the bottom of the mattress board is. No one would ever see it and I could both see and reach the work area easier. Will make sure there are no wires in the way.
Questions. Is there a better way? Can the entire system be removed without having to remove the galley floor?
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83 Posts
Yes they are in a pretty shitty spot i was able to remove the pump from the tank and able to rebuild pump on the bench not saying it was easy but it was removed without cutting anything.
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5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
I've done this many times. I reach everything just kneeling over the vertical bunk frame and head/shoulders arms into the hole. I had No need to cut away or remove stuff. Somewhere way back in this thread I posted the step by step procedure I use. But finding particular posts is like finding a needle in a haystack. But the quick version is remove both hoses and push them out of the way. Unscrew the big plastic nut. Remove two visible bolts holding assembly to top of tank (7/16 box wrench). Loosen the two more hidden bolts. Pull the pump assembly out and change the duckbills on a bench. When you reinstall the two hard to reach bolts will be a challenge. I don't even put the forward one back in. I just bolt it down with only three bolts. Works just fine. The other inward bolt is fiddly to get back in and the loose washer is a hassle. Superglue the washer to the bolt head or replace it with a flange bolt. Then get it started with the pump assembly still out (you could use this same technique on the fourth bolt that I omit). Then when you put the pump assemble back in a slide it's mounting tab(s) under the bolt(s). Then put the two easy bolts back in, screw in the big white nut and put the hoses back on.
I just did my galley sink recently , I was able to reach the hull without removing anything fixed. Not comfortable to reach in there but I drilled a pilot hole from the inside , left the drill in so I could find the hole on the outside of the hull, then drilled away from the outside. I cut the drain pipe long enough for me to have some room to manoeuvre it out to the hole, but it was old and brittle so it leaked. It was a pain to fix the leak, with silicone sealant and plumbers tape using my fingers with gloves. The thru hull is Marelon. The fact I left the pipe a bit long means the pipe has a shallow U in it, which I initially thought was annoying as gunk will get left in the U, but wasn’t going to muck around with it any more. The saving grace there is I have noticed if the wind is from the stern and the generator is on, diesel fumes can creep in through the kitchen power vent, so maybe I have inadvertently stopped that risk also occurring via the drain pipe. Getting the pipe onto the thru hull was the hardest bit, tight fit, i didn’t want to stress the thru hull too much . I heated the pipe a little with a hair dryer and used lithium grease for lubricant. As many have said, it’s the best mod you can do, worth the effort.
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83 Posts
The bunk frame is removable it will make that procedure a little easier
Not me that's my neighbor.
Sweet boat!
After fighting w the sump box float for a 3rd time I
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went a slightly different way, put in an auto sense pump and set it on the lower "shelf" of the box.
So far so good. Ran the shower and dumped a full sink and it was able to keep up.
(yes I put the lid back on backwards)
Removing the float switch I had leaks from the screw holes....fail.
went a slightly different way, put in an auto sense pump and set it on the lower "shelf" of the box.
So far so good. Ran the shower and dumped a full sink and it was able to keep up.
(yes I put the lid back on backwards)
Removing the float switch I had leaks from the screw holes....fail.
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5,597 Posts
- Location
- Lady's Island, SC
I just left the old hose. I disconnected it at the sump and capped the pipe out of the sump. I can't imagine trying to remove that long run of hose. I'm sure it has tie downs to the floor that aren't reachable.
- Location
- Taxachusetts
On the hunt for a 400 .... and I have seen a couple where the stbd side has a counter instead of a couch. Who would want this? I can't understand it.
I have the counter. Not having the sofa reduces the sitting capacity of course, but the storage cabinets underneath the counter are fantastic. Also the counter is really useful , where a sofa would be I can stand and make espresso for instance. And generally it’s used way more than I would a sofa. I rarely have more than 3 people on the boat so we find the seating in the salon is perfectly adequate, in fact the dinette seats are perhaps the most popular. Then there is seating in the cockpit which I have made bigger , and on the flybridge. But if you intend to regularly have lots of people on the boat the sofa might be something you would prefer.
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